Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
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Restaurant with Namakokabe Walls
Location: Hiranoya Restaurant, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 16:10 June 6, 2023
Shimoda, a city located in Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan, is renowned for its distinctive architectural style known as namako-kabe (海鼠壁), or "sea-slug wall." This unique technique is prominently displayed in numerous traditional structures throughout the city, featuring captivating black walls adorned with a raised white diamond pattern. This innovative method of architecture was employed to enhance the durability of buildings against rain, wind, and more critically as means to enhance fire resistance.
The namako-kabe architectural technique involves the intersection of white plaster and black flat tiles. It begins with a foundation of bamboo, upon which layers of clay are applied. Diagonally layered flat tiles are then mounted, and the gaps between them are filled with piled-up plaster. This method received its name, namako-kabe, due to the resemblance of the raised plaster to a sea cucumber or sea slug.
The diamond-like pattern, known as shihanbari (四半貼り), emerged as the most efficient design for shedding water and soon became widely adopted.
Namako-kabe walls gained popularity among samurai during the early Edo period (1603-1868). Eventually, namako-kabe became increasingly utilized in ordinary houses of the wealthier merchant class, especially as a means of fireproofing storehouses.
Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
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Classic Negative film simulation
Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 1600 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2.0
Classic Negative film simulation
Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 2000 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2.0
Astia/Soft film simulation
168-Year-Old Japanese-Style Inn
Location: Matsumoto Ryokan, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture
Timestamp: 16:14 June 6, 2023
Shimoda city in Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan, has a rich history related to Japan's opening to the West. It is renowned for its unique architectural style called namako-kabe (海鼠壁)or “sea-slug” or “sea-cucumber” wall, which can be seen on numerous buildings such as houses, shops, inns, cafes, and art galleries. This design makes heavy use of clay materials to provide resilience to strong winds, typhoons, and the increased risk of fire during the dry winter months.
These three shots focus on the Matsumoto Ryokan–a traditional Japanese-style inn. The ryokan was constructed during the reign of Emperor Komei-tenno, approximately 168 years ago, specifically in the 2nd year of Ansei (November 1854 to March 1860).
Over the years, the building has undergone various renovations to modernize the structure including the use of glass windows to replace shoji (障子/lightweight sliding doors made of wooden framework covered with thin paper that allows light to pass through); use of doors on hinges to replace koshido (格子戸/sliding fine lattice doors that have shoji panels that were inserted in the winter to block out the cold breeze and removed in the summer for cooling).
The third image provides a close-up view of a glazed window on the door. It features a crest, likely belonging to the Matsumoto family, and a telephone number without an area code, indicating that most calls originated from the local area. On the right side of the door, the characters 松本旅館 (Matsumoto Ryokan) can be seen, although some of the characters have become less decipherable to me since they seem to be older characters or heavily stylized in such a way I can no longer read them.
Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
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Authentic Japanese Eel Cuisine at Ogawa-ya: A Timeless Gem
Location: Ogawa-ya, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 16:20 on June 6, 2023
Ogawa-ya, an old-fashioned Japanese-Style eel restaurant, stands a block or two from the Port of Shimoda in Shizuoka Prefecture. Ogawa-ya offers two delectable variations of eel dishes: kabayaki (蒲焼), succulent grilled eel, and Yanagawa (柳川), tender steamed eel.
As a photographer, my eyes were drawn to the intricately carved stone lantern, complementing the rustic beauty of the tiled roof, traditional wooden slats, vintage sliding fine-lattice door, and a charming bamboo fence wrapped in black rope around lush green bushes.
Dining at Ogawa-ya can strain the budget. The prices, averaging around 3,000 to 4,000 yen ($20.78 to $27.70 USD) per person for eel dishes, were relatively high. However, the restaurant is highly regarded by the local community and regular visitors from Tokyo, making it a sought-after destination for an authentic culinary experience in Shimoda.
Ogawa-ya prides itself on serving eel at its peak flavor and umami. They operate on a reservation-only basis and will call you approximately ten minutes before your dish is ready. This minimizes waiting time and ensures you can fully appreciate the exquisite taste of the eel. The restaurant is conveniently located within a ten-minute reach from within this tiny port city, guaranteeing a timely and enjoyable dining experience.
In addition to its charming exterior, Ogawa-ya embodies the essence of a classic family-run Japanese establishment, with a rich heritage that may have been passed down through generations.
As I relished the nostalgic ambiance, I can’t help but wish for the continued success of this family business, hoping it thrives for generations to come as a haven for eel aficionados and lovers of traditional Japanese cuisine.
Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
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Astia/Soft film simulation
Old Red Snapper Restaurant
Location: Amimoto Kinmesen Shouryū, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 16:20 on June 6, 2023
Amimoto Kinmesen Shouryu was a quintessential Japanese-style seafood restaurant renowned for its red snapper dishes.
In this shot, my eyes are drawn to the faded wooden sign perched in the upper-right corner. Once vibrant and radiant, it has now succumbed to the passage of time, its hues of bright natural tones fading such that we can no longer discern the characters etched upon it.
The centerpiece of this establishment is its large red snapper situated on the right and an even larger wooden snapper on the left that once displayed the menu and prices.
Situated a mere 30 meters (approximately 98 ft) from the bustling port, Amimoto Kinmesen Shouryu held a distinct advantage in procuring the freshest catch for their dishes.
Regrettably, the doors of this once-thriving establishment have been permanently shuttered. While details surrounding its closure remain unclear, it comes as no surprise that the ever-declining demographics of Japan may have played a role. The escalating financial burdens and shifting priorities have made it increasingly challenging for Japan’s youth to embark on the path of marriage and parenthood. Seeking better opportunities, they flock to metropolitan areas, leaving behind their rural hometowns and forsaking the family businesses that once thrived.
As I reflect upon the demise of this restaurant and so many family-run businesses like it, I feel a sense of loss. Nevertheless, I am grateful for the opportunity I had nearly 40 years ago to experience Shimoda’s vibrant mood when prosperity abounded, and the spirit of a bright future infused most every corner of Japan.
Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
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Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
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Astia/Soft film simulation
Unique Fishing Boat and Docked Fishing Fleet
Location: Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 16:22 on June 6, 2023
Most fishing vessels in port on this Wednesday afternoon share similar designs and paint schemes. However, amidst these familiar ships, one stands out with its aggressive-looking hull design.
Several larger vessels of a fishing fleet are docked in deeper waters away from the docks closer to the fisheries located on the waterfront of Shimoda city.
I couldn't help but anticipate names like Jaws-maru, Shark-maru, or even Killer-maru for this particular ship. Surprisingly, its name is あくあ丸 (Akua-maru)!
Phonetically, あくあ (Akua) sounds like "Aqua," although typically, such a word would be written in katakana as アクア instead of hiragana あくあ.
Based on this, my assumption is that the ship's name is Aqua-maru, where "maru" (丸) is a common designation for seagoing vessels.
The use of "maru" (means "circle”) in the naming of seagoing craft dates back to the 16th century. There are several possible explanations for this convention.
Of those, my favorite explanation is that in the past few centuries, the “-maru" suffix was exclusively used for non-warships. It served as a good-luck naming convention, symbolizing the ship's safe departure from port, successful navigation of the seas, and return to its home port—a complete circle without harm.
With that in mind, the name of this shark-like boat possibly means "Aqua-maru," indicating the skipper's desire to navigate the waters and return home safely. Alternatively, perhaps the skipper is a devoted fan of Aquaman comics and drew inspiration from that source!🤣
Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
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Coin-Laundry & Coin Shower near the Docks
Location: Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 16:26 on June 6, 2023
Located directly across from Shimoda Port's docks, this coin laundry immediately caught my attention. What struck me most was how time had weathered its east-facing storefront and signage. The relentless exposure to the morning and afternoon sun had noticeably faded its colors.
However, it wasn't just the sun that had taken its toll over the years. The corrosive effects of airborne saltwater had also left their imprint, resulting in visible rust on certain parts of the shop.
Many of the smaller fishing boats moored to the docks are chartered for recreational fishing, accommodating up to three guests for a day of angling. Depending on the season and desired catch, rates for these charters range from ¥20,000 to ¥40,000 per day.
After spending a day fishing under the scorching sun, this coin laundry must be a welcome relief for fishermen before heading back home to Tokyo or their resort hotel. Without the coin laundry, I can only imagine the smell of opening your laundry bag of “fishing clothes” after returning home from a day of being exposed to ocean waves and the scent of the day’s catch.
Moreover, the shop offers heated showers, allowing fishermen to clean up and feel refreshed after angling under the strong sun and being soaked in sea spray. The convenience of this shop must surely be a welcome respite after a fun day at sea.
Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 2000 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2.0
Classic Negative film simulation
Health Goods & Ice Store: Hattori Ice
Location: Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 16:43 on June 6, 2023
The primary focus of the store is the production of ice, which is crucial for preserving the freshness of the morning's catch on seagoing fishing vessels. The catch is sorted into containers and loaded with fresh ice before being shipped by truck to auction houses, distribution centers, and eventually reaching restaurants and supermarkets.
The store front has a nostalgic charm reminiscent of dagashiya (駄菓子屋/mom-and-pop candy stores in residential neighborhoods), where school children gather on their way home from school to buy cheap snacks while chatting with each other and the elderly owner, often an elderly lady, who runs the shop from the front of her house.
The shop also sells a variety of drinks, including ice cream, as well as some unique beverages such as milk protein drink (雪印カルパワー), Q’sai kale juice (キューサイ青汁), a nutritional drink made from freshwater algae (保健食品クロレラミンCVE), and even offers propane delivery (灯油) for home heating.
During the 80s and 90s, Q'sai kale juice (Kyusai aojiru) gained immense popularity in the Japanese market, largely due to a memorable TV commercial. The ad prominently featured Nobuo Yana, a renowned film actor and former baseball player, who portrayed the role of a yakuza member (often known for playing villainous characters in movies). Yana's catchphrase, "まずい！もう一杯" (Horrible! I'll have another one), became synonymous with the product. This TV commercial evokes nostalgic memories from my younger years and the Showa Era.
Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/55 sec. at ƒ/2.0
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Sakeshita Community Center & Lounge/Cafe
Location: Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 16:58 on June 6, 2023
Constructed in the year 1857, this building showcases Shimoda’s distinctive architectural blend with stone walls adorning its lower half and namako-kabe (海鼠壁) walls gracing its upper portion. Repurposed as a community center for the local neighborhood association, it serves as a meeting place for discussions on topics such as garbage pick-up regulations, festival timetables, and other essential topics that directly impact the local community.
Beyond its role as a community center, the building flourishes as a delightful café offering an array of beverages and local seafood delicacies. The café also houses a curated collection of art books to enjoy.
Since the sign on the door frame says that the shop is making preparations, my border collie and I ended up taking a short rest in front of the shop before continuing on our exploration.
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
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Kari-jima Island and Inubashiri-jima Island
Location: Shimoda Port, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 17:30 on June 6, 2023
In this shot, the serene beauty of Shimoda Bay unfolds before us. On the left, gracefully nestled amidst the waters, is Inubashiri-jima Island (犬走島), while on the right stands the enchanting Kari-jima Island (雁島), adorned by the revered Iwamuro-jinja Shrine (岩室神社).
These two islands serve as perfect gateways to immerse oneself in the bountiful nature and sea-life of Shimoda Bay. Adored by anglers and nature enthusiasts alike, both Inubashiri-jima and Kari-jima boast a popularity for their serenity and captivating seascape.
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
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Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
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Ferry Azalea Moored at Shimoda Port
Location: Shimoda Port, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 17:46 on June 6, 2023
Join the Ferry Azalea on an exciting journey from Shimoda Port to four of the seven-plus enchanting islands off the coast of Japan’s Izu Peninsula: To-shima (利島), Nii-jjima (新島), Shikine-jima (式根島), and Kouzu-shima (神津島).
These four islands offer a range of activities to suit every traveler's taste. From camping under the starry skies to exhilarating motorcycle tours, from peaceful fishing excursions to thrilling snorkeling adventures, and from riding the waves while surfing to enjoying pet-friendly outings with your family, there is something for everyone to enjoy.
The Ferry Azalea provides convenient transportation to these picturesque destinations. Prices for non-commercial vehicles vary from 10,180 yen to 20,350 yen, with an additional fuel charge. Departures take place daily at 9:30 a.m., ensuring you have ample time to explore and make the most of your island experience. On the day of your return, the ferry arrives back at Shimoda Port at 16:30.
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