2022-12-20

Hakone

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
28 mm ISO 100 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/4.5

Historical Teahouse
(Hakone, Kanagawa Pref., Japan)

According to a 2008 interview of the proprietor, Tatsuo Yamamoto, the Amazake-chaya Teahouse was established in the early 1600s during the Edo Period (1603 to 1867) to provide relief and refreshments to travelers on the ancient Tokaido Road, a cobblestone “highway” that linked the imperial court in Kyoto with seat of the Shogunate in Edo (modern-day Tokyo). 

The interview with Mr. Yamamoto revealed that he had hopes that his son, Satoshi, would take over for him if and when the time was right. Since that interview in 2008, I can happily confirm that Mr. Yamamoto’s son, Satoshi, has indeed succeeded his father in operating the teahouse by the same family for 13 generations!

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
40 mm ISO 100 for 1/13 sec. at ƒ/11

400-Year-Old Teahouse
(Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan)

Amazake-chaya Teahouse has been serving travelers its famous amazake drink for most of its history dating back to the early 1600s.

Their menu is very simple and includes mochi (glutinous rice that is steamed and pounded into a paste) that is grilled over charcoals and coated in isobe soy sauce, uguisu sweet young soy bean powder, or uguisu mixed with black sesame seeds.

The shop’s namesake drink, amazake, is a traditional fermented rice drink. The teahouse has been using the same recipe for 13 generations where no yeast is used, thus resulting in a naturally sweet drink that has no alcohol. 

The drink has a texture closer to rice porridge rather than sake, is loaded with lots of nutrients, and is often served or sold at temples and shrines during winter festivals.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/4 sec. at ƒ/2.0
Astia/Soft film simulation

Sunken Hearth at Teahouse
(Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan)

The Amazake-chaya Teahouse has retained its charm dating back to the early 1600s. The entrance still has the hard earthen floor where wooden tables and chairs are made available for guests.

Farther back are the more traditional woven straw tatami mats where guests sit on the mats and enjoy their drinks and food on knee-high tables.

The centerpiece of the interior is the irori (open sunken hearth), which has a unique figure-8 shape (typical irori are square or rectangular) surrounded by beautiful hardwood flooring.

In this shot, you can also see the jizaikagi—a contraption that includes a pothook attached to a rope that runs through a bamboo pole and extends up to the ceiling timber directly over the irori. The height of the pothook can be changed to adjust the temperature of the food or liquid in the pot.

Irori were common in the main living room of traditional Japanese homes where wood, charcoal, or even coal was burned. Upper-class homes would have had an additional irori in the tea ceremony room where smokeless charcoal was used. 

Irori also provided homes with some lighting at night, heat for the main room, and could be used to dry wet laundry, cook food, boil water, and to dry fish and fruit. 

Smoke from the irori, specifically the tar in the smoke, was also an essential component for preserving the structural integrity of thatched-roof buildings. While the heat from the irori drew moisture from the building’s timbers and thatched roof to prevent rot and mold, the tar from the smoke would coat and permeate the wooden beams and underside of the thatched roof helping to further prevent mold and rot, and was especially effective at repelling pests, and added an extra layer of waterproofing against rain and snow. 

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
28 mm ISO 100 for 1/200 sec. at ƒ/11

Ropeway Gondola Over Volcanic Vents
(Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan)

Owakudani Valley, a popular tourist site in the Hakone mountains, is occasionally closed for months at a time when there is unusual volcanic activity in the hot-spring resort area located a couple hours southwest of Tokyo.

The Hakone Ropeway carries visitors directly over the volcanic crater that still has active vents spewing hydrogen sulfide and steam, and geothermal hot springs.

Each gondola on the ropeway can carry up to 18 passengers, and on a clear day, passengers can take in panoramic views of Lake Ashi and Mt. Fuji. 

        Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
105 mm ISO 200 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/11

Southeastern Slope of Mt. Fuji

Although Owakudani Valley in Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan, is more famous for its volcanic activity of vents spewing hydrogen sulfide and steam, the peak overlooking the valley offers fantastic views of Mt. Fuji on a clear day.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
53 mm ISO 100 for 13.0 sec. at ƒ/20
 
Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
53 mm ISO 100 for 13.0 sec. at ƒ/20
 
Lake Ashi and Mt. Fuji

The Hakone Taikanzan Observatory in Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture, is on the list of Japan’s Top 100 Scenic Spots—a list that was originally compiled by two major newspapers in 1927.

After several visits to this site in 2022, I was finally able to catch a clear shot of Mt. Fuji towering over Lake Ashinoko in the foreground.

Prior to the pandemic, tour buses filled the nearby parking lot and the local city bus made regular stops at the Taikanzan bus stop. I have no idea if and when services will resume, but if you have a driver’s license,  driving to the peak is half the fun of visiting this peak, especially if you take the Hakone Turnpike from Odawara. 

Note that many online English articles of this mountain peak refer to “大観山” as Daikanzan, which is also how some Japanese visitors will assume the kanji is read. However, the correct name is Taikanzan, which you can see on the sign at the nearby bus stop, and is also the reading used by material provided by both the Odakyu train line and the Izu-Hakone bus timetable.

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Pix4Japan by Iketani, Daisei is licensed under a
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Permissions beyond the scope of this license are available at Pix4Japan.

2022-12-07

Hiratsuka Hachimangu

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
28 mm ISO 100 for 10 sec. at ƒ/8

Shrine Crest Crane

On both of the huge paper lanterns between the street and the torii gate are beautiful motifs of cranes, which is the symbol used on the shrine’s crest and is found on several structures throughout Hiratsuka Hachimangu Shrine (Hiratsuka, Japan).

At the time of the shrine’s founding in 381 CE, the shrine’s original name was Tsurumineyama Hachimangu (鶴峯山八幡宮) Shrine. The “Tsuru / 鶴” part of the name means “crane” in Japanese. 

Although the name of the shrine changed over the years, the symbol of the crane as the shrine's crest has continued for more than 1,600 years.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
28 mm ISO 100 for 10 sec. at ƒ/14

Torii Gate at Shrine

The first of two torii gates at Hiratsuka Hachimangu Shrine in the coastal town of Hiratsuka, located about 60 km (38 mi) southwest of Tokyo.

Naturally, there are a pair of komainu (狛犬), or so-called “lion-dogs” on both sides of the torii gate to protect the shrine from evil.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
28 mm ISO 100 for 25 sec. at ƒ/20

Chochin Paper Lanterns
(Hiratsuka Hachimangu Shrine, Hiratsuka, Japan)

The sidewalk leading to the shrine is lined with a stone fence that has four rows of lanterns with the names of individuals, shops, and companies who made donations to the shrine for its maintenance and upkeep.

Unlike a typical signboard on the side of a highway, I actually appreciate seeing the names of sponsors of local shrines and seeing first-hand how the funds are used to preserve the local culture, traditional customs, festivals, and used to pay the artisan craftsmen who preserve the buildings, structures, lanterns, torii gates, koi fish ponds, and gardens.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
53 mm ISO 100 for 6 sec. at ƒ/10

Temizuya Water Purification at Hiratsuka Hachimangu Shrine
(Hiratsuka-shi, Kanagawa-ken, Japan)

When entering shrine grounds, you need to “purify” yourself before approaching the main worship hall (haiden) of the shrine complex that is open to the public. 

As you approach the shrine, there is a small-roofed structure (temizuya) on the left that has a huge stone basin with running water and bamboo ladles (hishaku) resting right above the basin.

After dipping the ladle into the basin, you pour the water over each hand so that the “dirty” water drips down onto the stones placed around the base to catch such water, thus keeping the water in the basin fresh and clean. After this purification ritual, you can then approach the shrine’s haiden worship hall.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
28 mm ISO 100 for 8 sec. at ƒ/10

Three Subordinate Shrines
(Hiratsuka Hachimangu Shrine, Kanagawa Pref., Japan)

Shinmeisha Shrine (神明社)

The small shrine on the left enshrines three deities of success and prosperity in business.

Wakamiya Shrine (若宮社)

The slightly larger shrine in the center enshrines a guardian deity for parenting and children.

Suwa Shrine (諏訪社)

The small shrine on the right enshrines a deity of good luck and traffic safety.

All three shrines have an ancient style of Shinto shrine architecture with forked finials called chigi (千木) that extend out and above the roofline.

An old document from the year 804 references the prescribed dimensions of the finials, which have both a structural and decorative purpose.

Open-ended slots at the ends of the finials indicate that a female deity is enshrined, where a vertical slot indicates a male deity being enshrined.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
28 mm ISO 100 for 8 sec. at ƒ/10

Hiratsuka Hachimangu Shrine
(Hiratsuka, Kanagawa Pref., Japan)

Viewing the shrine at this angle helps illustrate the use of metal fittings that are placed on the ends of rafters that extend out to the edge of the eaves and at the base of pillars. 

Such fittings are often made of iron, copper, or gilt bronze, and are not only decorative (飾金具/kazarikanagu), but also help to protect the ends of structural elements from weathering (小口金物/koguchikanagu).

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
28 mm ISO 100 for 5 sec. at ƒ/10

Offertory Box of Main Hall
(Hiratsuka Hachimangu Shrine, Hiratsuka, Japan)

The wooden box at the top of the steps is an offertory box (saisenbako) for making offerings to the enshrined deity. Offerings were originally made in the form of rice and gradually changed to coins in the 15th and 16th centuries.

I especially like the shrine’s crest of a crane on the front of the saisenbako. The courtyard lights make the gilt bronze fittings shine more than what you’d normally experience in the middle of the afternoon.

1. Large shamoji (rice paddle or rice scoop): a traditional symbol of the bond between mothers and wives as the shamoji gets passed down as an heirloom symbolizing the family duties inherited in the marriage. The enshrined deity blesses parents and children in their daily lives, and whereas every home has a rice scoop, this rice scoop is “blessed” with prayers or slogans to be passed onto worshipers to the shrine (from left to right).

Real shamoji are naturally used to “meshi wo toru” (飯を取る) "to  get some rice," which sounds like “meshi toru” (召し取る) "to get a woman for marriage." So there is a symbolic pun for the shamoji as well for young men hoping to find a bride.

Writings on the shamoji are as follows  reading right to left:

商売繁昌: Prosperous Business

天下泰平: World Peace

一国一社の八幡宮: Literal translation is: Hachimangu of One Shrine of One Country. Roughly translated as the one and only holy site (Hachimangu) of all the shrines in all of the (Soushu) Region (which is modern Kanagawa Prefecture). Between 724 and 749 CE, Emperor Shomu visited this site and recited a Lotus Sutra at the shrine declaring it to be the only sacred place (a Hachimangu) in the whole of the Soushu Region (now Kanagawa Prefecture).

鎮地大神: Chinji Okami = the name given to the shrine by Emperor Suiko (between 593 to 628 CE), which means “God for the Peaceful Land.”

平塚八幡宮: Hiratsuka Hachimangu (current name of shrine as of 1978)

五穀豊穣:Bountiful Harvest

除災招福: Warding Off Evil 

2. The straw rope is called “shimenawa,” the tassles are just decorative, and the white rice paper are called “shide.”

The shimenawa (sacred straw/hemp rope) on a tree, rock, or strung up between two poles, rocks, trees, etc. indicated the border between realm of the spirit and humans and is used to ward off evil spirits from holy places or holy objects.

The shide are just one component of any device used in purification (shimenawa rope, ornamental belt worn by sumo wrestlers, etc.), but are most often suspended from sacred border ropes (shimenawa) to demarcate a sacred or a ritual space. In such cases, they symbolize sacred borders.

3. The shimenawa (sacred straw/hemp rope) is the border between the realm of the spirit and humans and wards off evil spirits. 

This shrine belongs to a group of 6 Hachimangu shrines that belonged to one domain under were split up from one main shrine hundreds of years ago so that commoners could more easily access the enshrined deities for healthy families, healthy children, and bountiful harvests.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
80 mm ISO 100 for 30 sec. at ƒ/22

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 
34 mm ISO 100 for 25 sec. at ƒ/14

Reflections of Torii Gate in Koi Pond
(Hiratsuka, Kanagawa Pref., Japan)

Among the many subordinate shrines found throughout the Hiratsuka Hachimangu Shrine complex, the Benzaiten Shrine is probably the smallest of all. The shrine is on a small island in a pond of koi fish and ducks. The exact age of the pond is not clear, but documents from the Edo Period (between 1603 and 1867) make reference to the pond as a sacred spot. 

This shrine was gifted to the main shrine complex in 2011, and is popular for visitors wishing for good luck or fortune in matters relating to finances, entertainment, or personal beauty.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
34 mm ISO 100 for 20 sec. at ƒ/14

Hiratsuka Hachimangu Shrine

Located in the coastal city of Hiratuksa along the Shonan coastline in Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan, this Shinto shrine is one of the six major shrines built for the old Sagami province, which is now Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan.

Annual events include the Hamaori Festival, the Bonbori Festival, Shichi-go-san, Cherry Blossom Festival, and more. The courtyards are said to be especially beautiful when the cherry blossoms are out in spring and the roses are in bloom in early autumn. 

Originally built under the direction of Emperor Nintoku in the year 380, this shrine was regarded as the protector of land for all of Sagami (modern-day Kanagawa).

The deities enshrined in the main shrine, and numerous subordinate shrines draw visitors wishing to improve company finances, get married, have safe a childbirth, raise healthy children, for physical beauty, for success in studies, for success in the entertainment industry, for good luck in life, for longevity in battle, for warding off evil, for a bountiful harvest, and more.

The shrine affords super easy to access with a flat approach from Hiratsuka Station on the JR Tokaido Main Line. If you have pets or a small family and prefer to drive, there are several coin parking lots in the neighborhood surrounding the shrine grounds including a huge underground parking garage behind the shrine.

Unlike Tokyo, parking is really cheap. I only paid 300 yen for parking during my photo shoot which was almost 6 hours long.

Driving from the direction of Shizuoka or Odawara, or from the direction of Tokyo or Yokohama, all you have to do is get on National Route #1 until you reach Hiratsuka. The highway runs right next to the shrine and if you check out the pictures in my blog there is no way you can miss the shrine! It is the only shrine on Route 1 between Tokyo and Odawara with a huge torii gate and a high wall of chochin lanterns that stretch along the highway.

Visit my blog for about 12 other photos, access links, references in both English and Japanese, and historical details of what I could find on this nice little shrine that has a lot to offer visitors.

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Pix4Japan by Iketani, Daisei is licensed under a
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Permissions beyond the scope of this license are available at Pix4Japan.