2023-06-06

Perry Road, Shizuoka Pref.


Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 160 for 1/550 sec. at ƒ/2.8
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Mini Mt. Fuji in Shimoda

Location: Shimoda Park, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 14:08, June 6, 2023

From atop one of the many lookout observation points in Shimoda Park, visitors are treated to a panoramic view of the entire port town of Shimoda City. The vista stretches out before you, capturing the essence of this picturesque coastal destination. However, one particular feature immediately captures the attention—a peculiar hill standing proudly at the edge of the town.

Known affectionately by the locals as Shimoda Fuji or Hongo Fuji, this unique landmark rises to an height of 191 meters. What makes it truly remarkable is that it is not a typical hill formed by layers of earth, but rather a singular piece of rock. Its sheer presence commands attention, with everyone commenting on how similar to Mt. Fuji the rock appears.

Standing at this lookout point, you are gifted with a perspective that enables you to appreciate the full extent of Shimoda City's charm. The juxtaposition of the town's energy against the serene backdrop of the surrounding hills and mountains creates a sense of tranquility. It is a testament to the enduring spirit of the locals and the enduring power of nature.

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Canal along the Historic “Perry Road” used by Commodore Perry in 1854.

Step into the enchanting world of Japan's rich history as we delve into the fascinating tale of U.S. Navy Commodore Perry and his arrival on the legendary "Black Ships." Legend has it that Perry himself walked along the pathway that winds alongside this canal, leading to the Ryosenji Temple. It was within these hallowed grounds that the momentous Treaty of Peace and Amity between the U.S. Government and the Japanese Tokugawa shogunate was inked back in 1854.

Adorned with elegant willow trees and time-worn stone pavements, you'll find yourself surrounded by a vintage ambiance created by the rows of Western-style buildings and ancient houses from the Meiji and Taisho periods. It's no wonder that this area has become a beloved tourist hotspot, drawing visitors with its eclectic mix of antique shops and charming cafes.

Prepare to be captivated by the unique architectural style known as Namako-Kabe, famously associated with the region of Izu. These striking walls feature a captivating black hue adorned with a raised white diamond pattern, a testament to the early ingenuity of weatherproofing techniques. As you stroll alongside the canal, you'll be treated to a fusion of Namako homes and shops alongside traditional wooden structures, creating an architectural feast for the eyes. Architecture enthusiasts, be sure to keep your camera at the ready, for every step promises a perfect photo opportunity.

Immerse yourself in the captivating charm of Shimoda. Let its rich past and architectural wonders transport you to a time long gone, and embrace the opportunity to witness history firsthand.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 1250 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/11
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Historic Landmark with Thirty-Pound Carronade

During the mid-19th century, the Tokugawa shogunate of Japan grew increasingly concerned about foreign warships trespassing into Japanese territorial waters. They feared that these foreign powers might attempt to forcefully end Japan's self-imposed policy of national isolation or even invade the country. To counter this threat, the shogunate commanded various feudal domains to construct coastal fortifications equipped with modern coastal artillery.

To that end, carronades, a specific type of cannon characterized by its short range, muzzle-loading mechanism, and smoothbore design, were mounted at vantage points along the Izu coastline. 

Originating from the Caron Company in Scotland, the carronade gained prominence during the Napoleonic Wars and was frequently employed on British and French naval vessels. However, as the 19th century progressed, advancements in firearms technology led to the introduction of breech-loading rifled guns boasting superior accuracy, range, and firing speed. Consequently, the use of carronades gradually waned and fell into obscurity within a span of less than a century.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 160 for 1/280 sec. at ƒ/2.2
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Manhole Cover of City of Shimoda

Location: Perry Road, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 15:23 June 6, 2023

One of the sites where US Naval Commodore Perry initially landed in Japan, demanding an end to Japan's extensive period of isolation spanning over 200 years, and advocating for trade with the Western world through the use of gunboat diplomacy, has been immortalized in the history books. The city of Shimoda is the  location where the Treaty of Peace and Amity was signed in 1854 between the US Government and the Japanese Tokugawa shogunate.

Within this city, there exists many unique manhole covers that pay homage to the iconic "Black Ships." These legendary vessels earned their name from the Japanese people themselves, owing to their distinctive black hulls and the billowing black smoke emitted by their coal-fired steam engines.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 2500 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/11
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Historical Japanese House along River

Location: Former Sawamura Residence, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 15:24 June 6, 2023

Shimoda, a city known for its unique architectural style called Namako-Kabe, showcases several traditional structures, including the distinctive house with captivating black walls adorned by a raised white diamond pattern. These walls serve as a testament to the innovative techniques employed to provide structures  with a greater degree of weatherproofing and fire resistance.

One such well-know structure is the Former Sawamura Residence, originally constructed in 1915 by Kyuemon Sawamura, who served as Shimoda's mayor before the war. In 1985, the building was officially recognized as a historic landmark of Shimoda City,  and in 2008, it was generously donated to the city.

Following thorough seismic reinforcement, the Former Sawamura Residence has been open to the public since 2012. It now serves as a gallery and town information facility, welcoming visitors to explore Shimoda’s rich history and cultural significance.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/50 sec. at ƒ/11
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Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
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40-Year-Old Cafe “Pepe”

Location: Pepe, Perry Road, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 15:25 June 6, 2023

Pepe, established in 1969 as a subsidiary of Daiden Shoten, an oshibori rental business (oshibori being cold or heated wet cotton hand cloths used for hand washing before eating or drinking), traces its roots back to the vision of the president's wife who manages the operations including nurturing the beautiful bougainvillea vine growing on the side of the building. The store takes its name from the president's favorite movie, “Pepe,” a 1960 American musical comedy film.

In the past, Shimoda thrived with a bustling economy and a vibrant geisha quarter. However, over time, the town gradually lost its former allure and now relies more heavily on local and international tourism, along with a few small businesses and the local fishing industry.

Pepe's menu boasts several popular dishes such as curry rice, spaghetti, coffee, and ice cream, among others. Remarkably, these menu items and recipes have remained unchanged for the past 54 years, a testament to the enduring popularity of this cafe.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 2500 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/11
Astia Soft film simulation

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 2500 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/11
Astia Soft film simulation

Sogabo Art Gallery and Cafe

Location: Sogabo, Perry Road, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 15:25 June 6, 2023

Nestled alongside the Perry Road canal, the Sogabo Art Gallery stands as one of the most charming and beloved cafes in the area. This traditional Japanese coffee house offers authentic whisked matcha lattes. Step inside to find a blend of Japanese tradition with tatami mats adorning the floors reminiscent of a traditional Japanese teahouse. With both indoor and outdoor spaces, Sogabo invites visitors to revel in the warmth and seasonal aromas of summer, spring, and autumn.

What sets this café apart is its location within an old wooden Japanese home, which now serves as a gallery, art studio, and workshop. The owner, Hisao Takezawa, collaborates with local potters to craft exquisite bowls and plates, each adorned with her elegant Japanese brushstrokes. Takezawa's creative journey began in 1984 at Shimoda City's Kusugabo. From 1997 to 1999, she honed her skills in Japanese calligraphy at the Kanazawa College of Art. Since 2000, she has operated her own atelier at the house and opens the house to the public on weekends as an art gallery where her sumi ink and painted works find a permanent home.

Immerse yourself in the rich ambiance of this traditional Japanese house turned gallery, studio, and workshop, brimming with captivating local art, pottery, and a genuine sense of traditional Japan. To enhance the experience further, Sogabo also serves seasonal local dishes, making it the perfect spot to rejuvenate yourself while exploring the streets of Shimoda.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
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Hydrangeas and Weeping Willows along Historic Perry Road

Location: Perry Road, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 15:33 June 6, 2023

Nestled alongside Perry Road, in this charming district of Shimoda in Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan, a scenic canal flows peacefully, accompanied by vibrant hydrangea blossoms. This beautiful sight provides a striking contrast to the overcast skies that often accompany the country's rainy season.

This photo captures the vintage architecture of the Sogabo Art Gallery on the left and the Page One Italian restaurant on the right, perfectly complementing the picturesque surroundings.

As we meander along the riverside path, we are greeted not only by the hydrangeas but also by the graceful presence of Weeping Willow trees. These trees serve as remnants from a time when Japan first embraced Western influences.

The rainy season invites us to take a leisurely stroll from Ryosenji Temple to the Sawamura Residence, eventually leading us to Shimoda Park. This park is home to the Hydrangea Festival, where over 300 hydrangea bushes are in full bloom.

The pathway on which we walk holds historical significance, as it is said that Commodore Matthew C. Perry of the U.S. Navy traversed this very route upon arriving in Japan aboard the "Black Ships" at the end of the Edo Period (1603-1868).

Adorned with lush greenery and stone pavements, this path showcases a delightful blend of Western-style buildings and old houses from the Meiji (1868-1912) and Taisho (1912-1926) periods. The area has become a beloved tourist destination, offering a plethora of antique shops and charming cafes, all contributing to its distinctive and exotic atmosphere.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/11
Provia/Standard film simulation

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/120 sec. at ƒ/11
Provia/Standard film simulation

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/120 sec. at ƒ/11
Provia/Standard film simulation

Historical Perry Road along Serene Canal & Yanagibashi Bridge

Location: Perry Road, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 15:34 June 6, 2023

The canal running alongside Perry Road in the port town of Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan, is adorned with vibrant hydrangeas and weeping willows. Fortunately, this peaceful canal still retains its original stonework, preserving its charm instead of being completely replaced with tasteless concrete.

I am captivated by the lush greenery, unique streetlamps, and the array of shops, cafes, restaurants, and antique stores that line Perry Road.

"Perry Road" is now a street that holds great historical significance as it was the path traveled by Commodore Matthew C. Perry of the U.S. Navy. Perry embarked on this very route upon his arrival in Japan aboard the renowned "Black Ships" during the final years of the Edo Period (1603-1868). His destination was Ryosenji Temple, where negotiations took place between Perry and Japanese officials, ultimately leading to the signing of the Japan-US treaty.

Walking along Perry Road not only offers a captivating natural spectacle but also provides a glimpse into the rich historical tapestry of Shimoda. As you stroll amidst the blooming hydrangeas and elegant weeping willows, take a moment to reflect on the transformative events that unfolded along this very path. It serves as a testament to the enduring connections between nations and the profound impact that a single route can have in shaping history.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 2500 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/11
Velvia/Vivid film simulation

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter 
ISO 2000 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/11
Velvia/Vivid film simulation

Temple Gate on Perry Road

Location: Ryosenji Temple, Shimoda, Shizuoko Pref., Japan
Timestamp: 15:46 June 6, 2023

The splendid 山門 (sanmon gate) is built at the entrance of the temple grounds of Ryosenji Temple, which was founded in 1635 under the direction of Tokugawa Ieyasu. 

The sanmon gate in this shot was built in the Yakuimon-style with a tiled roof, and follows a unique architectural design. Yakuimon gates are characterized by their lack of pillars under the ridge of the gabled gate. Instead, they are supported by four pillars at each of the gate's corners. This style of gate has been in use since the late 14th or early 15th century.

In the center, under the roof of the sanmon gate, there is a plaque displaying the characters 法順山 (Houjunzan). These characters inform us of the prefix to the temple's name, indicating that it originated from a mountain called Houjun. As a result, the "full name" of the temple is Houjunzan-Ryosenji.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/25 sec. at ƒ/11
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Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/30 sec. at ƒ/11
Classic Negative film simulation

Lion-Dog Carvings on Temple Gate

Location: Ryosenji Temple, Shimoda, Shizuoko Pref., Japan
Timestamp: 15:49 June 6, 2023

Ryosenji Temple, established in 1635 under the direction of Tokugawa Ieyasu--the founder and first shōgun of the Tokugawa Shogunate, which ruled Japan from 1603 until 1868. 

Access to the temple grounds is graced with a sanmon gate (山門) at the entrance. Carved into the upper section of the sanmon gate are two striking figures known as komainu (狛犬), often referred to as lion-dogs in English. 

These magnificent guardian sculptures are skillfully carved into the upper portions of the gate's primary columns on the left and right sides.

Komainu have long been revered for their ability to ward off malevolent spirits, which is why they are commonly found near the entrances of shrines and temples.

During the early Heian Period (794 to 1185), the left figure was known as shishi (獅子), resembling a fierce lion with its mouth agape. The right figure, called komainu (狛犬) at the time, depicted a vigilant dog with its mouth closed.

Over time, the term komainu began encompassing both figures, and their physical appearances became almost indistinguishable, save for the variation in their mouth positions.

The open-mouthed lion represents the first letter of the Sanskrit alphabet, pronounced as "a." In contrast, the closed-mouthed dog symbolizes the last letter of the Sanskrit alphabet, pronounced as "un." Thus, the open and closed mouths of these sculptures symbolize "the beginning and the end of all things" or the concepts of inhalation and exhalation, respectively.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/240 sec. at ƒ/2.0
Astia/Soft film simulation

Temple Courtyard

Location: Ryosenji Temple, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture
Timestamp: 16:06 June 6, 2023

The courtyard of Ryosenji Temple embodies the quintessential charm of a small community Buddhist temple, complete with a nearby cemetery and a lush courtyard adorned with vibrant foliage, elegant stone monuments, and stone lanterns.

In this particular photograph, the essence of the rainy season is captured through the glistening foliage and a pot overflowing with blooming hydrangeas.

Toro (灯籠, 灯篭, 灯楼), which are traditional Japanese lanterns crafted from metal, stone, or wood, grace the temple courtyard. The stone lantern depicted here appears to be relatively new with a slightly more modern design.

Dai-doro (台灯籠), also known as platform lanterns, are bronze or stone lanterns frequently found in gardens and along the pathways of shrines or temples. Typically resting upon a stone pedestal, these lanterns are sometimes referred to as ishi-doro (石灯籠), a more general term encompassing stone lanterns.



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