Pix4Japan

2024-10-15

Ashinoko and Fujisan

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Still Waters, Moving Clouds: Fuji’s Late Afternoon Reveal

雲間に現れた富士山：芦ノ湖での静寂なひととき

All day, Mt. Fuji remained hidden, shrouded in thick clouds as if she were reluctant to reveal herself. Morning and afternoon passed without even a glimpse of the iconic peak during my photowalk.

As I walked back to my car along the southeastern shore, ready to head home, Mt. Fuji finally emerged from behind the clouds—a fleeting but magical moment. Determined not to leave without capturing the famous peak, I quickly set up my gear.

Late afternoon on a partly cloudy day is not my usual choice for landscape photography, especially in such a bustling spot. The lake was alive with hundreds of tourists boarding ships traveling between its southern and northern shores, making it challenging to find a moment of stillness.

After waiting for over an hour, I finally managed to capture a tranquil scene of Lake Ashi (Ashinoko), free of tourist watercraft crisscrossing the view, just before the peak disappeared once more behind the shifting clouds.

Using a 10-stop ND filter combined with a circular polarizer, I aimed to create a serene, minimalist composition. I used a 160-second exposure to soften the lake’s surface and blur the movement of clouds with the hope of drawing the eye directly to Mt. Fuji in the distance, framed by tranquil water and shadowed mountains.

Location: Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 15:56・2024/10/15
Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP + 10-stop ND filter
80 mm ISO 100 for 160.0 sec. at ƒ/11

References:

Google Maps: Lake Ashi (Ashinoko)・芦ノ湖

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Ancient Giants

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Kyū-Tōkaidō: A 17th-Century Path Lined with Ancient Giants
旧東海道：江戸時代に植えられた杉並木の道

The Tokaido “Highway” was a vital part of a network of mountain footpaths that connected the domains of feudal lords to the Shogunate in Edo (modern-day Tokyo). Spanning 492 kilometers, the Tokaido featured 53 designated stations, where weary travelers could find rest at inns, and horses could be fed and watered. These stations also played a crucial role in facilitating mail and courier services between Kyoto and Edo.

Originally established as a military route, the Tokaido evolved into a key thoroughfare by 1601. That year, the Shogunate mandated the construction of inns along the route to accommodate the increased traffic stemming from the alternate attendance system (sankin-kotai). This policy required over 300 feudal lords and their entourages—ranging from 60 to 300 retainers—to travel to and from Edo every year, creating a steady flow of people along the road.

To enhance the journey, the Shogunate ordered the planting of more than 400 cedar trees along both sides of this section of the Tokaido. These majestic trees provided travelers with cool shade during the intense summer heat and shelter from biting winds and snow in winter. In times of heavy snowfall, they also served as essential markers, helping travelers navigate the obscured path.

While there were once over 1,000 trees lining the route, modernization in 1904 led to the construction of a new road, which replaced portions of the ancient trail. To fund the construction, many of the cedar and pine trees were felled and sold. Today, approximately 400 trees remain, their towering forms reaching heights of 30 to 40 meters. At roughly 350 years old, these ancient giants stand as living witnesses to history. Sections of the Tokaido where these trees still thrive have been designated as national treasures, ensuring their preservation for generations to come.

Location: Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 15:34・2024/10/15
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 320 for 1/350 sec. at ƒ/2.5
Astia/Soft film simulation

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Smile of Contentment

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A Smile of Contentment: Dale-chan’s Rest in Onshi-Hakone Park
満足げな笑顔：恩賜箱根公園でひと休みするデールちゃん

As our photowalk in Hakone’s Onshi-Hakone Park drew to a close, we stumbled upon a charming wooden bench near the southwestern edge of the park, just about 110 meters from the parking lot. Unlike the heavy-duty plastic benches with their faux wood grain I see at some other parks, this one was made of real wood, blending seamlessly into the park’s natural surroundings.

The presence of these “real” wooden benches with wrought iron frames feels like a nod to the park’s storied history. Once imperial gardens, these grounds were reserved for the exclusive enjoyment of the imperial family and visiting dignitaries during their heyday between 1886 and 1923. It’s heartening to see the prefectural government preserving such details, even if it requires extra effort to maintain them—like replacing moss-covered wooden slats as they deteriorate. Alongside other Meiji Era-inspired touches, such as bamboo fencing and vintage-style gas lamps, these benches evoke a sense of nostalgia and elegance.

Dale-chan, my ever-loyal border collie, has been slowing down a little this past year, needing more frequent breaks during our adventures. The cooler mountain air of October has been a welcome relief after the relentless heat of summer, and this bench provided the perfect spot for a brief rest before the end of our visit.

If you’re planning to explore Onshi-Hakone Park with your furry companion, remember that dogs must be kept on a leash. After ensuring the area was clear of other visitors—some might be uneasy around dogs, or have dogs of their own that could tempt Dale-chan into an impromptu play session—I gently helped her onto the bench. Tucking her leash out of sight, I captured a moment of pure joy and contentment as she rested against the backdrop of this historic park.

Location: Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 15:18・2024/10/15
Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
95 mm ISO 800 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/5.6

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Lakeside Panorama Hall

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Lakeside Panorama Hall: Discover the Hakone Imperial Villa’s Timeless Charm
旧御用邸の面影を訪ねて：恩賜箱根公園の湖畔展望館

Completed in 1886, the Hakone Imperial Villa was a grand retreat designed for the imperial family, blending traditional Japanese architectural elegance with European influences popular in the mid-to-late 1800s. Nestled in the serene hills overlooking Lake Ashinoko, it served as both a peaceful escape and an impressive venue for hosting foreign dignitaries.

For decades, the villa symbolized refined hospitality. German, Russian, Austrian, Romanian, and British royalty, alongside ministers from Italy, the UK, and Siam (modern-day Thailand), were received here with grandeur. I can only imagine the lively banquets and quiet diplomatic exchanges that may have taken place, surrounded by the cool mountain air and the villa's carefully cultivated gardens.

Tragically, the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 dealt a devastating blow to this architectural marvel, with further damage following the Kita-Izu Earthquake in 1930. The grandeur of the villa slowly faded as it fell into disrepair during the hardships of World War II. By 1945, what remained of the estate was transformed into Onshi-Hakone Park, an effort to preserve its legacy.

In 1989, restoration efforts began to reimagine the gardens and introduce new structures, including the Lakeside Panorama Hall. Completed in 1992, the hall—crafted from hewn white granite—now houses a cozy café and a museum. Inside, exhibits offer glimpses of the villa's former glory, from intricate architectural details to images of grand receptions held in its halls.

The park was recognized as a National Registered Monument in 2013, a testament to its enduring cultural and historical significance. Its beautifully preserved landscaping, with meandering paths and sweeping views of Lake Ashinoko, hints at the artistry of the original imperial gardens.

As I stood on the grass lawn in front of the hall, I noticed the weathered foundation stones scattered across the ground—silent witnesses to the history that unfolded here. It was surreal to imagine the palace halls that once stood on these very stones, hosting royalty from across the globe in an era when reaching Japan from Europe took weeks, if not months, of arduous travel.

Yet here I was, standing in the same spot, knowing that in today’s world, a middle-class college student on vacation could leave their home and arrive at this park in less than 24 hours. The accessibility of this once-exclusive retreat now feels like a testament to how much the world has changed—and how connected we’ve become.

Location: Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 14:20・2024/10/15
Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
28 mm ISO 200 for 1/200 sec. at ƒ/6.3

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Onshi-Hakone Park

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From Emperor’s Retreat to Scenic Haven: Onshi-Hakone Park
恩賜箱根公園：皇室の別荘が公共の宝へ

Until 1884, this area was covered in dense bamboo forests. That changed when Erwin Bälz (1849–1913), a German physician hired by the Japanese government to teach medicine at Tokyo University, conducted research and recognized the potential of Hakone as a summer retreat. Bälz believed the area’s therapeutic hot springs could benefit Crown Prince Yoshihito (1879–1926), the sickly son of Emperor Meiji (1852–1912). With his recommendation, Hakone was chosen as the site for an imperial villa.

Perched on the Dogashima Peninsula, the location offered stunning views of Lake Ashi (Ashinoko) and the iconic peak of Mt. Fuji. The peninsula’s natural landscape provided not only beauty but also strategic advantages, making it easier to guard the villa from potential intrusions.

Completed in 1886, the Hakone Imperial Villa was an extensive complex that served as a retreat for the imperial family and a venue to host foreign dignitaries. For decades, it stood as a symbol of elegance and hospitality.

Tragically, the villa was severely damaged by the Great Kanto Earthquake in 1923 and further impacted by the Kita-Izu Earthquake of 1930. In the years that followed, particularly during World War II, the once-majestic grounds and structures fell into disrepair.

In 1945, the Imperial Household Agency transferred the land to Kanagawa Prefecture. It was later transformed into the public park we know today. Fittingly named Onshi Park (恩賜公園), meaning “Gift Park,” the name serves as a reminder that this beautiful space was once an imperial gift—one that continues to delight visitors with its serene views and rich history.

Location: Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan

Photo 1

Timestamp: 14:20・2024/10/15
Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
48 mm ISO 200 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/7.1

Photo 2

Timestamp: 14:40・2024/10/15
Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP + 6-stop ND filter
28 mm ISO 100 for 5.0 sec. at ƒ/10

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Heiwa-no-Torii

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Heiwa-no-Torii: A Sacred Gateway Meets the Shores of Lake Ashinoko

芦ノ湖に佇む箱根神社の入口・平和の鳥居

This torii gate serves two significant purposes. First, it marks the entrance from the shore of Lake Ashi to Hakone Shrine, which sits 213 meters (700 feet) up on the hill behind the gate.

Unlike most traditional torii gates, the Heiwa-no-Torii (Gate of Peace) is built directly over the water. Erected in 1952, it commemorates the Treaty of San Francisco, where Japan concluded peace with 48 nations, formally ending World War II.

Torii gates symbolize passage into divine territory, denoting the boundaries of a shrine’s sacred grounds. Proper etiquette includes bowing slightly before passing under the gate. When possible, it’s best to enter through either the right or left side of the pathway, as the center is reserved for the enshrined deities. Avoid walking around the gate altogether whenever possible.

The Heiwa-no-Torii is not easily accessed from the water, so most visitors approach the gate from behind and pose for photos with Lake Ashi as a stunning backdrop. However, as the gate serves as an entrance to an active sacred site, standing slightly to the right or left of the center pathway is the most respectful way to honor Shinto tradition and Japanese culture.

In 1964, a plaque inscribed with “平和” (Peace) was mounted on the gate to celebrate the 1,200th anniversary of Hakone Shrine and Japan’s hosting of the Tokyo Olympics. The calligraphy was personally written by former Prime Minister Yoshida Shigeru, who signed the peace treaty on Japan’s behalf. Since then, the gate has been affectionately known as the Torii Gate of Peace.

Location: Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 13:36・2024/10/15
Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
105 mm ISO 100 for 1/400 sec. at ƒ/10

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Hummin' Bloom

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Hummin' Bloom: Autumn’s Reflections in Titanium
「ハミングブルーム」秋色が踊るチタンの窓

“Keiko + Manabu” is a creative team led by Keiko Uchiyama (内山敬子) and Manabu Sawase (沢瀬学), blending their architectural expertise with artistic flair to craft immersive designs. Based in both Seattle and Tokyo, their work spans urban spaces, public installations, and private residences.

One of their standout creations is Hummin' Bloom, a titanium art piece that harmonizes with its surroundings while reflecting nature’s palette.

Crafted from 5-mm titanium plates, the surface treatment transforms Hummin' Bloom into a living canvas, reflecting light in a spectrum of rainbow hues. Warmer tones at the base echo the earthy woodland floor, transitioning into cooler blues that mirror the sky above Hakone’s mountain peaks.

Its design invites exploration: each crescent-shaped cutout frames a unique view, shifting in color and mood depending on your angle and the light. On sunny days, the hues are bold and vibrant, while overcast skies lend a subdued, dreamlike quality. Mist or fog enhances its surreal presence, as the curved openings transform your perspective with every step.

Personal Tip: The best way to experience Hummin' Bloom is to get up close. Peer through its cutouts, walk around it, and let each angle reveal a fresh connection to the surrounding landscape.

Location: Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 10:26・2024/10/15
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 160 for 1/40 sec. at ƒ/2.0
Velvia/Vivid film simulation