2024-07-10

Awamata Falls, Chiba

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Awamata Falls: Enjoy Meditation and Forest Bathing・粟又の滝:森林浴が楽しめるパワースポット

Location: Otaki Town, Chiba Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 12:37・2024/07/10

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP + 10-stop ND filter 
45 mm ISO 200 for 2.0 sec. at ƒ/8

Downstream from Awamata Falls, the effects of Typhoon Yun-yeung (#13), which struck on September 8, 2023, are still evident. The area is strewn with wood debris and large boulders, and parts of the promenade that once lined the shoreline are missing.

Despite the current condition of the Yōrō River (養老川, Yōrōgawa) downstream, the waterfall is considered the most famous in the Yoro Valley of Chiba’s Boso area, as noted by the local municipality. It flows gracefully down a 100-meter rock face, resembling a natural waterslide and creating a picturesque scene perfect for landscape photography.

At the base of the falls lies a shallow pond, extending into a stream that is popular during summer. Young families flock here, seeking a safe environment for children to play and interact with nature.

Promotional materials from the Chiba Prefectural Government, the Chiba Prefectural Tourism & Local Products Association, and Otaki Town encourage visits in autumn. As temperatures drop to a more comfortable level, the valley transforms into a vibrant tapestry of reds, oranges, and yellows, typically peaking from November to early December. Otaki Town proudly touts this foliage spectacle as one of Chiba Prefecture's finest.

For those traveling by car, parking at the hotel across from the trailhead to the falls costs only 500 yen. The Tourism Division of Otaki Town reminds visitors to pack out their trash and note that barbecues are prohibited in Yoro Valley and surrounding areas. Please follow the "Leave No Trace" principles and be mindful of your surroundings, mirroring the behavior of local families.

At the end of your visit, consider supporting the local businesses near the trailhead. These establishments rely on the patronage of visitors and guests from the nearby hotel.

Shop ①: Yama Neko (里のジェラテリア 山猫)

This upscale shop offers drinks, gelato, and ice cream. Its stylish, modern interior is reminiscent of high-end spots in central Tokyo and the Yokohama MM21 waterfront.

Shop ②: Takinoya (滝乃家)

A quaint mom-and-pop teahouse, Takinoya sells groceries, cold drinks, and a variety of soft ice cream flavors. During winter, they serve hot amazake to warm you up. The charming elderly owner is a delight to converse with if you speak Japanese. The shop exudes a nostalgic Showa era vibe, offering a timeless experience that resonates with older visitors like myself.

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Ubara Beach, Chiba

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Ubara Beach: Chiba’s Secluded Gem Off the Pacific Coast

Location: Ubara Beach, Chiba Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 10:51・2024/07/10

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP + 10-stop ND filter 
34 mm ISO 100 for 3.0 sec. at ƒ/11

I love the contrast of the light-colored sand on Ubara Beach with the darker tones of turquoise waters that lazily flow into the cove off the eastern coast of Chiba Prefecture.

Located approximately 100 km southeast of Tokyo, or about a 2-hour drive, Ubara Beach was nearly abandoned when I arrived, with only a few locals relaxing in the shade of a beachside shack or on the porch of their old houses.

Ubara Beach is one of Chiba Prefecture's most scenic spots and has been selected as one of the "100 Best Beaches in Japan." Once summer vacation starts for Japanese schoolchildren, the beach attracts many more visitors from Tokyo and surrounding areas for swimming and sunbathing, making it a bustling hub of activity. Further down the shoreline, away from beachgoers, fishing is also a popular pastime.

Over the past 40 years, I have visited many Japanese beaches. Shirahama Beach on the Izu Peninsula remains my favorite outside the peak summer season. Ubara Beach is a close second favorite, thanks to its solitude and the moss-covered rocks that create interesting photographic foregrounds.

Unlike many more popular beaches with easy access from Tokyo, especially along Shonan Bay and the eastern coast of the Izu Peninsula, Ubara Beach is a bit more secluded. Out-of-town visitors would be wise to stock up on food and drinks as there are no convenience stores in the immediate area, and there are few shops or restaurants where you can buy meals or refreshments.

My conversations with a few of the locals revealed that they don’t really consider their beach to be a tourist destination, which would explain how the village has been able to maintain its at-home vibe, free of the noise and litter more commonly associated with areas overwhelmed with tourists.

However, there are several minpaku close to the beach where out-of-town visitors can stay for a night and enjoy a leisurely day or two getting a taste of life in a small Japanese fishing village. The beach is blessed with beauty and is free of the rowdy and noisy crowds more likely to show up at beaches in Kamakura, Enoshima, Kugenuma, and others along the shores of Shonan Bay.

Access to the beach was relatively easy. We parked at the Ubara Utopia Visitor Parking Lot, which is free. The trail from the parking lot takes you through an old hand-dug tunnel for pedestrian use, making it a mere 10-minute walk to the beach.

Whether you seek solitude or the perfect photograph, Ubara Beach offers a unique escape from the crowds. I highly recommend visiting this hidden gem to experience its natural beauty firsthand.


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Exploring Ubara's White Torii

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Location: Ubara Beach, Chiba Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 10:43・2024/07/10

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP + 10-stop ND filter 
ISO 100 for 3.0 sec. at ƒ/11

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Location: Ubara Beach, Chiba Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 11:06・2024/07/10

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 160 for 1/1500 sec. at ƒ/6.4
Pro Negative High film simulation

The White Torii by the Sea: The Charm of Ubara Beach and Yasaka Shrine

Located on Ubara Beach, approximately 100 km southeast of Tokyo, or about a 2-hour drive, the torii gate of Yasaka Shrine is a striking landmark. Its white color harmonizes beautifully with the blue sky and turquoise ocean waters of the cove.

This torii gate is the first of two belonging to Yasaka Shrine. The second gate, a traditional vermilion torii, is situated about 500 meters further inland at the shrine's entrance.

Yasaka Shrine was founded in the latter half of the Kamakura period (1192–1333). It houses a guardian deity believed to ward off evil and is a branch shrine of the famous Yasaka Shrine in Kyoto.

Ubara Beach is one of Chiba Prefecture's most scenic spots and has been selected as one of the "100 Best Beaches in Japan." In summer, it attracts visitors from Tokyo and surrounding areas for swimming and sunbathing. The nearby coastal areas are also popular for fishing.

Every year on the seventh day of the sixth month of the lunar calendar, Yasaka Shrine hosts a festival featuring a portable shrine and a procession of feudal lords. This procession parades along the Ubara Coast, passing near the white torii gate.

Ubara Beach, home to the white torii, is a delightful place for beach activities, strolling, fishing, and even sea yoga.

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Ubara Island

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Ubara Island: A Diver’s Underwater Utopia・楽園のダイビング: 鵜原島の水中の不思議を発見

Location: Katsuura, Chiba Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 09:49・2024/07/10

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP + 10-stop ND filter 
73 mm ISO 100 for 3.0 sec. at ƒ/5.6

From the scenic vantage point at the end of the Ubara Utopia Trail, you can gaze out over the deep waters of the Pacific Ocean to the tiny Ubara Island. This idyllic spot off the coast of Myojin Cape is a popular destination for scuba divers and snorkelers alike.

Ubara Island offers a vibrant underwater world, teeming with diverse marine life nestled among its submerged cliffs and crevasses. The island’s unique topography creates a haven for an array of sea creatures, making every dive an exciting adventure.

Divers are treated to sights of half-lined cardinal fish, rockfish, and convict fish finding solace in their cozy crevices, while isaki (grunt), takabe (sardine), and horse mackerel dart energetically through the depths. The ledges of the underwater cliffs often host cat sharks, adding a thrilling element to the experience. Between winter and spring, you might also encounter lumberjacks and frogfish.

Whether you're a seasoned diver or new to the underwater world, Ubara Island offers a delightful blend of beauty and biodiversity that promises to captivate and inspire underwater adventurers.

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Cape Kedo Sea Cliffs

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Cape Kedo: Remnants of Boshu Stone Quarries and Rich Geological History

Location: Kedoura Inlet, Chiba Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 9:22・2024/07/10

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP + 10-stop ND filter 
ISO 100 for 3.0 sec. at ƒ/6.3

Cape Kedo, situated on the east coast of Chiba Prefecture facing the Pacific Ocean, showcases heavily eroded sea cliffs and remnants of quarried stone.

The exposed strata, dating back approximately 2.5 million years, are visible on the sea cliffs, revealing interlayers of sandstone, mudstone, turbidite, trace fossils, and various types of tuff (volcanic ash). Signs of ancient fault slips can also be seen up close on the cliff faces.

This coastal area, including Cape Kedo and numerous other capes along the Boso Peninsula, was once a bustling site of stone quarries. These quarries extracted stone from the Mineoka Ophiolite Belt, which extends from the Pacific coastline to Tokyo Bay.

The Mineoka Belt was formed by geological activity resulting from undersea volcanic activity, leading to the formation of large reservoirs of Boshu stone. This stone was ideal for crafting tombstones, stone lanterns, and large blocks used for building foundations and construction materials during the Edo Period (1603–1868).

Commodore Perry's arrival in 1853 highlighted the strategic importance of fortified coastal defenses, prompting the shogunate to source Boshu stone for artillery batteries.

In 1858, following the U.S.-Japanese Treaty of Amity and Commerce, the city of Yokohama was opened. This led to the rapid construction of foreign settlements and major port infrastructure using Boshu stone, including modern wharfs, customs structures, and piers.

Demand for Boshu stone continued to grow as Yokohama rapidly became an international port, facilitating the construction of Western-style stone buildings. Today, the cliffs of Cape Kedo stand as a testament to the region's rich geological history and its role in shaping Japan's coastal defenses and international trade.

Glossary:
  • 房総半島嶺岡帯 (Bōsōhantō Mineoka-tai): Boso Peninsula Mineoka belt
  • 鵜原・Ubara: coastal district in the city of Katsuura, Chiba Prefecture
  • 採石場 (saisekiba): quarry: 
  • 嶺岡構造帯 (Mineoka kōzō-tai): Mineoka Tectonic Zone
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Kedoura Inlet

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Kedoura Inlet: A Scenic Escape in Chiba

Location: Kedoura Inlet, Chiba Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 9:20・2024/07/10

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
ISO 100 for 1/320 sec. at ƒ/5.0

The Kedoura Inlet on the eastern shore of Chiba Prefecture offers a stunning view of the Pacific Ocean, framed by eroded rock formations that reveal a glimpse into the geological history of Myojin Cape. This picturesque area is part of the Minami-Boso Quasi-National Park, which features numerous coves and cliffs that reach the water’s edge, their tops lush with trees, grass, and shrubbery.

Hiking trails extend for several kilometers throughout the park, leading to several scenic spots, including this small inlet. The trails offer a chance to explore the natural beauty and tranquility of the area, making it a perfect destination for nature enthusiasts and hikers.

During the Taisho period (1879–1926), there were ambitious plans to transform this area of Chiba Prefecture into a resort destination named Uhara Risōkyō (Ubara Utopia). However, these plans were aborted due to the devastating impact of the Great Kanto Earthquake on September 1, 1923. The earthquake resulted in the deaths of more than 110,000 individuals and left nearly 1.5 million people homeless, halting the development of the resort.

Despite this, the natural beauty and historical significance of the Kedoura Inlet and its surroundings continue to attract visitors, offering a unique blend of scenic landscapes and a poignant reminder of the region’s past.

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Border Collie at Chiba Beach

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Cooling Down on Myojin Cape

Location: Myojin Cape, Chiba Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 9:15・2024/07/10

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
ISO 100 for 1/80 sec. at ƒ/9.0

Located on the southwestern coast of Chiba Prefecture, the Kedoura Inlet features a small beach with a mixture of sand and seashells where my border collie promptly found a small pool of cool water to rest in.

The inlet is part of the Ubara Utopia Hiking Trail, which leads to various outlook points on Myojin Cape. Here, you can enjoy grand views of the Pacific Ocean and feel the cool ocean breeze flowing inland from the chilly deep waters just off the coastline.

While heading down to the beach, I ran into an elderly local bird photographer on the trail. We struck up a conversation, and he ended up accompanying me to this beach. 

He shared many interesting details about the local bird population, flowering plants, and the various creatures living in and around the small pools of water and eroded rocks along the beach. I was very fortunate to meet someone so friendly and willing to share so much knowledge of the area!

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