2024-04-09

Edo’s Fast Food

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Chiyoda Sushi: A Modern Twist on Edo’s Fast Food

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 18:08・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/80 sec. at ƒ/11
Classic Negative film simulation

High-quality sushi without the premium prices of a sit-in restaurant, Chiyoda Sushi is a shop to keep in mind. This popular chain specializes in take-out sushi, offering an array of delicious options that won't break the bank.

Chiyoda Sushi began its journey in 1959, establishing itself as a purveyor of sushi by sourcing fresh fish directly from wholesalers at the historic Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo. This direct supply chain ensured that Chiyoda's sushi was not only fresh but also affordable, standing out in a market where sushi was becoming increasingly viewed as a luxury.

In the post-war era, sushi evolved into a high-end dining experience, far removed from its origins. Chiyoda Sushi aimed to change that narrative. Their business strategy was inspired by the Edo period (1603-1868), an era when sushi, known as Edomae sushi, was a common food enjoyed by the general populace. By offering quality sushi at accessible prices, Chiyoda Sushi sought to return to these roots, making this beloved Japanese cuisine available to everyone, just as it was in the bustling days of Edo.

Edomae sushi, which originated in Edo (now Tokyo), was the fast food of its time. It focused on using fresh fish that could be easily and quickly acquired from the bustling fish markets on Tokyo Bay. This included popular varieties such as tuna, bonito, halibut, sea eel, and various shellfish. Given the lack of modern refrigeration, some of these fish were preserved with methods like salting, vinegaring, or marinating in soy sauce. These techniques not only extended the shelf life but also enriched the fish with complementary flavors.

The rice in Edomae sushi was also unique. It was mixed with vinegar, which added a tangy flavor and acted as a preservative. This practice of pairing seasoned rice with preserved fish made Edomae sushi a convenient and tasty option for the people of Edo, contributing to its popularity as a quick, accessible meal.

Fast forward to today, and Chiyoda Sushi continues to honor the tradition of Edomae sushi. It remains a beloved spot for locals, foreign residents, and tourists alike, standing out as a modern-day equivalent of Edo's fast food.

Chiyoda Sushi’s commitment to providing authentic Edomae sushi in a take-out format offers a unique culinary experience. It's a departure from the high-end sushi shops where both the price and the presentation can be as intense as the flavors. At Chiyoda Sushi, you get the same traditional flavors that once fed the busy streets of Edo, all wrapped up to take home and enjoy at your leisure.

References:
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Teal and Red

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Changing Faces of a Teal Storefront

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 18:06・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/20 sec. at ƒ/11
Classic Negative film simulation

Opened in 2022 by a Vietnamese proprietor, this yakitori restaurant (serving pieces of chicken grilled on skewers) has received mixed reviews.

This rental space has seen numerous businesses over the years. In 2021, it housed a Taiwanese fried chicken restaurant. From 2015 to 2020, a green tea cafe thrived here. Prior to that, from 2011 until 2014, a cosmetics store with a beauty salon enjoyed a successful run.

For me, the shop's teal siding and the stark contrast of the red sign were the main attractions. This vibrant combination caught my eye during this photo shoot!

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Green Tea Shop

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Surviving War and Time: The Enduring Legacy of Hamaya from Groceries to Green Tea

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 18:03・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 120 sec. at ƒ/11
Classic Negative film simulation

Established in 1928 as a small family-run grocery shop, Hamaya has endured for nearly a century, including surviving the hardships of World War II. After the war, in 1945, it transitioned to specializing in green tea and roasted coffee beans.

The shop has two sections: on the left, they sell green tea, Chinese tea, and tea-related products; on the right, they sell roasted coffee beans.

Most of their Japanese green tea varieties are sourced from Shizuoka Prefecture, the heart of Japanese tea cultivation, offering over 50 varieties to choose from. A closer look at my photo reveals other products, including health-conscious teas, seaweed, teapots, tea utensils, and gift-packaged teas.

In only a few more years, this shop will be celebrating its centennial anniversary. I hope to return to Hamaya and chat with the owners to discuss their plans for the next 100 years!

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Ashina Bento Shop

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Healthy and Delicious: Ashina Bento Shop

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 17:55・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 320 for 1/350 sec. at ƒ/2.5
Classic Negative film simulation

The Ashina bento shop has been selling homemade Japanese boxed meals, called obento, here at the Gumyoji Shotengai shopping arcade since 1978!

Bento are single-portion take-out meals that are popular for lunches. They can be bought and taken back to your office or factory, enjoyed with little fuss, and require no heating, as they are prepared early in the morning and sold on the same day of preparation.

Bento boxes usually consist of rice with three or more side dishes of meat, fish, or egg, and a variety of fresh, pickled, or cooked vegetables. Ideally, you want to try to make the bento appear vibrant with colors of red, green, or yellow by using a wide variety of vegetables. As a result, the bento meal often includes the five flavors of sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami (savory).

Although many bento boxes sold at convenience stores are mass-produced in large factories, where they might be more likely to use some artificial coloring and preservatives, this shop takes pride in producing every meal onsite. Their meals are free of any artificial coloring and preservatives, ensuring freshness, full flavor, and a healthy meal.

This shop promotes their meals for elderly folks living alone, busy mothers and housewives, workers at local offices and factories, and more. They also sell side dishes that can supplement the family’s main dishes at the dinner table.

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Pokémon and Ito En

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Vending Machines: From Pokémon Collaborations to Disaster Preparedness

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 17:45・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 400 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2
Classic Negative film simulation

Japan boasts an impressive array of vending machines, numbering around 2.6 million as of December 2023. In the span of the last four decades, I've witnessed significant shifts in this vending landscape. Notably, there has been a decline in machines vending alcohol and cigarettes, paralleled by a rise in machines offering both hot and cold beverages from a single unit. Among these innovations, my personal favorite is the advent of machines equipped with QR code scanning capabilities, allowing seamless payment through an app on my smartphone.

In my photo, two distinct elements immediately captured my eye: the presence of a Pokémon character adorning the vending machine, and upon closer inspection, the machine's disaster response capabilities.

Firstly, the Pokémon character quickly attracts passersby, drawing attention to a collaboration between Ito En, a prominent Japanese beverage company, and the Pokémon Go game.

Secondly, a conspicuous label on the machine reveals its designation as a “disaster response vending machine.” This designation indicates that in the event of a severe earthquake or other natural calamities surpassing a predetermined threshold, the machine can dispense drinks free of charge, even in the absence of electrical power. Additionally, I've come across information that some machines are even equipped with electronic bulletin boards to transmit disaster alerts and essential evacuation instructions.

While I sincerely hope to never have to utilize the services of a disaster response vending machine, it's reassuring to know that some large corporations are stepping up to make their services and products accessible to society during times of crisis. It underscores a sense of corporate responsibility and solidarity in supporting communities when they need it most.

Glossary:
  • 災害救援・saigai kyūen: disaster relief
  • 自動販売機・jidō hanbaiki: vending machine
  • 災害救援自販機・saigai kyūen jihanki: a vending machine that can be operated manually to disperse products inside the vending machine in the event of a power outage due to a disaster.
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Hamadaya Kimono

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Three Generations of Tradition: Hamadaya Kimono Care Shop

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 17:41・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 1250 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2
Classic Negative film simulation

Hamadaya, a kimono tailor and cleaning specialty shop, has a rich history dating back to the 1920s when it began as a dyeing workshop. Today, they specialize in the meticulous care and maintenance of kimono garments. Their services include professional cleaning, stain removal, tailoring to fit your body measurements, and various alterations.

With access to a wide range of silk materials, Hamadaya offers not only traditional kimono but also a variety of Japanese-style clothing items reminiscent of kimonos, along with tenugui towels and unique furoshiki cloths. Additionally, they provide a selection of souvenir silk items highly sought after by overseas tourists.

As a family-run establishment, Hamadaya is currently led by its third-generation owner, ensuring a legacy of craftsmanship and dedication to preserving the art of kimono.

Glossary:
  • 手ぬぐい・tengui: A traditional Japanese towel, typically measuring about 90 cm (2.9 feet) x 35 cm (1.1 feet). It is made of flat-woven cotton and often dyed with plain colors or patterns. Tenugui have hemmed long sides and unhemmed short sides, facilitating faster drying through fraying. They are versatile, used for cleaning, drying hands, and for protective or decorative wrapping. During festivals, tenugui are worn as headwear, belts, or used as props.
  • 風呂敷・furoshiki: A traditional Japanese wrapping cloth primarily used for transporting goods such as sake bottles, bento lunch boxes, and gifts of various sizes and shapes. Furoshiki may have hemmed edges and can be crafted from a variety of materials, including silk or cotton for traditional versions, and synthetic materials like rayon, nylon, or polyester for modern adaptations.
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Peko-chan and Fujiya

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From Papier-mâché to Pop Culture Icon: The Enduring Story of Peko-chan and Fujiya Corporation

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 17:39・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
① ISO 800 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2
② ISO 800 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2
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Fujiya Corporation, a century-old family business based in Tokyo, is renowned for its delectable confectioneries and iconic life-size mascot dolls known as Peko-chan, which proudly stand in front of Fujiya chain confectionery stores nationwide.

The company's founder embarked on a pivotal journey to the United States to study Western confectionery techniques and manufacturing processes. Upon his return to Japan the following year, he established a second shop, styled after a soda fountain, where he not only served coffee but also showcased his confectionery creations.

Founded in 1910 in Motomachi, Yokohama, Fujiya began as a modest venture that steadily expanded its reach. By the mid-20th century, it had established over eight new stores across Yokohama and Tokyo, signaling its growing prominence in the confectionery market. 

In 1963, Fujiya experienced a significant leap forward with the implementation of franchising, a move that fueled its expansion even further. Notably, in 2010, the company proudly celebrated its centennial anniversary, marking a century of excellence in crafting delightful treats.

Peko-chan, the beloved mascot of Fujiya, made her debut in the 1950s as a papier-mâché doll adorned in traditional Japanese attire—a reflection of post-war cultural norms.

Her endearing expression, characterized by a playful tongue sticking out and a swaying head, captivated the hearts of many. However, her popularity led to frequent handling by fans, resulting in damage to her delicate papier-mâché structure. Incremental repairs became unsustainable, prompting a transition to more durable materials.

Over the years, Peko-chan evolved not only in material but also in her roles. Initially dressed in handmade clothes reflecting contemporary fashion trends, she eventually expanded her presence beyond the confines of Fujiya stores. From corporate ambassadorships to appearances in TV commercials and fashion magazines, Peko-chan became an enduring cultural icon.

In the 1950s, more robust models with wobbling heads were introduced, delighting children with interactive features. Subsequent iterations saw subtle changes, such as blue eyes, inspired by diverse cultural influences.

Fast forward to the 21st century, and Peko-chan's legacy endures. The “Peko-chan Exhibition” at the Hiratsuka Art Museum in Kanagawa Prefecture showcased her nostalgic charm, while the modern mascot—a hardened plastic and enamel rendition—remains a ubiquitous marketing symbol in Japan. Adorned in her trademark yellow T-shirt and red overalls, life-sized Peko-chan dolls continue to greet customers outside Fujiya stores nationwide.
 
For over 45 years, the Gumyoji branch of Fujiya has been a cherished fixture in the community. If you find yourself in the vicinity, I highly recommend paying a visit to sample their renowned strawberry sponge cake—an exquisite treat that epitomizes Fujiya's commitment to culinary excellence.

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