2024-12-10

Higashi-Ueno 5-Chome

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A Walk Through Time and Motion in Higashi-Ueno, Tokyo・台東区東上野5丁目の街歩き

A short walk around 5-Chome of Higashi-Ueno in Tokyo’s Taito Ward revealed three moments that captured my eye—each telling a story of the area's history, contrasts, and vibrancy.

Amid the gleaming, modern skyline of office buildings, residential condominiums, and hotels, a humble mixed-use building quietly persists. This relic of the Showa era, with a shop on the first floor and residential space above, feels like a lonely survivor of a bygone era. Surrounded by parking lots and overshadowed by towering developments, it seems destined to make way for yet another sleek office block or high-rise apartment building. Yet, for now, it stands, hinting to me a nostalgia of a different Tokyo—one of small mom-and-pop shops and tightly knit communities.

Across the street from where I had just finished a meeting with a client, another piece of history caught my eye. An old wooden residence, likely the home of the monk or caretaker of Ryūkoku-ji Temple, exudes a quiet elegance. This traditional structure, with its graceful tiled roof and weathered wooden exterior, is thought to have been rebuilt alongside the temple after the devastating Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923. Standing next to a gleaming steel-and-glass high-rise, this residence preserves centuries of culture and tradition in contrast to the rapid modernization that defines much of Tokyo today.

A few blocks away, the quiet hum of the city was suddenly interrupted by the shrill sound of alarms and a booming announcement over a loudspeaker. Firefighters sprang into action, swiftly donning their gear as fire trucks roared to life. The energy was intense as I hurriedly took photos, trying to capture the scene. Among the many frames, only one was sufficiently sharp: a firefighter securing his oxygen tank, a moment of focus and readiness amidst the chaos. Though my slower shutter speed made sharper shots difficult, this one image managed to freeze the motion just enough to convey the urgency and determination of the moment.

Higashi-Ueno’s 5-Chome, a small triangular-shaped subdivision that includes about 21 blocks of cramped buildings, isn’t much different from the thousands of other small subdivisions scattered throughout Tokyo’s 23 wards, where the past and present coexist in fascinating ways. From the quiet resilience of old buildings to the rapid pulse of a modern city at work, I was able to catch a glimpse of Tokyo’s layered character during my short break before returning to my office in Yokohama. My walk around this corner of Taito Ward reminded me of how much life unfolds in even the smallest details of a city’s urbanscape.

  • Location: Higashi-Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo
  • Timestamp: 14:12・2024/12/10
  • Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
  • ISO 640 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/8
  • Acros film simulation

  • Location: Ryūkoku-ji Temple, Taito-ku, Tokyo
  • Timestamp: 14:14・2024/12/10
  • Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
  • ISO 1250 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/9
  • Classic Chrome film simulation

  • Location: Ueno Fire Station, Taito-ku, Tokyo
  • Timestamp: 14:20・2024/12/10
  • Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
  • ISO 3200 for 1/60 sec. at ƒ/9
  • Astia Soft film simulation

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