2024-03-20

Aokigahara-Jukai Forest



Faithful Companion Deep in Moss-Covered Sea of Trees

Location: Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi, Japan
Timestamp: 09:06・2024/03/20

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
45 mm ISO 25,600 for 1/200 sec. at ƒ/6.3

I explored Aokigahara Forest (elevation 1,014 m / 3,327 ft) nestled on the northwestern flank of Mount Fuji in Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan, accompanied by my border collie for an early morning photo session, evading the crowds that typically flock to the hiking trails later in the day.

Access to the forest is convenient, just a short 2-hour drive via the Chuo Expressway from central Tokyo (depending on traffic). The trailhead boasts ample free parking and is also accessible by bus for those opting for public transportation.

Adjacent to the forest lie the Fugaku Wind Cave and the Narusawa Ice Cave. However, since these attractions charge a fee, prohibit pets, and open later at 9:00 a.m., they were not feasible options for me, considering my early arrival with my border collie.

Formed by the Aokigahara Lava Flow originating from Mount Fuji in 864 CE, the forest floor spans approximately 30 square kilometers (12 sq mi). Over 1,100 years, the lava cooled and solidified, enabling the growth of lichen and moss, creating a unique ecosystem.

The terrain, characterized by thick layers of uneven lava rock, presents a challenge for trees to establish deep roots, leading them to spread outward across the rock's surface, relying on the sparse topsoil available.

A notable feature of the forest is its porous lava bedrock, which absorbs sound, enhancing the solitude experienced within this pristine wilderness.

Locals refer to Aokigahara as Jukai (樹海), or “Sea of Trees” in Japanese, which aptly describes the lush, untouched landscape, fostering diverse flora and fauna. The forest hosts a plethora of mammals, birds, insects, conifers, broadleaf trees, and shrubs, as detailed in its Wikipedia entry.

Beyond its natural allure, the Sea of Trees has captivated folklore and popular culture, inspiring numerous novels, TV shows, and films in Japan. According to local legends, yurei, tormented ghosts, are said to haunt the area.

Regrettably, the forest's association with suicide has attracted sensationalism from traditional and social media, spurring a surge in dark tourism. Such visitors, who typically go off trail and trample the plants and litter the forest with trash, have prompted calls among some locals to close the forest to the public in an effort to preserve the sacredness of the forest.

Fortunately, the forest remains open to the public, inviting exploration of its cultural heritage and appreciation of its natural beauty, a testament to the awe-inspiring forces of Mother Nature.

Visitors are urged to adhere to designated trails, as the forest's landscape makes navigation challenging should you get lost. Moreover, as a national natural monument, the Aokigahara Sea of Trees is safeguarded by the Cultural Properties Protection Act, mandating respect for its preservation and conservation.

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