2023-01-02

Enoshima Island Hatsumode

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
48 mm ISO 100 for 50 sec. at ƒ/16

Torii Gate and Bamboo
(Enoshima Island, Kanagawa Pref., Japan)

This torii gate is the first major landmark you come across as you make your approach up the narrow alley of shops that lead to the large set of stairs that take you up to the top of the island and all of its various shrines.

As is normal anytime of year, the torii gate is decorated with a straw or hemp rope called shimenawa with white zigzag folded rice paper called shide attached to the rope.

This shot was a 50-second exposure, so naturally, the shide and upper portions of the bamboo grass were moving in the wind resulting in blurry shots.

The bamboo are a symbol of strength and prosperity, and in this case are used to ward off evil during festivals, such as during New Year’s Day.

This particular gate is a bit unique in that it is made of a bronze or copper material and if you look closely, it has beautiful metal work of dragons and other traditional motifs.

Capturing a shot of this shrine is nearly impossible during the day time as so many tourists want to have their picture taken in front of the gate. To avoid the crowds, I arrived here at 5:00 a.m. several hours before sunrise.

The plaque at the top center of the gate is using a very old fancy script that is hard to read, but says “Enoshima Daimyo-Jin” (Enoshima Daimyo Shrine) and was originally constructed of wood in in 1747 for Enoshima Benzaiten worship.

The gate was later reconstructed in 1821. Names of the donors who helped finance the gate are inscribed onto the pillars with the names of modern donors being added to the columns even now.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
68 mm ISO 100 for 60 sec. at ƒ/22

Shopping Street to Shrine

Shot taken halfway up Benzaiten Nakamise-dori Street where you get a peek of the large vermilion torii gate where visitors begin their ascent to the shrines, temples, and gardens atop Enoshima Island in Fujisawa, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan.

This long, narrow street begins with the bronze torii gate (see previous post) and ends at the huge vermilion torii gate you can see in this shot.

The street is lined with many old mom-and-pop shops selling traditional Japanese dishes, fresh seafood, snacks, drinks, and souvenirs. There are also ryokan (traditional Japanese-style inns), western hotels, onsen (hot spring baths), and several narrow alleyways leading to small beaches and coves.

The term “Nakamise-dori” is actually the name of any street close to a shrine or temple that has come into being to serve the needs of visitors, tourists, and parishioners of temples and shrines since ancient times. This street, like many Nakamise streets, still retains its retro vibes, and hasn’t changed much since my first visit over 30 years ago.

This shot was taken at 5:30 in the morning, and even then, I had to wait for a clear shot as a newspaper delivery bike was buzzing by and New Year’s holiday visitors were already starting to make their way to the shrines atop the island.

On a normal weekend, the street is packed with both local visitors, tourists from outside of the prefecture, and foreign tourists from all over the world. The island is only a 60- or 70-minute train ride from Tokyo  making it an easy and affordable destination for a one-day excursion.
 
Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
37 mm ISO 100 for 30 sec. at ƒ/29

Enoshima Grand Torii Gate

At the end of the Benzaiten Nakamise-dori Street, the Grand Torii gate of Enoshima Shrine will quickly come into view.

The vivid, vermilion lacquered torii is the gateway to the large Enoshima Shrine complex that consists of three main shrines located at the top of a winding set of stairs.

The original vermilion torii gate was built 1805, and rebuilt in 1936 as a gift from Toshiko Hayashi–the headmistress of the Yamada School of Koto (a Japanese half-tube zither instrument that has thirteen strings made of twisted silk), which was founded sometime between 1781 and 1801.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
28 mm ISO 100 for 1 sec. at ƒ/22

Gatehouse to Shrine

Zuishinmon, the gatehouse at the top of the first set of stairs, just past the grand torii gate, is modeled after the mythical Dragon King Castle (Ryugu-jo) that is depicted in the Japanese folktale “Urashima Taro.”

The kanji characters used for Zuishinmon (瑞心門) literally mean “pure” + “heart” + “gate” and named as such in hope that the hearts of visitors will be purified as they pass through the gate as they approach the shrines atop the island.

In this shot, we can also enjoy the sight of chochin paper lanterns that have been put out for the New Year’s holidays and used to light up the winding stairs leading to the top of the island.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
28 mm ISO 100 for 2 sec. at ƒ/16

Main Shrine atop Enoshima Island

Hetsumiya (辺津宮), is the main shrine atop Enoshima Island. The first structure was built in 1206 under direction of the third shogun during Kamakura Period (1185–1333).

As is the case with many shrines and temples in Japan, the shrine was rebuilt or renovated many times over the past 1,000 years with the current building having been renovated in 1976.

During the Kamakura Period, the shrine was visited by samurai warriors to pray for victorious battles. However, during the much more peaceful Edo Period (1603-1867), the shrine became associated with praying for prosperity, healing of illnesses, safe childbirth, and safe travels. 

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
80 mm ISO 100 for 1/15 sec. at ƒ/29

First Sunrise of the New Year

Catching the first sunrise of the new year in Japan dates back to ancient ceremonies of nobility during the Heian Period (794 to 1185). During the Meiji Period (1868 to 1912), the observance of the first sunrise spread to the common people and continues today. 

Hatsuhinode (初日の出), the first sunrise of the new year, is enjoyed on the morning of January 1st often after many people have visited shrines or temples to pray for health and prosperity in the new year.

For some people who might be too busy on the 1st or need some time to rest, going out to catch the sunrise on the 2nd instead is a nice option if you want to avoid the huge crowds or need to accommodate for extra travel time to one’s hometown for the holidays.

In this shot, I waited for my first sunrise of the year on the northeastern shore of Enoshima Island just as a fishing boat was setting sail.
 
Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
88 mm ISO 100 for 1/200 sec. at ƒ/11

Mt. Fuji Across the Bay

On a clear day, you can catch a view of Mt. Fuji on the other side of Sagami Bay from the western shore of Enoshima Island.

According to visibility records maintained by the city of Fuji in Shizuoka Prefecture, you’ll have the best chance of seeing Mt. Fuji in its entirety between November and February.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
68 mm ISO 100 for 1/200 sec. at ƒ/11

 Vermilion Bridge and Mt. Fuji

Following along the footpaths atop Enoshima Island, you will reach the furthermost western side of the Island. At the bottom of a steep set of stairs near the water is a newly restored pedestrian overpass called Iwayabashi Bridge (岩屋橋) that allows visitors to more easily access the Iwabashi Caves where you can find statues and deities dating back to the year 552.

Photographs from the Meiji Period (1868 to 1912) show a wooden bridge leading to the caves. An unsightly concrete bridge with a chain link fence was in use until a rockfall accident caused the bridge to be closed in 1971 for 22 years.

A new bridge was opened in 1993 but later destroyed when the combination of a high tide and storm surge from Typhoon Lan hit the region in 2017. The current bridge has proper railings, can be lit up at night during festivals, and is painted a lovely vermilion in tune with most of the other bridges on the island.

Although the caves are the main attraction on this side of the Island, you can also enjoy a lovely view of Mt. Fuji across the bay on a clear day.

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