2024-03-20

Kayabuki Farmhouse for Silkworms

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From Silk Worms to Scarves: Inside the Historic Farmhouses of Saiko Iyashi-no-Sato Nenba

Location: Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi Pref., Japan
Timestamp: 12:24・2024/03/20

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
28 mm ISO 400 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/11

This farmhouse stands as the epitome of a traditional Japanese rural dwelling, characterized by its iconic thatched roof and adorned with a few unique features tailored for silk production.

A defining trait of many restored farmhouses in the Saiko Iyashi-no-Sato Nenba open-air museum is their incorporation of second-floor windows. These windows play a pivotal role in regulating airflow, light, and temperature, essential for the cultivation of silkworms. This industry was central to the village's existence, tracing back to the Edo Period (1603-1867).

The houses in this village used a distinctive thatched roof design, known as kabuto-zukuri (兜造り), owes its origin to the necessities of sericulture. The name, kabuto-zukuri, translates to "helmet structure,” and derives from the roof's resemblance to the helmet worn by samurai warriors.

Ventilation and ample sunlight were indispensable for successful sericulture, thus these dwellings were crafted to cater to the needs of silk production, reflecting one of the primary livelihoods of the local farmers .

Today, this meticulously restored farmhouse serves a new purpose as the home of Fujisan Silk, a gift shop offering a variety of silk products. From scarves to ties, these items are crafted by Kashiwagi Co., Ltd., a silk textiles manufacturer with a rich history spanning over 300 years in the neighboring town of Fujiyoshida.

Terms:
  • 茅葺屋根 kayabuki yane: thatched roof
  • 民家 minka: rural dwelling or farmhouse
  • 茅葺き民家 kayabuki minka: thatched roof house
  • 兜 kabuto: a type of helmet first used by ancient Japanese warriors and later by the samurai class 
  • 造り tsukuri: structure
  • 兜造り kabuto-dzukuri: structure of roof resembling samurai helmet
References:


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Vintage Mailbox and Shoiko Backpacks

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Historic Relics Next to the Watanabe Residence

Location: Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi Pref., Japan
Timestamp: 12:06・2024/03/20

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
53 mm ISO 100 for 1/50 sec. at ƒ/6.3

Next to the former Watanabe Residence, a Registered Tangible Cultural Property of Japan, sits a quaint shed adorned with charming relics of the past – an older style mailbox and shoiko backpacks.

This particular design of mailbox traces its origins back to 1949, a time when the use of iron for casting durable mailboxes resumed to normal levels as critical materials became once again available for civilian use following the end of World War II.

Seventy-four years have passed since then, yet this particular style of mailbox can still be found in both rural areas and older neighborhoods in urban Japan.

Dating back to the Edo Period (1603-1867), two shoiko backpacks hang on the shed's wall. Crafted from hardwood and straw ropes, these vintage backpacks served as indispensable tools for farmers and their families. They were utilized for transporting charcoal, harvested crops, firewood, and rice bundles. Given the expectation for children to assist with chores, smaller shoiko backpacks tailored for youngsters were also commonplace.

Terms:
  • 背負子 (shoiko): a vintage style of backpack; wooden rack with shoulder straps for carrying loads on one's back
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Hinomiya and Fire Tower

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From Fire Lookout to Costume Haven: Hinomiya Building in Saiko Iyashi-no-Sato Nenba

Location: Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi Pref., Japan
Timestamp: 12:02・2024/03/20

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
28 mm ISO 100 for 1/40 sec. at ƒ/11

The Hinomiya building (火の見屋) is a restored thatched-roof house currently being used as a costume rental shop within the Saiko Iyashi-no-Sato Nenba open-air museum in Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan. Visitors can rent costumes tailored as kimonos, sets of samurai armor, ninja costumes, and more to wear and pose for photos around the museum.

The name "Hinomi" (火の見) translates to “fire lookout,” which explains the presence of a bell at the top of the tower situated in the front yard of this old restored house.

In pre-modern Japan, many villages and cities were constructed from flammable materials such as wood, bamboo, straw, and paper. Due to the proximity of structures, fires could easily spread. In response, the Shogunate mandated the construction of watch towers in 1723. For further insight into this historical context, consider reading “Fire-Fighting and Disaster Prevention in Edo” published by the Journal of Japanese Trade & Industry in November/December 2000, authored by historian Sumiyoshi Yamamoto.

The restored Hinomiya building now serves as a costume rental shop, offering over 100 different types of kimonos and sets of armor for rent. Visitors can enjoy wearing these costumes while exploring the museum grounds and capturing fun photos with the traditional buildings as backdrops. With luck, you might even catch a shot of Mt. Fuji in the background.

Terms:
  • 半鐘 (hanshō): alarm bell
  • 火の見櫓 (hinomi-yagura): fire lookout towers
References:

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Goronekan Rest House

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Rest and Rejuvenation: A Respite Space in Yamanashi

Location: Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi Pref., Japan
Timestamp: 11:55・2024/03/20

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
31 mm ISO 100 for 1/320 sec. at ƒ/8

The Goronekan (ごろ寝館) is a meticulously restored thatched-roof structure within the Saiko Iyashi-no-Sato Nenba open-air museum, in Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan. This restored house offers visitors a serene retreat, and serves as an intimate venue for small concerts featuring traditional Japanese musical instruments, adding a cultural dimension to its charm.

The name itself, Goronekan, translates to “falling asleep in one's clothes to take a nap" combined with "public building." Essentially, Goronekan serves as a respite for weary visitors, offering a place to rest and rejuvenate on traditional tatami mats or wooden floors after exploring the village's many attractions.

Perched at the highest point of the open-air museum, Goronekan treats visitors to a majestic vista of Mount Fuji, framed by the quaint thatched roofs of neighboring buildings, provided the weather cooperates.

Admission is free, inviting guests to bring along their own food and tea to savor while reclining in the same manner as Japanese families would have done many generations ago. Whether engaging in conversation with fellow visitors, delving into a good book, or simply indulging in a nap ("gorone"), the tranquil ambiance of Goronekan invites relaxation.

Moreover, for those seeking a more private affair, Goronekan can be rented out for a fee, accommodating private parties, gatherings, or local community meetings. Its main hall offers a versatile space, suitable for intimate musical performances or serving as a stage for event hosts.

Terms:
  • ごろ寝 (gorone): roll over, spread out, and take a nape (in your clothes)
  • 館 (〜kan): mansion; palace; manor house; castle, large building, public building
  • 娯楽室 (gorakushitsu): recreation, amusement, or relaxing room 
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Tetsubin, Irori, and Hinamatsuri

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From Doll Displays to Irori Hearths: Discovering the Seseragiya Crafts Museum

Location: Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi Pref., Japan
Timestamp: 11:37・2024/03/20

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
28 mm ISO 100 for 2.0 sec. at ƒ/11

Exploring the Saiko Iyashi-no-Sato Nenba open-air museum is like stepping back into a time of traditional Japanese culture. 

One of restored thatched roof buildings, Seseragiya (せせらぎ屋), not only showcases traditional Japanese handicrafts but also serves as a hub for workshops where visitors, including local school children, can learn the art of crafting traditional toys from wood or bamboo. 

From the melodies of a Japanese warbler whistle (うぐいす笛) to the charm of a cicada spinner whistle (ブンブンセミ), Seseragiya offers a hands-on experience to learn some of the craftsmanship of toys of yesteryears.

In the attached photo, the enchanting Hina-matsuri display steals the show, commemorating the health and happiness of young girls and women during for the Girl’s Day holiday. 

Modeled after a Heian Period (794 to 1185) wedding, the display features meticulously arranged tiers, with the Emperor and Empress gracing the uppermost tier, surrounded by court attendants and musicians adorned in traditional attire. 

The intricate details of the dolls and tiers can vary widely, from simple folded paper figurines to exquisitely carved three-dimensional masterpieces, depending on one’s budget—unless one is fortunate enough to inherit an exquisite family heirloom from parents or grandparents.

In this shot, we can also see a traditional cast iron kettle hanging from a pothook over a sunken hearth. In a traditional house, the hearth (irori) was used to provide heat, light, and in many cases a place for cooking with the use of a tripod, or suspended from the beams above using a pothook.

Depending on one’s social status, the design of the irori varied significantly. For those of lower classes, an irori might have been a simple pit dug directly into the dirt floor, partially filled with sand and ash, and edged with stones or timber. Conversely, higher-class households boasted irori constructed around a raised floor, adorned with edging crafted from wood, metal, or occasionally stone.

Among the lower classes, the irony served as the focal point of everyday life, where meals were shared and informal visitors entertained. In contrast, upper-class households might have boasted multiple irori, including some in kitchens or tea houses attached to the main residence.

Whether marveling at the elegance of Heian Period dolls or relaxing to the rustic charm of a traditional hearth, Saiko Iyashi-no-Sato Nenba allows you to immerse yourself in a few of the timeless traditions of Japan's cultural heritage.

Terms:
  • ブンブンセミ (bunbun-semi): Cicada spinner whistle
  • うぐいす笛 (uguisu-fue): Japanese warbler whistle
  • 雛祭り (Hinamatsuri): Doll's Day or Girls' Day
  • 鉄瓶 (tetsubin): Japanese cast iron kettle
  • 囲炉裏, 居炉裏 (irori): a traditional Japanese sunken hearth fired with charcoal
  • 自在鉤 (jizaikagi): pothook—an iron rod within a bamboo tube – used for raising or lowering a suspended pot or kettle by means of an attached lever which is often decoratively designed in the shape of a fish.
References:

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Seiryutei Tea House

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Nenba Village: Where Tragedy Led to Cultural Renewal

Location: Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi Pref., Japan
Timestamp: 11:29・2024/03/20

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
63 mm ISO 100 for 1/20 sec. at ƒ/8

Nenba Village, also known as "Saiko Iyashi-no-Sato Nenba," stands as a testament to resilience, nestled in Minamitsuru Village on the western shores of Saiko Lake in Yamanashi Prefecture. 

Originally known as Ashiwada Village, it flourished as a center for the silkworm industry, with the distinctive feature of glass windows on the second floors of its thatched-roof homes, where silkworms were diligently raised for their silk.

Tragedy struck on September 25, 1966, when a devastating mudslide, triggered by the relentless rains of Typhoon No. 26, cascaded down the mountain, engulfing the entire village in a sea of mud. 

The magnitude of the catastrophe prompted a massive rescue operation, with over 16,000 personnel from the Self-Defense Forces tirelessly searching for survivors until October 7th. 

Despite their efforts, the toll was grim: 94 lives lost, with 13 souls never to be found. The grim aftermath saw Lake Saiko become an unexpected resting place for both human and animal victims, with many cows tragically buried in the mud.

Decades later, amidst the distant echoes of tragedy, the villagers rallied to resurrect their once-thriving community. In 2006, the transformation began with the establishment of an open-air museum, initially comprising a handful of restored structures. 

Today, visitors can wander through approximately 20 meticulously reconstructed thatched-roof houses, each serving a unique purpose as souvenir shops, restaurants, sweet shops, craft exhibits, and museums. Notably, in 2011, the former main house of the Watanabe family which is nestled in the northwest corner of the village, earned recognition as a national registered Tangible Cultural Property, anchoring the village's historical significance.

One such enchanting spot within the village is the traditional Seiryutei Tea House (see photo). Seiryutei Tea House, once a humble abode from the Edo Period, now invites visitors to savor the essence of Japanese hospitality with a tantalizing array of delicacies. From Japanese matcha sweets to homemade soy milk pudding and sweet rice dumplings (dango), the menu offers a delectable journey through local flavors. Additionally, guests can indulge in light meals, featuring seasonal vegetable curries crafted from freshly harvested produce sourced from nearby fields.

Entry to the museum is affordably priced at 500 yen, with ample free parking nearby. The museum's allure transcends borders, drawing a diverse array of tourists, with over 80% hailing from overseas, according to a local shop owner. 

In conclusion, Nanba Village stands as a testament to the resilience of the human spirit, where tragedy has been transformed into triumph through community effort and preservation. As you traverse the stone and dirt paths and explore the quaint thatched-roof houses, you're not just witnessing history—you're becoming a part of it.

- 茶処: chadokoro > tea house
- 青龍亭: Seiryutei > Name of shop
- 旧渡辺家住宅主屋: Kyu-Watanabe-ke Jutaku Shuoku

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Ryugu Cave

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From Desolation to Renewal: The Resilience of Nature in the Dragon Cave and Aokigahara-Jukai Forest

Location: Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi, Japan
Timestamp: 10:48・2024/03/20

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
28 mm ISO 100 for 0.4 sec. at ƒ/10

Exploring the wide gaping mouth of the Dragon Cave (竜宮洞穴・Ryugu-Doketsu) provided me with an opportunity for intimate observation of the lava rock texture, evoking a profound appreciation for the awesome power of Mother Nature. Centuries-old hardened lava slowly eroded by the elements offers a vivid glimpse into the geological history of the region. The colors and textures of the rock bear witness to the complex interplay of minerals, gasses, and temperatures during the Jogan eruption of Mt. Fuji in 864 CE.

In stark contrast to the purplish-black and dark gray tones of the lava rock, which once symbolized a smoldering apocalypse, the landscape now teems with life. Varied tones of green moss and lichen adorn the rocky terrain, their presence signaling the gradual transformation from desolation to renewal. The once-barren land has given rise to the lush expanse of the Aokigahara-Jukai Forest, a testament to nature's resilience and capacity for regeneration.

As the forest flourished, so too did its inhabitants. Asian black bears, deer, foxes, boars, Japanese minks, and an array of bird and insect species now call this sanctuary home. Thanks to restrictions on tourist access and limited development, the forest remains a haven for biodiversity, attracting nature enthusiasts and researchers alike.

For those inspired to explore this remarkable landscape, Google Maps links and additional resources in English are available for further reading and planning (see below). The Dragon Cave and its surrounding environs stand as a testament to the enduring power and beauty of the natural world, inviting visitors to immerse themselves in its wonders.

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