Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
34 mm ISO 100 for 2 sec. at ƒ/11
New Year’s Holiday Ikonahime-no-Mikoto Shrine Before Sunrise
Location: Shirahama, Shimoda, Shizuoka, Japan
Timestamp: 05:32 on January 3, 2024
Ikonahime-no-Mikoto Shrine (伊古奈比咩命神社), colloquially called Shirahama Shrine (白浜神社), is located next to the beautiful Shirahama Beach on the eastern coast of the Izu Peninsula. It is about 175 km (107 mi) southwest of Tokyo. I reached the beach in less than three hours by driving through the night, avoiding heavy traffic and ensuring access to an empty parking space.
Historical records make reference to this shrine as far back as 392 BCE, making it 2,415 years old. This shrine complex is the oldest one on the Izu Peninsula.
In this shot, we can see the main worship hall, which was rebuilt in 1860. The main sanctuary that houses the shintai (an object believed to contain the spirit of a deity) is up at the top of the hill behind the main hall.
Visitors to can pray for the following at this shrine:
・Warding off evil spirits
・Successful marriage
・Maritime safety
・Good luck in making large fish catches
・Prosperous business endeavors
・Safe delivery of a newborn
・Traffic safety
・Family safety
As the shrine welcomes visitors for the New Year's holidays, a special purification ritual called chinowa-kuguri (茅の輪くぐり) takes place. Participants step through a big hoop of grass three times in a figure 8 fashion, cleansing themselves of any impurities and praying for sound health.
Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
28 mm ISO 100 for 2 sec. at ƒ/11
Shrine Courtyard Before Sunrise
Location: Shirahama, Shimoda, Shizuoka, Japan
Timestamp: 05:36 on January 3, 2024
Check out the historic Ikonahime-no-Mikoto Shrine, aka Shirahama Shrine, on the Izu Peninsula. The shrine's colloquial name comes from the gorgeous white sandy beach nearby of Shirahama Beach (“Shirahama" literally means “white beach” in Japanese).
In the photo, you've got your usual Shinto shrine courtyard with a neatly trimmed pine tree, some stone fencing, hanging paper lanterns, and my personal favorite, moss-covered stone lanterns.
The use of stone lanterns (石灯籠・ishi-doro) originated in China where they were lined up and used to light the path to a Buddhist temple. Their use spread to Japan where they were adopted for use at Shinto shrines from around the 6th century. Fast forward to the 16th century, and Japanese tea masters were all about stone lanterns, creating new designs just for their tea gardens.
Nowadays, we can see a wide range of designs and materials used for lanterns at both Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines including but not limited to hanging metal lanterns (釣灯籠・tsuri-doro), paper lanterns (提灯・chochin), and more.
I'm a huge fan of stone lanterns, especially when they're worn with age and sport a coat of moss. They might seem like simple stone carvings at first, but there are said to be nine major categories of stone lanterns, and over 75 sub-categories! Even simple lantern designs like the ones in my photo can have around 20 specifically named parts.
Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
28 mm ISO 100 for 0.5 sec. at ƒ/8.0
Torii Gate on Reef Facing the Rising Sun
Location: Shirahama, Shimoda, Shizuoka, Japan
Timestamp: 06:30 on January 3, 2024
Located within a 3-hour drive of Tokyo, Shirahama Beach is a popular destination for beachgoers and surfers during the summer. While surfers are still present during the colder months, the beach is mostly empty, providing an opportunity to experience long stretches of sand free of human footprints.
At the northern end of the beach lies Daimyojin-Iwa (大明神岩), roughly translated to “rock of deity with extraordinary spiritual powers.” Atop Daimyoji Iwa stands a red torii gate facing the sea. The torii belongs to Ikona-hime-no-Mikotojinja Shrine, commonly known as Shirahama Shrine, the oldest Shinto shrine on the Izu Peninsula, and is only a 2-minute walk from the shoreline.
During midday, you can enjoy the lovely white sands and deep turquoise sea that stand in stark contrast with the red torii gate. If you visit early in the morning, however, you can experience beautiful skies and a sandy shore blanketed in a soft coral pink hue.
Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
37 mm ISO 400 for 1/200 sec. at ƒ/5.0
Torii Gate and Shimenawa Rope: Gateway to the Sacred
Location: Shirahama Beach, Shimoda, Shizuoka, Japan
Timestamp: 06:42 on January 3, 2024
On the northern end of Shirahama Beach in Shizuoka Prefecture, two reefs extend into the sea, connected by a shimenawa rope (注連縄), crafted from rice straw or hemp. In this specific location, the rope serves to demarcate consecrated areas, acting as a talisman against evil and symbolizing the transition from the earthly world to the sacred one.
The reef on the right is named Daimyojin-Iwa, roughly translated as the "rock of deity with extraordinary spiritual powers." It features a torii gate facing the sea, directing its gaze towards the 10 islands located off the Izu coast.
The torii gate and sacred shrine rope are integral components of the nearby Ikona-hime-no-Mikotojinja Shrine, commonly known as Shirahama Shrine. This shrine holds the distinction of being the oldest Shinto shrine on the Izu Peninsula. Its theological focus revolves around the origin legends of the 10 Izu islands situated offshore.
The island gods and the deities housed within the shrine are interconnected within a complex familial web. This intricate relationship is reflected in the vermilion torii gate, which points seaward in the direction of the 10 islands.
The Japanese New Year festivities center around witnessing a sunrise and visiting a shrine with loved ones to express gratitude and seek blessings for the upcoming year. At Shirahama Beach, you can embrace both experiences – capturing a stunning sunrise and conveniently visiting the nearby Shirahma Shrine.
Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
31 mm ISO 800 for 1/640 sec. at ƒ8.0
Reflections on 40 Years: New Year's Daybreak at Shirahama
Location: Shirahama Beach, Shimoda, Shizuoka, Japan
Timestamp: 06:56 on January 3, 2024
My first visit to Shirahama Beach on the western coast of the Izu Peninsula located 175 km (107 mi) southwest of Tokyo was in the late 1980s. Barbecues on the beach, following a day of swimming or surfing, were popular back then. Unfortunately, as time passed, some beachgoers neglected to clean up after themselves, leading to the prohibition of beachside barbecues by the late 90s.
In response, local merchants and entrepreneurs initiated delivery services for food, drinks, beach umbrellas, and inflatable floats. They also patrolled the beach for litterbugs. Overall, this change significantly improved the beach's cleanliness for almost two decades now.
Most of my beach visits have been in summer, with a few during winter. However, this year marked my first New Year's holiday visit. After tending to the family graveyard, I took the scenic route home, making stops at Shirahama Beach and Shirahama Shrine for the traditional New Year's shrine visit (初詣・hatsumode) and to witness the first sunrise of the year (初日の出・hatsuhinode). Despite the usual recommendation to observe hatsuhinode on January 1st, I waited until January 3rd to avoid the beach crowds and heavy traffic back to Tokyo.
Setting up my camera and tripod for this shot, I paused to reflect. The crashing waves, gentle flow of seawater around beach stones, and the warm glow of the rising sun created a serene atmosphere. Amidst the fresh ocean breeze, contemplating my fortunes over the past 40 years, I found myself captivated by nature's beauty and felt grateful for the chance to appreciate this moment.
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 800 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/2.0
Film simulation: Astia/Soft
Shinto Shrine after Sunrise during New Year’s Holidays
Location: Shirahama, Shimoda, Shizuoka, Japan
Timestamp: 07:30 on January 3, 2024
Step into the 2,400-year-history of Ikonahime-no-Mikoto Shrine, commonly known as Shirahama Shrine, where time seems to have left its mark on the weathered tiles and wooden elements of the shrine. As you enter the sacred grounds, the sacred objects lining the walkway to the shrine are a testament of the shrine’s history as it stands as the oldest shrine on the Izu Peninsula. The worship hall the shrine complex is not just a structure; it's a living testament to resilience, having weathered the onslaught of annual tropical storms and salty winds from the nearby Shirahama Beach.
Coming back to the shrine after sunrise, the number of visitors picked up as the vibe transitioned into its New Year's festivities. A focal point is the large grass hoop, the chinowa-kuguri ((茅の輪くぐり), inviting visitors to partake in a ritual where you walk through the hoop three times in a figure-eight fashion, cleansing yourself of impurities and sending prayers for robust health.
As you gaze beyond the chinowa-kuguri, you’ll see that the base of the main worship hall is adorned in a traditional Japanese curtain known as a kohaku-maku ((紅白幕). The red and white vertical stripes are a symbol of happiness. In this ancient pattern, red signifies peace and prosperity, while white represents both spiritual and physical purity.
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/90 sec. at ƒ/8.0
Film simulation: Velvia/Vivid
Sacred Spaces and Cultural Grace: Navigating Japanese Shrine Etiquette
Location: Shirahama, Shimoda, Shizuoka, Japan
Timestamp: 07:40 on January 3, 2024
Ancient documents dating over 2,400 years reference this shrine, suggesting an age surpassing 2,400 years. Like many Japanese temples and shrines, some structures are reconstructed due to earthquakes, fire, or periodic disassembly for inspection and improvement, ensuring both longevity and the preservation of traditional Japanese building techniques.
The worship hall seen in my photo was last rebuilt in 1860, and the sanctuary on the hill behind the worship hall and housing the deity was reconstructed in 1922.
Visitors during New Year's adhere to traditional steps followed at any time of the year. Regional customs may vary, but general worship practices and etiquettes apply to every shrine.
It is appropriate to dress in a way that is slightly more conservative. Shorts, skirts, and dresses at knee-length are fine. Just avoid wearing revealing or tight-fitting clothes (such as tank tops, sweats and workout clothes) out of respect for the cultural setting. Remember, these are sacred sites—not a shopping mall or amusement park.
When you pass under the torii gate, which marks where the realm of Shinto kami (deity) begins and separates it from the secular world, prepare your mind and your heart, calm yourself, and appreciate everything around you, be it visible or not.
At the torii gate, show your respect by taking your hat off if you wear one and bowing once before passing through.
Be mindful to walk on the left side of the way, as the center of the approach is said to be the “place where the kami pass.”
At the water basin (temizuya or chozuya), purify yourself by scooping water to wash your free hand and then switch the ladle to wash your other hand. Pour some water in your empty hand and rinse out your mouth. Follow the actions of the Japanese around you and will be fine.
Proceed to the main hall for worship. The customary routine involves bowing twice, clapping twice, and bowing once. Make a monetary offering, often a 5-yen coin is used as it symbolizes luck.
Shinto shrines cater to common needs, managing centuries-old traditions and festivals. Japanese embrace diverse traditions without strict religious adherence, enjoying aesthetics like Christian weddings and festivities, and follow Buddhism for matters of the afterlife. These cultural adoptions allow appreciation without religious affiliation.
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/140 sec. at ƒ/8.0
Film simulation: Velvia/Vivid
Vermilion Torii of Shirahama Shrine: Gateway to the Sacred
Location: Shirahama, Shimoda, Shizuoka, Japan
Timestamp: 07:43 on January 3, 2024
A torii gate is a formalized gateway arch signifying entrance to a sacred area. Shrines may have one or more torii, such as here at Shirahama Shrine, where there are at least three. When multiple torii are present, the largest one is normally called the “Ichi-no-Torii” (first torii gate) and stands at the sando or approachway to the shrine grounds and courtyard.
Torii may also be found at various points within the precincts of the shrine to indicate increasing levels of sanctitude as one approaches the (本殿・honden), which is often located farthest from the entrance of the shrine grounds and behind the worship hall (拝殿・haiden).
Based on their present-day function, torii express the division between the profane and sacred realms. They are found not only at shrines but also at Buddhist temples, as seen in the famous stone torii of the temple Shitenno-ji in Osaka. However, when used as a map symbol, they generally signify the presence of a Shinto shrine as opposed to a Buddhist temple.
With the rise of Buddhist-Shinto syncretism in the 12th century, Shinto shrines began to appear within the grounds of Buddhist temples. Even then, torii were used to mark the entrances to such shrines. The origin of torii is unclear. In the writings of “The Inventory of the Properties of Otori Jinja in Izumi,” dated 922, there are references to torii that lead some scholars to propose that torii originated in Japan.
Regardless of the origin, torii in Japan share mostly similar basic designs with two upright posts topped by a horizontal cap beam (笠木・kasagi) that extends beyond the posts on either side. Beneath the kasagi, a horizontal tie beam (貫・nuki) is laced around the uprights and links them together.
Among the infinite variety of torii named for unique characteristics or the name of a specific shrine itself, basically all torii can be classified under two major categories: those with straight members, shinmei torii (神明鳥居), and those with curved members, myojin torii (明神鳥居).
The main torii of Shirahama Shrine, as seen in my photo, most closely resembles a myojin classification based on the following observations. See if you can identify these same specifications in the photo!
- The top lintel (笠木・kasagi) has a strong upward curve.
- The ends of both the top and secondary lintel (島木・shimaki) are cut with a downward slant.
- The tie beam (貫・nuki) is straight, rectangular in section, and secured by wedges (楔・kusabi) inserted into each side of the pillars.
- A strut covered with a framed inscribed panel (額束・gakuzuka) is attached at the center between the secondary lintel and the tie beam. (The inscription panel in my photo reads “白濱神社・Shirahama-Jinja or Shirahama Shrine in English.)
Finally, myojin torii can be made of stone, wood, or concrete or PVC (in the modern period) and are painted vermilion, although I have seen a few painted black.
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