Embrace of Autumn: Vibrant Reds and Twisted Arms of Momiji 庭先の紅葉：鮮やかな赤とねじれ曲がった枝
After a long hike across trails weaving over rivers and across the steep slopes of Hikawa Gorge, we finally made our way back towards the parking lot, content from capturing the autumn colors of the gorge from Moegi-bashi Bridge.
As we retraced our steps, I stumbled upon an old Japanese maple tree (紅葉・momiji), its branches twisting skyward from the yard of a house nestled atop a steep slope above the Tama River.
The fortunate residents of this home are able to wake up each day to a a lovely panorama of vibrant, lush forests sprawled across the opposing slopes of the gorge, with the Tama River gently winding far below.
I would love to wake up to such a view every morning, if only building an earthquake-resistant home in this picturesque location were within reach.
The Okutama region features two major steep ravines formed by the Nippara and Tama Rivers. These steep gorges, collectively known as Hikawa Gorge (氷川渝谷), have limited industrial development, preserving much of the natural landscape.
The forests and landscapes of Hikawa Gorge have been further protected from industrial development and large-scale logging by Tokyo Prefecture to maintain the purity of the water, as these headwaters are a primary source of Tokyo’s drinking water.
In 1944, Okutama Station (originally named Hikawa Station) on the JR Ome Line was established to help locals develop a tourist industry focused on the region's rich scenery. For decades after the station’s opening, development of tourist-oriented infrastructure progressed slowly.
In fact, a friend who visited the area as a boy in the 1970s recalled fishing, hiking, and enjoying the outdoors. Back then, there were no developed campsites, large parking lots, and most hiking trails were basic footpaths with little to no safety railings or protections against landslides.
Nowadays, the paths are well-maintained and developed to such a degree that they are easily accessible to both young and old. Numerous suspension bridges allow visitors to safely explore all the trails while enjoying grand views of the gorges, which are especially popular during the autumn season.
Moegi Bridge: A Scenic Crossing to Autumn Splendor 紅葉風景へのもえぎ橋
Located within a short 8-minute walk from Oku-Tama Station, Moegi Bridge, a pedestrian suspension bridge, offers stunning views of Hikawa Gorge, especially during autumn. Although a little late in the autumn season, the landscape of colors along the steep shores of the Tama River headwaters in the rural town of Okutama, Tokyo Prefecture, created a photogenic scene that immediately caught my eye.
Next year, I hope to visit a few weeks earlier in the season to catch the vidid reds and oranges that have mostly faded from this scene.
Moegi Bridge (もえぎ橋・Moegi-bashi), which opened in July 1998, made it easier for local hikers and campers to cross the Tama River and access the popular hot spring resort, Moegi-no-Yu.
This pedestrian bridge is similar to the other suspension bridges I traversed on this photowalk, all lightweight structures with no truss or girders, making them susceptible to strong winds. To counteract strong winds, many of the pedestrian bridges in Hikawa Gorge incorporate stretched cables attached to the deck to help control torsional vibrations.
When bridges sway too much, my border collie gets scared and refuses to cross with me. On this day, she confidently crossed all three suspension bridges without fear!
Old Money Architecture: Glimpse into a Traditional Japanese Storehouse 古い蔵—祖先の富の象徴
A traditional white Japanese kura, or storehouse, stands with its characteristic earthen walls, designed for fire prevention. The back proudly displays a decorative crest, visible to hikers on the Toke Trail, indicating the heritage of the family, who likely reside in the adjacent house. This charming scene is set deep in a serene mountain village in the westernmost part of Tokyo Prefecture, Japan.
A kura is a type of traditional storehouse built to protect valuables from fire, a significant risk for traditional Japanese wooden houses. The structure typically features a wooden frame covered with 20 to 30 cm thick mud daub, finished with a smooth coat of white or black plaster. The roof’s extended eaves protect the plaster from heavy rains.
Openings are minimal, with only a few small windows for security. Today, spotting a kura still in use is a testament to a family's ancesteral wealth, as it not only signified the need to protect valuables but also the resources to build and maintain such a robust structure.
Beyond valuables, the thick earthen walls helped maintain a stable internal temperature, making the kura ideal for storing rice, wine, sake, soy sauce, and similar goods.
The decorative crest on the back of the storehouse in my photo most likely reads "Yamada" (山田), translating to "mountain" + "rice paddy/field." I appreciate how the kanji for "yama" (山・mountain) is replaced with two mountain peaks above the character for "da" (田・rice paddy/field). Written vertically, it evokes an image of fields nestled below mountain peaks, reflecting the actual landscape along this part of the Toke Trail.
The surrounding land is farmland, suggesting that the Yamada family has deep roots in this mountain village, possibly deriving their name from ancestors who farmed these mountain slopes centuries ago.
Jizo Bodhisattva & “23rd Night” Stone Tablet 地蔵尊と「二十三夜塔」
Leaving the Toke Trail, I climbed down from the nearby mountain into a small mountain farming village before traversing one more peak to reach the parking lot. It was here that I came across this very typical rural scene.
※ Bodhisattva Seishi (Tsukuyomi-no-Mikoto)
On the far left and right are stone engravings of Bodhisattva Seishi, a Buddhist deity believed to be the incarnation of the moon. It is said that the light of wisdom Bodhisattva Seishi possesses illuminates everything, freeing people from suffering and giving them strength.
In the Shinto tradition, this deity is also known as Tsukuyomi-no-Mikoto (月読尊) who is the god of the moon in Japanese mythology, and is also revered as the god of agriculture and fishing.
Second from the right is a stone lantern with an engraving I couldn’t decipher.
※ Jizo Bodhisattva (O-Jizō-sama)
In the middle are two Jizo Bodhisattva statues with red hoods. Affectionately known in Japan as O-Jizō-sama (お地蔵様) or Jizō-san, this beloved Japanese divinity is the patron of children, expectant mothers, firemen, travelers, and pilgrims.
O-Jizō-sama represents the Buddhist Bodhisattva who has vowed to delay his own Buddha-hood until all suffering souls are freed from the underworld. He is often depicted as a humble monk.
Throughout Japan, you can see these statues near cemeteries, roadsides, and hiking trails. They are frequently adorned with red caps and bibs, symbolizing prayers for the safety and well-being of children.
※ 23rd Night Monument
The primary object at this site is the stone tablet with the engraving of 「二十三夜塔」 (23rd Night Monument). This phrase references Tsukimachi (月待ち), a folk tradition where local villagers would gather to eat and drink while waiting for the moon to rise on the 23rd day of the lunar month to pray for a bountiful harvest.
Since the location was used for the village gathering of Tsukimachi, it became clear to me why there were two Bodhisattva Seishi and two O-Jizo-sama statues.
Tsukimachi was actively practiced from the Edo period (1603-1868) to the early Showa period (1926-1989), but it has almost completely disappeared in modern times.
In our day and age, smartphones and cameras are used to take commemorative photos when friends and communities gather to record tangible memories. However, during the heyday of Tsukimachi, instead of taking a photo, building a stone tablet was the way to commemorate such gatherings.
Autumn Splendor: Vibrant Reds and Oranges on the Toke Trail
奥多摩の登計トレイル：鮮やかな赤とオレンジの紅葉
This intimate shot of a small canopy of vibrant reds and oranges in full autumn splendor frames a narrow footpath along the Toke Trail, which winds through the lush forest of Hikawa Gorge in Tokyo Prefecture, Japan.
The trail spans about 1.3 km, with a gentle elevation change of 50 meters, making it accessible for elderly visitors and children. Additionally, approximately 420 meters of the trail is barrier-free, allowing easy access for visitors using wheelchairs or young mothers with baby strollers.
The Toke Trail holds the distinction of being Japan's first therapy-only trail, thoughtfully designed with small facilities to support various wellness activities such as yoga, zazen, self-counseling, and hydrotherapy. Sections of the trail are adorned with freshly scattered fragrant hinoki wood chips, their soothing aroma filling the air and enhancing the tranquil experience.
The trail also features small open-roofed shelters, initially intended for bird watching, which double as shaded rest spots offering scenic views.
Throughout Hikawa Gorge, most slopes are blanketed by dense sugi forests, with only occasional patches of autumn color dotting the landscape. In this particular shot, a cluster of shrubs with vibrant reds and oranges stood out strikingly. By filling my frame with these eye-catching hues, I aimed to convey the intensity of the beautiful colors I encountered during this photowalk.
Golden Solitude: The Splendor of a Lone Ginkgo 奥多摩の秋風景：輝くひとりイチョウ
After completing my photowalk along the Nippara and Tama Rivers through Hikawa Gorge, I emerged from the mountain trail and stumbled upon a small village. There, I discovered a large athletic park where locals gathered to play baseball and soccer.
From the park, I had a clear view of a lone ginkgo tree, its vibrant autumn colors standing out against a backdrop of lush evergreens on the opposite hillside. This picturesque scene was set in the quaint mountain town of Okutama, nestled in Tokyo Prefecture, Japan.
