Pix4Japan

2024-09-11

Tateshina-Otaki Falls

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Tateshina-Otaki Falls: Exploring the Emerald Waters Before Autumn’s Arrival

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秋の前に訪れた、エメラルド色の蓼科大滝

Location: Chino, Nagano Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 09:39・2024/09/11
Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP + 10-stop ND filter
28 mm ISO 100 for 1/15 sec. at ƒ/9.0

The Tateshina-Otaki waterfall is a popular destination for visitors and photographers, especially during the vibrant autumn season. However, visiting just before the arrival of fall’s onslaught of colors gave me the freedom to explore the waterfall at my own pace, experimenting with various compositions without the worry of interrupting someone else's shot.

The falls are easily accessible from the Pool Daira Parking Lot, with just a short 10- to 20-minute walk. The trail takes you through a section of the Tateshina-Genserin Primeval Forest, skirting the shoreline of the Takinoyu River, which flows downstream from the falls.

This ancient forest is abundant with old-growth trees, their contorted shapes and immense age calling for quiet reflection. I found that what should have been a brief 10-minute walk stretched longer as the forest invited me to pause and wonder about the forces that shaped these trees.

Standing at about 25 meters tall (82 feet) and 10 meters wide (32 feet), Tateshina-Otaki is one of the largest waterfalls along the Takinoyu River. Despite its relatively modest size, the waterfall's charm lies in its serene setting.

The cool mist rising from the falls settles on the nearby foliage and coats the exposed rocks in glistening droplets, transforming the amphitheater of stone into a living spectacle of olive-green moss. The cold, hard surfaces of the rocks, brought to life by this moisture, become miniature worlds of thriving life.

The deep, crystal-clear emerald pool below the falls immediately reminded me of the tones and hues I had seen just hours earlier at Mishaka-Ike Pond (see earlier posts) during this same photo shoot. The resemblance between the two places was striking, though each had its own unique character.

Though the falls offer a covered viewing point nearby complete with benches and a table, it was hard to resist the temptation to explore further. Should you, like me, decide to venture closer even downstream into the flowing stream, be sure to wear proper footwear and take extra care—the wet stone surfaces can be quite slippery.

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Tateshina-Otaki Waterfall

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Beneath the Dappled Light: Finding Healing at Tateshina-Otaki Falls

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木漏れ日の蓼科大滝：自然が織りなす癒しの瞬間

Location: Chino, Nagano Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 09:23・2024/09/11
Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP + 10-stop ND filter
28 mm ISO 200 for 1.3 sec. at ƒ/11

Visiting this landscape on a cool, sunny day offered a welcome relief from the nearly relentless heatwaves we were enduring in the concrete jungles of the Tokyo metropolis. The air here felt alive, in stark contrast to the stifling city.

This photograph of the falls, while far from my best work, brings to mind the frustration I felt that day. The scene was challenging, filled with a chaotic mix of sharp angles, extremes of light and shadow, and a cacophony of dark and blown-out greens. No matter how I framed it, I couldn’t seem to balance the composition to my liking.

At some point, I told myself to just stop—stop overanalyzing, stop worrying about the flaws and what others might think. I was robbing myself of the moment.

I wandered over to my border collie, Dale-chan, and we sat by the water’s edge. I allowed the symphony of the crashing falls, the soft rustle of leaves in the breeze, Dale-chan’s relaxed panting, and the faint chirping of birds hidden deep in the forest to wash over me.

In that soundscape, I found clarity—a natural form of noise cancellation, one that stilled the chaotic thoughts racing through the back of my mind. For a moment, I was able to turn off the constant stream of worries from my day job about unanswered emails, deadlines, and sales targets that I had subconsciously brought with me on this photowalk.

When I was a boy scout, I learned how to survive in the wilderness, how to endure Mother Nature’s harsh conditions. But as I grow older, I often need to remind myself that there's more to learn. I hope to better master how to thrive with Mother Nature—to let her thick woods, rugged coastlines, towering mountains, and hidden waterfalls become sources of healing, revitalization, and peace.

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Tateshina-Genseirin Primeval Forest

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Location: Chino, Nagano Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 09:01・2024/09/11
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 2500 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2.0
Provia/Standard film simulation

A Photowalk Through Time: The Untouched Wilderness of Tateshina-Genseirin

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蓼科原生林で楽しむフォトウォーク: 長野の自然を探る

The Tateshina-Genseirin Primeval Forest is a small preserve of old-growth trees stretching about 12 km (7.46 mi) along the shoreline of the Takinoyu River, which flows from the nearby Tateshina-Otaki Falls.

This ancient forest is home to towering trees, their twisted shapes and immense age inspiring quiet reflection. Many of these trees have adapted to grow around large volcanic boulders, their contorted trunks and roots clinging to the rugged stones. These adaptations are a response to the forest's natural challenges, such as typhoon winds, heavy snowfall, and a thin layer of topsoil. Together, these elements form a living testament to the forest's untouched nature and geological history.

The woodland is rich with deciduous trees and ferns, which, combined with its high elevation, help maintain cooler temperatures even in summer. This coolness creates ideal conditions for the growth of ferns, fungi, and moss, adding to the forest's vibrant diversity.

Japan's forest area covers 25.05 million hectares (61.9 million acres), accounting for 68.5% of the country’s total land. However, human impact on forests—through logging, firewood collection, and charcoal production—began as early as 9,000 BCE. As a result, less than 4% of Japan’s forests remain untouched as primeval forest. The Tateshina-Genseirin Primeval Forest is one of these rare treasures, a place to be cherished and preserved for future generations.

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Location: Chino, Nagano Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 09:06・2024/09/11
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 1000 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2.0
Provia/Standard film simulation

Nestled within the heart of Nagano Prefecture, the Tateshina-Genseirin Forest reveals unique scenes of primeval life. Ancient trees twist and curve around volcanic boulders, their roots gripping onto moss-covered stones with quiet determination. This virgin landscape has remained largely untouched for millennia, allowing the forest to thrive in its wild, unspoiled beauty.

In this photo, you can see the interplay of life and stone—a magnificent tree growing in harmony with the terrain, sculpted by the forces of nature, revealing its remarkable resilience. Walking through this forest felt like stepping back in time, where the air was crisp, and the ground was soft beneath my feet, inviting moments of peace and reflection.

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Location: Chino, Nagano Prefecture, Japan

Timestamp: 09:01・2024/09/11

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 1000 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2.0

Provia/Standard film simulation

Located in the heart of Nagano Prefecture, just a 3- to 4-hour drive from Tokyo, the Tateshina-Genseirin Primeval Forest is a living testament to nature’s resilience. Some of the ancient trees, wrapped with thick vines, twist and bend around volcanic boulders, their roots gripping moss-covered stones. These roots spread across the thin layer of topsoil, which rests atop an ancient lava flow. Untouched for millennia, this virgin forest thrives in wild, unspoiled beauty, a reflection of nature's enduring strength when it remains free of mankind’s interference.

In this photo, a sugi tree (Japanese cedar) stands with two main trunks, one of which twists sharply to the left—likely the result of heavy snow, typhoon winds, or even a previous toppling due to the shallow topsoil over the lava flow. Despite these forces, the trunk eventually straightened and reached skyward, its thick and strong form a testament to its persistence. To me, this serves as a metaphor: even when life’s challenges or setbacks cause us to veer off course, with patience and resilience, we too can find our way back, growing stronger and rising toward the light despite our imperfections.

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Location: Chino, Nagano Prefecture, Japan

Timestamp: 09:01・2024/09/11

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 3200 for 1/40 sec. at ƒ/2.0

Provia/Standard film simulation

The Tateshina-Genseirin Primeval Forest is home to ancient trees that twist and curve around volcanic boulders, forming surreal, natural sculptures. Wrapped in thick bark and moss, these trees create shapes only possible in an untouched forest, free from human interference. In this close-up shot, I removed the broader context to focus on the intricate contrast of textures, from the weathered wood to the moss-covered stone, highlighting the interplay of colors and the calming, yet rugged mood of the scene.

A close-up of an ancient Japanese sugi tree with weathered, twisted bark resting against a large volcanic boulder. The upper half of the image features the rugged, textured bark, while the lower half shows the smooth surface of the boulder, accented with patches of green moss and subtle cracks.

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Akiakane Dragonfly

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Fauna of Mishaka-Ike Pond: Akiakane Dragonfly

「秋の季の赤蜻蛉に定まりぬ」

Location: Chino, Nagano Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 08:06・2024/09/11
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 320 for 1/900 sec. at ƒ/3.6
Velvia/Vivid film simulation

While wrapping up my photo walk along the shore of Mishaka-Ike Pond in Nagano Prefecture, Japan, I came across several akiakane dragonflies (Sympetrum frequens), also known as Autumn darters, perched atop the barrier fence posts lining the northern shoreline of the pond.

The Autumn darter is a species endemic to Japan. These dragonflies migrate to high mountains, where they feed, before descending to lower-altitude bodies of water like ponds or rice fields to breed.

In Japan, akiakane dragonflies are often associated with the arrival of autumn. One well-known haiku by Kaya Shirao (加舎白雄, 1738–1791) even references the dragonfly:

秋の季の (aki no ki no)
赤蜻蛉に (aka tonbo-u ni)
定まりぬ (sadamirinu)

The start of autumn
Is always decided by
The red dragonfly.

Dragonflies also symbolize courage, strength, and happiness in Japanese culture. Personally, I love how different species of dragonflies display vivid colors and patterns, from reds and blues to greens. I especially admire their flight and their distinctive double set of wings.

The dragonfly in my photo appeared to be drinking dew droplets that had collected on the post. This might explain why it didn’t fly away, unlike many of the others I tried to photograph earlier.

Getting close enough to this dragonfly without disturbing it was challenging. The fixed lens on my camera didn’t allow me to zoom in, so I had to move in physically. Naturally, this is a cropped image—the actual distance from the dragonfly was about half an arm’s length.

The iconic akiakane dragonfly uses flooded rice paddies during the nymph stage of its lifecycle. Unfortunately, as of 2020, broad-spectrum pesticides, including neonicotinoids, are still used in rice farming in Japan. These chemicals, though banned in some other countries, are toxic to dragonflies and other aquatic life in ponds, lakes, and streams where agricultural runoff accumulates.

The fact that I saw so many akiakane around this pond may indicate that local rice paddies are not heavily reliant on such pesticides. If so, it’s a positive sign for the area's ecosystem.

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Mishaka-Ike Pond Sunrise

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Touched by the Warmth of Dawn’s Light

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「朝日のぬくもりにそっと包まれた湖面、優しい光が水面に映る瞬間をどうぞご覧ください。」

Location: Chino, Nagano Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 08:04・2024/09/11
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 320 for 1/550 sec. at ƒ/2.8
Provia/Standard film simulation

Earlier, I captured photos of Mishaka-Ike Pond during blue hour, right before my border collie and I ventured off to explore the nearby waterfalls. A couple of hours later, we returned, curious to see how the golden morning light would transform the scene.

Unlike the stillness of dawn, when the pond's surface was as smooth as glass, the air now stirred slightly, creating soft ripples that broke the mirror-like reflections of the surrounding woodlands. The scene had shifted from the cool tones of blue, teal, and turquoise to warmer hues of golden lime, olive, and yellow—an entirely different palette.

Though the reflections weren't as crisp as earlier, I believe first-time visitors would still be delighted by the beauty of the pond and eager to capture its charm for their social media posts if they arrived after sunrise.

Located about 197 km (122 miles) northwest of Tokyo, the pond is a 2- to 3-hour drive via the Chuo Expressway, depending on traffic. Despite its natural appearance, the pond is actually a man-made reservoir, constructed for local farmers. Today, it draws many visitors, with public restrooms conveniently located across the street and two parking lots—one for tour buses and another for private cars.

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Border Collie at Falls

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Trusty Exploring Companion by the Shibu River’s Edge

渋川のほとりで休む頼れる探検パートナー

Location: Chino, Nagano Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 07:16・2024/09/11
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 2000 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2.8
Provia/Standard film simulation

I wrapped up my photo shoot of the Oshidori-Kakushi Falls, tucked away in the upper reaches of the Shibu River, with this serene shot of Dale-chan, my loyal border collie, as she took a much-needed rest after navigating the rocky shoreline.

This peaceful waterfall, embraced by the verdant greenery of Yokoya Gorge in Nagano Prefecture, Japan, provided us both with a refreshing retreat from the constant buzz of life in the Tokyo metropolitan area, a moment of calm amid nature’s embrace.

References:

Google Maps: Oshidori Kakushi Falls (おしどり隠しの滝)

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Rust Red Patina and Chatsubomi Moss

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Rust Red Patina and Chatsubomi Moss of Oshidori-Kakushi Falls

錆びた石とチャツボミゴケ・おしどり隠しの滝

Location: Chino, Nagano Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 06:49・2024/09/11
Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
28 mm ISO 100 for 1/4 sec. at ƒ/11

Overlooking the upper reaches of the Shibu River, this tranquil waterfall is embraced by the lush greenery of Yokoya Gorge in Nagano Prefecture, Japan, offering visitors a connection to both nature and history.

Yokoya Gorge, known by locals as the "Iron Valley," has long been revered for its mineral-rich springs. The waters that flow through the gorge contain high levels of iron carbonate, which oxidize upon contact with air, tinting the rocky riverbeds with a distinct reddish-brown hue. This rust-colored patina reflects on the valley’s long geological history, a history that locals and travelers have admired for generations.

Adding to its beauty, the gorge is home to acidic hot springs, which give life to a unique species of moss known as chatsubomi. This velvety moss thrives in the gorge’s harsh, acidic waters, carpeting the rocks and riverbed in a lush, emerald green. The juxtaposition of the moss against the reddish rocks creates a scene that is both intriguing and vibrant.

For over a century, the nearby Meiji Onsen Ryokan has welcomed travelers seeking both healing and rest. Many of these guests, after a long day of bathing in the rejuvenating hot springs, would wander down to the falls, marveling at the beauty that remains unchanged despite the passage of time.