Pix4Japan

2024-04-09

Gumyoji Temple Belfry

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Resonance of History: Gumyoji Temple's Belfry

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:47・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 160 for 20 sec. at ƒ/11

Classic Negative film simulation

In the serene setting of Gumyoji Temple, the bell suspended within this traditional belfry holds an historical and cultural significance. Recognized as a Yokohama City Tangible Cultural Property, this cast bronze bell is more than just a relic; it is a testament to the temple's enduring legacy.

The bell we see today was re-cast in 1798 for the third time since its inception, meaning that at least two earlier versions once rang across these temple grounds. While the reasons for recasting remain unknown, one can imagine various possibilities. Perhaps the bells were casualties of natural disasters such as earthquakes or fires. It's also possible they were melted down for war efforts or replaced by a benefactor’s request, reflecting the temple’s evolving history and support over the centuries.

One of the common New Year’s traditions in Japan is participating in the Joya-no-Kane at a local temple. This Japanese Buddhist ceremony involves ringing the temple bell 108 times to cleanse ourselves of the earthly desires accumulated over the year. Each strike symbolizes the removal of these desires, aligning with the Buddhist belief that humans are troubled by 108 earthly passions, which must be eradicated to attain peace.

My most recent Joya-no-Kane experience was at Gumyoji Temple on December 31, 2012. The temple was bustling with visitors in stark contrast to my first encounter with this ritual. That initial experience took place in the late 1990s at a quaint rural temple connected to my family's cemetery. There, amidst local families, we all took turns striking the bell under the watchful eye of the monk, who carefully counted each toll by moving 108 stones from a small bag.

As I reflect on these experiences, the serenity and communal spirit of the Joya-no-Kane ceremony resonates with me. Whether in the crowded spaces of Yokohama or the tranquil rural temples of my youth, the ringing of the bell always marks a meaningful transition, a cleansing moment that ushers in the hope and possibilities of a new year.

Glossary

梵鐘・Bonshō: A large, hanging bell at a Japanese Buddhist temple, which is commonly found at Buddhist temples throughout Japan, and used to summon the monks to prayer and to demarcate periods of time. Instead of a clapper, bonshō bells are struck from the outside, using either a handheld mallet or a beam suspended on ropes.
鐘楼堂・Shorodo: Belfry. A building in which a bell bonshō (梵鐘) is hung.
除夜の鐘・Joya-no-Kane: A Japanese Buddhist event held annually on New Year's Eve where a large bell, or bonshō, is struck at midnight of December 31 for 108 times.

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Evening at Gumyoji Temple's Gate

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A Glimpse into the Past: The Niōmon Gate at Gumyoji Temple

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:38・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 160 for 10 sec. at ƒ/11

Classic Negative film simulation

The Niōmon Gate (仁王門), originally built during the Edo period (1603-1868), is a testament to Japan's rich architectural heritage. Such gates, which mark the entrance to many temples and shrines across Japan, stand as a symbol of resilience and cultural continuity. At Gumyoji Temple, the oldest Buddhist temple in Yokohama, the Niōmon Gate was meticulously rebuilt during the Edo period and underwent significant repair work in 2002 to ensure its preservation for future generations.

This photo captures the back side of the Niōmon Gate as seen from top of the stone stairs leading to Gumyoji Temple's sacred grounds. As I ascended the steps, I was struck by the serene beauty of the scene. In the soft evening light, the cherry blossoms swayed gently in the breeze, their delicate petals creating a fleeting dance of bright pink against the backdrop of the stone walls. The long, narrow nobori flags, with their vibrant colors and intricate calligraphy, lined the staircase, each one fluttering in anticipation of upcoming festivals and special events.

The Edo period, a time of relative peace and cultural flourishing in Japan, saw the construction and reconstruction of many significant buildings, including the Niōmon Gate at Gumyoji Temple. This era was marked by a deep appreciation for the arts, and the architectural styles of Niōmon gates found at both famous and obscure temples and shrines throughout Japan. This gate's imposing structure, flanked by two fierce guardian statues, serves as a protective threshold to the sacred temple grounds.

Cherry blossoms, or sakura, have long been celebrated in Japanese culture for their ephemeral beauty and their representation of the fleeting nature of life. Climbing the ancient stone steps to Gumyoji Temple, surrounded by these blossoms, I felt a connection to the past and a sense of peace that transcended time as I imagined millions of Japanese before me climbing the same stairs for the past 979 years.

Whether you're a history enthusiast or simply someone who appreciates the beauty of nature and architecture, the Niōmon Gate at Gumyoji Temple offers a glimpse into the enduring legacy of Japan's cultural heritage.

Glossary

仁王・Niō: The Niō, or "Benevolent Kings," are fierce guardian deities standing vigil at the entrance of Buddhist temples. These powerful figures embody the duality and balance within the universe, and their presence is meant to protect the sacred grounds from evil spirits and negative influences.
門・Mon: A Japanese term for "gate," commonly used to describe the entrances to various types of buildings, including temples, shrines, homes, factories, and other structures.
幟・nobori: A Japanese banner consisting of long, narrow flags, attached to a pole with a cross-rod to hold the fabric straight out and prevent it from furling around the rod allowing the banner to always be visible and identifiable.

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Jokoro Incense Burner

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Sacred Smoke and Symbols: The Incense Burner and Crests of Gumyoji Temple

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:35・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 160 for 10 sec. at ƒ/6.4

Classic Negative film simulation

In this photo, you can see the large, cauldron-shaped incense burner situated at the top of the stairs in front of Gumyoji Temple. Like when visiting a Shinto shrine, visitors are encouraged to purify themselves first. Near the entrance, you’ll typically find a temizuya or chozuya water basin, where you can wash your hands and rinse your mouth. However, unlike at a shrine, Buddhist temples often feature a jokoro or incense burner as well.

You can waft the incense smoke over parts of your body that feel unwell, with the belief that the smoke has healing properties. Directing the smoke toward your head is thought to bring wisdom and mental clarity. When I visited the temple late in the evening, the incense had already burned out, so I couldn’t capture the serene scene of smoke gently drifting over the temple grounds.

On the front of the jokoro, two decorative crests are prominently displayed, serving as distinctive symbols for the temple. Although I couldn’t verify the exact origins or connections of these symbols to Gumyoji Temple, such crests are typically chosen for several reasons. They may reflect legendary ties to the temple's founding monks, the geographical name of the area, or the family crest of a significant monk. They can also indicate an association with the imperial family. Most commonly, these crests adopt the family emblem of a benefactor who provided land for the temple or supported its construction financially.

The first symbol is a gosan-no-kiri crest, which is a traditional Japanese emblem featuring the paulownia plant. The crest typically consists of three leaves and clusters of flowers arranged in a specific pattern of three, five, and three flowers. The crest also serves as the official seal of the Japanese government, specifically the Prime Minister’s office, the Cabinet, and the executive branch of the Japanese government.

The second symbol is the hidari-mitsudomoe, a triple-tomoe motif that flows to the left. This emblem has been part of Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples since the Heian period (794-1185). Although its origins and meanings are not entirely clear, in Japan, it is often seen on roof tiles' eaves. Resembling flowing water and with the kanji for "tomoe" meaning "eddy" or "whirlpool," it is believed to help ward off fire.

Glossary

屋根付外置香炉・Yanetsuki Gaichi Kōro: This is a compound word describing an incense burner with a roof designed for outdoor placement.
常香炉・Jōkōro: A large incense burner that is typically used as part of a purification ritual where worshippers offer incense and bathe in its smoke before proceeding to the main hall of the temple. This ritual cleansing symbolizes purification of the mind and body before entering sacred spaces.
五三桐・Gosan-no-Kiri: a symbolic representation consisting of three leaves and an inflorescence with 3–5–3 flowers, derived from the paulownia tree. Originally a private symbol of the Japanese Imperial Family, Gosan-no-Kiri is now used as a governmental emblem. It has historical ties to imperial patronage, where it was bestowed upon head temples or given to temples by significant patrons.
左三つ巴・Hidari-Mitsudomoe: A three-tomoe symbol with tomoe spinning in the left direction. In Japanese, the character for tomoe (巴) means eddy or whirlpool.

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Gumyoji Temple

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Gumyoji Temple: From 1044 to Today

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:32・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 160 for 4.0 sec. at ƒ/6.4

Classic Negative film simulation

In this photo, we can see the main hall (本堂/Hondo) of Gumyoji Temple. The temple was originally founded on March 10, 1044, by the priest Koei (光慧上人/Koei Shonin). The current main hall, however, was rebuilt in 1766 under the guidance of the priest Chiko.

The building still incorporates some of the original materials from the 1044 structure, such as the hand-carved floorboards, beams, and rafters. Remarkably, after 930 years, the temple transitioned from a thatched roof to copper sheeting in 1976. This change likely reduced the labor needed for maintenance, lowered maintenance costs, and, most importantly, provided better weatherproofing and fire resistance.

The banner hanging from the eaves in front of the temple is a Japanese version of the Buddhist flag, featuring broad vertical stripes of blue, white, red, yellow, and green. Interestingly, I have also observed this banner at Shinto shrines, which likely reflects the historical fusion of Buddhism and Shinto traditions. This fusion was commonplace until 1868 when the Meiji government initiated efforts to separate the two belief systems.

Glossary

本堂/hondo: The main hall of worship at a Buddhist temple housing the principal images most revered by the particular sect of the temple.

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O-Jizo-Sama

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Jizo Bodhisattva: A Beacon of Mercy in Ancient and Modern Japan

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:24・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 160 for 4.0 sec. at ƒ/8

Classic Negative film simulation

Just beyond the Niōmon Gate at Gumyoji Temple, I encountered a serene courtyard adorned with small stone statues of the Jizo Bodhisattva. Revered in Buddhism, Jizo is a beloved figure, often depicted as a gentle monk with a staff and a wish-fulfilling jewel.

These statues symbolize his role as a protector of travelers and a guardian of children, reflecting his compassionate nature and the cultural significance he holds within Buddhist temple grounds.

These small stone statues, affectionately known as O-Jizō-Sama or Jizō-san, represent the Buddhist Bodhisattva who has vowed to delay his own Buddhahood until all suffering souls are freed from the underworld. Jizo, often depicted as a humble monk, is revered as a deity of mercy, offering protection to travelers and children.

Throughout Japan, I have seen these statues near cemeteries and roadsides, frequently adorned with red caps and bibs, which symbolize prayers for the safety and well-being of children. Their presence in the Gumyoji Temple courtyard adds to the tranquil and compassionate atmosphere of the temple.

Jizo Bodhisattva holds a special place as the protector of children, particularly those who are stillborn or die young. In Buddhist tradition, these souls are believed to be in a state of limbo, unable to cross the river to the afterlife. They also dress the statues in red caps and bibs, symbolizing their prayers and the protective power associated with Amida Buddha. Beyond safeguarding children, Jizo is revered as a guardian of travelers, pregnant women, and lost souls, reflecting his boundless compassion and care.

In modern Japan, Jizo statues continue to be adorned with red hats and bibs, and are often surrounded by toys. These offerings are made by parents who believe Jizo has healed their child from a serious illness or to honor the memory of a deceased child, helping their soul in the afterlife. These longstanding customs are complemented by the contemporary practice of Mizuko Jizo, where grieving parents purchase small Jizo statues to pray for the souls of their aborted or miscarried children.

This blend of tradition and modernity highlights the enduring significance of Jizo Bodhisattva in Japanese culture, providing solace and support to families in times of deep emotional need.

Glossary

地藏菩薩 / Jizō Bosatsu: A Bodhisattva who will certainly attain Buddhahood, but for a time, has renounced the blissful state of Nirvana (freedom from suffering), and vowing to remain on earth in various guises (reincarnations) to help all living beings achieve salvation.
お地蔵様・地蔵さん / O-Jizō-sama・Jizō-san: An term of endearment among Japanese for the Jizō Bodhisattva.

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Niōmon Gate

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Gumyoji Temple’s Niōmon Gate: A Journey Through Time

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:19・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 160 for 2.5 sec. at ƒ/8

Classic Negative film simulation

The Niōmon Gate (仁王門), originally built during the Edo period (1603-1868), stands as a reminder of the rich architectural heritage that is abundant throughout Japan. Rebuilt during the Edo period, the gate underwent significant repair work in 2002 to preserve it for future generations.

Above the entranceway, just below the eaves, a plaque inscribed with “山應瑞・Zuiōsan” caught my eye. This inscription, written right-to-left as is traditional, is the work of Sasaki Genryu (Sept. 22, 1650-March 28, 1723), a distinguished calligrapher and envoy who served the Tokugawa Shogunate.

Though not visible in the accompanying photograph, the Niōmon Gate houses two formidable statues: the Kongō-rikishi (金剛力士) on the right and the Misshaku-kongō (密迹金剛) on the left. These statues, collectively known as Niō (仁王), are revered as guardian deities, entrusted with protecting the temple's main entrance.

Crafted by a master sculptor from the Kamakura period, these statues are exemplary of the early Unkei style (運慶様), a renowned school of Buddhist sculpture. Dating back to the late 13th century, they hold the distinction of being the oldest surviving medieval works in Kanagawa Prefecture. In 2001, these invaluable statues were meticulously restored to ensure their preservation.

Beyond the gate, stone stairs beckon visitors upward, leading them to the serene grounds of Gumyoji Temple, a place steeped in spiritual tranquility and historical significance.

Glossary

Niō (仁王): The Niō, or "Benevolent Kings," are fierce guardian deities standing vigil at the entrance of Buddhist temples. These powerful figures embody the duality and balance within the universe, and their presence is meant to protect the sacred grounds from evil spirits and negative influences.
Mon (門): Mon (門) is a Japanese term for "gate," commonly used to describe the entrances to various types of buildings, including temples, shrines, homes, factories, and other structures.
運慶・Unkei (1148-1224): Unkei was a preeminent Japanese sculptor of the Kamakura period, renowned for his approach to Buddhist statuary. His work is celebrated for its dynamic expressiveness, heroic spirit, and powerful physicality.

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Gumyoji Shotengai Gate

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Gumyoji Kannon Street Shopping Arcade West Gate

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:10・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 3200 for 1/40 sec. at ƒ/11

Classic Negative film simulation

Nestled in the heart of Yokohama, the Gumyoji Kannon Street Shopping Arcade, commonly known as Gumyoji Shotengai, is a vibrant testament to Japan's cherished tradition of community shopping streets. Stretching 370 meters (approximately 1,206 feet), this covered arcade connects Gumyoji Station on the Keihin-Kyuko Line to Gumyoji Station on the Yokohama Municipal Subway Blue Line. Dating back to the 1920s, Gumyoji Shotengai is more than just a shopping street; it's a living piece of Yokohama's rich history!

Originally a red-light district with over 30 teahouses, Gumyoji Shotengai transformed significantly over the years. In 1921, the teahouses relocated, and by 1935, the area had evolved into a lively shopping district. Shops selling daily essentials like tobacco and dried goods lined the street leading up to the Gumyoji Temple.

Remarkably, the Gumyoji area escaped the devastating air raids that obliterated large parts of Yokohama and Tokyo during World War II. Post-war, the street adapted to the changing times, with a roof added to shelter shoppers and a pedestrian-friendly policy that prohibited vehicular traffic. The arcade flourished as a pedestrian paradise.

During the 1950s, Gumyoji Shotengai was a cultural hub, home to three bustling movie theaters: the Yurakuza, the Toa, and the Subaru. These theaters, along with a plethora of family-run shops, defined the vibrant community spirit of the area. However, in the past few decades, many of these beloved establishments have closed their doors. Aging owners without heirs to take over have led to a noticeable decline in the number of family-run shops.

Having visited Gumyoji Shotengai regularly for the past 40 years, I cherish the memories of its bustling atmosphere and diverse offerings. Despite the closures and changes, I remain hopeful that this historic street will continue to serve as a cherished venue for community festivals and gatherings, preserving its unique character for generations to come.