2024-07-10

Cape Kedo Sea Cliffs

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Cape Kedo: Remnants of Boshu Stone Quarries and Rich Geological History

Location: Kedoura Inlet, Chiba Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 9:22・2024/07/10

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP + 10-stop ND filter 
ISO 100 for 3.0 sec. at ƒ/6.3

Cape Kedo, situated on the east coast of Chiba Prefecture facing the Pacific Ocean, showcases heavily eroded sea cliffs and remnants of quarried stone.

The exposed strata, dating back approximately 2.5 million years, are visible on the sea cliffs, revealing interlayers of sandstone, mudstone, turbidite, trace fossils, and various types of tuff (volcanic ash). Signs of ancient fault slips can also be seen up close on the cliff faces.

This coastal area, including Cape Kedo and numerous other capes along the Boso Peninsula, was once a bustling site of stone quarries. These quarries extracted stone from the Mineoka Ophiolite Belt, which extends from the Pacific coastline to Tokyo Bay.

The Mineoka Belt was formed by geological activity resulting from undersea volcanic activity, leading to the formation of large reservoirs of Boshu stone. This stone was ideal for crafting tombstones, stone lanterns, and large blocks used for building foundations and construction materials during the Edo Period (1603–1868).

Commodore Perry's arrival in 1853 highlighted the strategic importance of fortified coastal defenses, prompting the shogunate to source Boshu stone for artillery batteries.

In 1858, following the U.S.-Japanese Treaty of Amity and Commerce, the city of Yokohama was opened. This led to the rapid construction of foreign settlements and major port infrastructure using Boshu stone, including modern wharfs, customs structures, and piers.

Demand for Boshu stone continued to grow as Yokohama rapidly became an international port, facilitating the construction of Western-style stone buildings. Today, the cliffs of Cape Kedo stand as a testament to the region's rich geological history and its role in shaping Japan's coastal defenses and international trade.

Glossary:
  • 房総半島嶺岡帯 (Bōsōhantō Mineoka-tai): Boso Peninsula Mineoka belt
  • 鵜原・Ubara: coastal district in the city of Katsuura, Chiba Prefecture
  • 採石場 (saisekiba): quarry: 
  • 嶺岡構造帯 (Mineoka kōzō-tai): Mineoka Tectonic Zone
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Kedoura Inlet

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Kedoura Inlet: A Scenic Escape in Chiba

Location: Kedoura Inlet, Chiba Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 9:20・2024/07/10

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
ISO 100 for 1/320 sec. at ƒ/5.0

The Kedoura Inlet on the eastern shore of Chiba Prefecture offers a stunning view of the Pacific Ocean, framed by eroded rock formations that reveal a glimpse into the geological history of Myojin Cape. This picturesque area is part of the Minami-Boso Quasi-National Park, which features numerous coves and cliffs that reach the water’s edge, their tops lush with trees, grass, and shrubbery.

Hiking trails extend for several kilometers throughout the park, leading to several scenic spots, including this small inlet. The trails offer a chance to explore the natural beauty and tranquility of the area, making it a perfect destination for nature enthusiasts and hikers.

During the Taisho period (1879–1926), there were ambitious plans to transform this area of Chiba Prefecture into a resort destination named Uhara Risōkyō (Ubara Utopia). However, these plans were aborted due to the devastating impact of the Great Kanto Earthquake on September 1, 1923. The earthquake resulted in the deaths of more than 110,000 individuals and left nearly 1.5 million people homeless, halting the development of the resort.

Despite this, the natural beauty and historical significance of the Kedoura Inlet and its surroundings continue to attract visitors, offering a unique blend of scenic landscapes and a poignant reminder of the region’s past.

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Border Collie at Chiba Beach

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Cooling Down on Myojin Cape

Location: Myojin Cape, Chiba Prefecture, Japan
Timestamp: 9:15・2024/07/10

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
ISO 100 for 1/80 sec. at ƒ/9.0

Located on the southwestern coast of Chiba Prefecture, the Kedoura Inlet features a small beach with a mixture of sand and seashells where my border collie promptly found a small pool of cool water to rest in.

The inlet is part of the Ubara Utopia Hiking Trail, which leads to various outlook points on Myojin Cape. Here, you can enjoy grand views of the Pacific Ocean and feel the cool ocean breeze flowing inland from the chilly deep waters just off the coastline.

While heading down to the beach, I ran into an elderly local bird photographer on the trail. We struck up a conversation, and he ended up accompanying me to this beach. 

He shared many interesting details about the local bird population, flowering plants, and the various creatures living in and around the small pools of water and eroded rocks along the beach. I was very fortunate to meet someone so friendly and willing to share so much knowledge of the area!

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2024-04-09

Gumyoji Temple Belfry

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Resonance of History: Gumyoji Temple's Belfry

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 18:47・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 160 for 20 sec. at ƒ/11
Classic Negative film simulation

In the serene setting of Gumyoji Temple, the bell suspended within this traditional belfry holds an historical and cultural significance. Recognized as a Yokohama City Tangible Cultural Property, this cast bronze bell is more than just a relic; it is a testament to the temple's enduring legacy.

The bell we see today was re-cast in 1798 for the third time since its inception, meaning that at least two earlier versions once rang across these temple grounds. While the reasons for recasting remain unknown, one can imagine various possibilities. Perhaps the bells were casualties of natural disasters such as earthquakes or fires. It's also possible they were melted down for war efforts or replaced by a benefactor’s request, reflecting the temple’s evolving history and support over the centuries.

One of the common New Year’s traditions in Japan is participating in the Joya-no-Kane at a local temple. This Japanese Buddhist ceremony involves ringing the temple bell 108 times to cleanse ourselves of the earthly desires accumulated over the year. Each strike symbolizes the removal of these desires, aligning with the Buddhist belief that humans are troubled by 108 earthly passions, which must be eradicated to attain peace.

My most recent Joya-no-Kane experience was at Gumyoji Temple on December 31, 2012. The temple was bustling with visitors in stark contrast to my first encounter with this ritual. That initial experience took place in the late 1990s at a quaint rural temple connected to my family's cemetery. There, amidst  local families, we all took turns striking the bell under the watchful eye of the monk, who carefully counted each toll by moving 108 stones from a small bag.

As I reflect on these experiences, the serenity and communal spirit of the Joya-no-Kane ceremony resonates with me. Whether in the crowded spaces of Yokohama or the tranquil rural temples of my youth, the ringing of the bell always marks a meaningful transition, a cleansing moment that ushers in the hope and possibilities of a new year.

Glossary
  • 梵鐘・Bonshō: A large, hanging bell at a Japanese Buddhist temple, which is commonly found at Buddhist temples throughout Japan, and used to summon the monks to prayer and to demarcate periods of time. Instead of a clapper, bonshō bells are struck from the outside, using either a handheld mallet or a beam suspended on ropes.
  • 鐘楼堂・Shorodo: Belfry. A building in which a bell bonshō (梵鐘) is hung.
  • 除夜の鐘・Joya-no-Kane: A Japanese Buddhist event held annually on New Year's Eve where a large bell, or bonshō, is struck at midnight of December 31 for 108 times.
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Evening at Gumyoji Temple's Gate

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A Glimpse into the Past: The Niōmon Gate at Gumyoji Temple

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 18:38・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 160 for 10 sec. at ƒ/11
Classic Negative film simulation

The Niōmon Gate (仁王門), originally built during the Edo period (1603-1868), is a testament to Japan's rich architectural heritage. Such gates, which mark the entrance to many temples and shrines across Japan, stand as a symbol of resilience and cultural continuity. At Gumyoji Temple, the oldest Buddhist temple in Yokohama, the Niōmon Gate was meticulously rebuilt during the Edo period and underwent significant repair work in 2002 to ensure its preservation for future generations.

This photo captures the back side of the Niōmon Gate as seen from top of the stone stairs leading to Gumyoji Temple's sacred grounds. As I ascended the steps, I was struck by the serene beauty of the scene. In the soft evening light, the cherry blossoms swayed gently in the breeze, their delicate petals creating a fleeting dance of bright pink against the backdrop of the stone walls. The long, narrow nobori flags, with their vibrant colors and intricate calligraphy, lined the staircase, each one fluttering in anticipation of upcoming festivals and special events.

The Edo period, a time of relative peace and cultural flourishing in Japan, saw the construction and reconstruction of many significant buildings, including the Niōmon Gate at Gumyoji Temple. This era was marked by a deep appreciation for the arts, and the architectural styles of Niōmon gates found at both famous and obscure temples and shrines throughout Japan. This  gate's imposing structure, flanked by two fierce guardian statues, serves as a protective threshold to the sacred temple grounds.

Cherry blossoms, or sakura, have long been celebrated in Japanese culture for their ephemeral beauty and their representation of the fleeting nature of life. Climbing the ancient stone steps to Gumyoji Temple, surrounded by these blossoms, I felt a connection to the past and a sense of peace that transcended time as I imagined millions of Japanese before me climbing the same stairs for the past 979 years.

Whether you're a history enthusiast or simply someone who appreciates the beauty of nature and architecture, the Niōmon Gate at Gumyoji Temple offers a glimpse into the enduring legacy of Japan's cultural heritage.

Glossary
  • 仁王・Niō: The Niō, or "Benevolent Kings," are fierce guardian deities standing vigil at the entrance of Buddhist temples. These powerful figures embody the duality and balance within the universe, and their presence is meant to protect the sacred grounds from evil spirits and negative influences.
  • 門・Mon: A Japanese term for "gate," commonly used to describe the entrances to various types of buildings, including temples, shrines, homes, factories, and other structures.
  • 幟・nobori: A Japanese banner consisting of long, narrow flags, attached to a pole with a cross-rod to hold the fabric straight out and prevent it from furling around the rod allowing the banner to always be visible and identifiable.
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Jokoro Incense Burner

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Sacred Smoke and Symbols: The Incense Burner and Crests of Gumyoji Temple

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 18:35・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 160 for 10 sec. at ƒ/6.4
Classic Negative film simulation

In this photo, you can see the large, cauldron-shaped incense burner situated at the top of the stairs in front of Gumyoji Temple. Like when visiting a Shinto shrine, visitors are encouraged to purify themselves first. Near the entrance, you’ll typically find a temizuya or chozuya water basin, where you can wash your hands and rinse your mouth. However, unlike at a shrine, Buddhist temples often feature a jokoro or incense burner as well.

You can waft the incense smoke over parts of your body that feel unwell, with the belief that the smoke has healing properties. Directing the smoke toward your head is thought to bring wisdom and mental clarity. When I visited the temple late in the evening, the incense had already burned out, so I couldn’t capture the serene scene of smoke gently drifting over the temple grounds.

On the front of the jokoro, two decorative crests are prominently displayed, serving as distinctive symbols for the temple. Although I couldn’t verify the exact origins or connections of these symbols to Gumyoji Temple, such crests are typically chosen for several reasons. They may reflect legendary ties to the temple's founding monks, the geographical name of the area, or the family crest of a significant monk. They can also indicate an association with the imperial family. Most commonly, these crests adopt the family emblem of a benefactor who provided land for the temple or supported its construction financially.

The first symbol is a gosan-no-kiri crest, which is a traditional Japanese emblem featuring the paulownia plant. The crest typically consists of three leaves and clusters of flowers arranged in a specific pattern of three, five, and three flowers. The crest also serves as the official seal of the Japanese government, specifically the Prime Minister’s office, the Cabinet, and the executive branch of the Japanese government.

The second symbol is the hidari-mitsudomoe, a triple-tomoe motif that flows to the left. This emblem has been part of Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples since the Heian period (794-1185). Although its origins and meanings are not entirely clear, in Japan, it is often seen on roof tiles' eaves. Resembling flowing water and with the kanji for "tomoe" meaning "eddy" or "whirlpool," it is believed to help ward off fire.

Glossary
  • 屋根付外置香炉・Yanetsuki Gaichi Kōro: This is a compound word describing an incense burner with a roof designed for outdoor placement.
  • 常香炉・Jōkōro: A large incense burner that is typically used as part of a purification ritual where worshippers offer incense and bathe in its smoke before proceeding to the main hall of the temple. This ritual cleansing symbolizes purification of the mind and body before entering sacred spaces.
  • 五三桐 ・Gosan-no-Kiri: a symbolic representation consisting of three leaves and an inflorescence with 3–5–3 flowers, derived from the paulownia tree. Originally a private symbol of the Japanese Imperial Family, Gosan-no-Kiri is now used as a governmental emblem. It has historical ties to imperial patronage, where it was bestowed upon head temples or given to temples by significant patrons.   
  • 左三つ巴・Hidari-Mitsudomoe: A three-tomoe symbol with tomoe spinning in the left direction. In Japanese, the character for tomoe (巴) means eddy or whirlpool.
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Gumyoji Temple

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Gumyoji Temple: From 1044 to Today

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 18:32・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 160 for 4.0 sec. at ƒ/6.4
Classic Negative film simulation

In this photo, we can see the main hall (本堂/Hondo) of Gumyoji Temple. The temple was originally founded on March 10, 1044, by the priest Koei (光慧上人/Koei Shonin). The current main hall, however, was rebuilt in 1766 under the guidance of the priest Chiko.

The building still incorporates some of the original materials from the 1044 structure, such as the hand-carved floorboards, beams, and rafters. Remarkably, after 930 years, the temple transitioned from a thatched roof to copper sheeting in 1976. This change likely reduced the labor needed for maintenance, lowered maintenance costs, and, most importantly, provided better weatherproofing and fire resistance.

The banner hanging from the eaves in front of the temple is a Japanese version of the Buddhist flag, featuring broad vertical stripes of blue, white, red, yellow, and green. Interestingly, I have also observed this banner at Shinto shrines, which likely reflects the historical fusion of Buddhism and Shinto traditions. This fusion was commonplace until 1868 when the Meiji government initiated efforts to separate the two belief systems.

Glossary
  • 本堂/hondo: The main hall of worship at a Buddhist temple housing the principal images most revered by the particular sect of the temple.
References:

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