2024-04-09

Sekizushi Sushi Shop

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Capturing Nostalgia: Sekizushi Sushi Shop at Gumyoji Shotengai

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 17:14・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 1250 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2
Classic Negative film simulation

Nestled within the charming streets of the Gumyoji Shotengai in Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan, lies a hidden gem of tradition and flavor: Sekizushi. 

As a street photographer, I often find myself drawn to the Showa-esque  allure of places like this where history mingles with the aroma of fresh cuisine.

Established in 1980, Sekizushi beckons the locals with its modest facade and welcoming noren curtain, adorned with elegant strokes of the shop's name  in white kanji characters on a traditional Japanese indigo blue background. 

I didn’t ask permission to shoot the interior, but learned that the restaurant has tatami mat seating for up to 12 patrons and counter seating for up to  11  patrons. The popular 5-piece sashimi platter priced at 2,000 yen seems to strike a balance between quality and affordability, particularly for overseas  travelers benefiting from the favorable exchange rate.

What truly captivates me, however, are the subtle details that remind me of bygone days. When you open the  wooden-framed glass sliding doors, they make a distinct rattle as the old metal rollers pass over the worn metal railings on the floor. 

The rattling sound evokes memories from my late teens of visits to friends' homes that had the same style of sliding doors at the entrance. That “gata-gata” rattling sound of the window panes shaking in their wooden frames takes me back to a nostalgic time of my youth and Japan's economic heyday during the late Showa period.

Glossary:
  • 暖簾 / noren: A traditional Japanese hanging cloth typically suspended from the eaves or doorways of buildings, serving as protection from sunlight or wind. Originating from the late Kamakura period, noren became closely associated with their use as shop signs, often adorned with designs representing the shop's name, trademark, or the owner's family crest.
  • 昭和ガラス引戸 / Shōwa garasu hikido: A type of wooden sliding door commonly found in Japan during the Shōwa period. These doors feature panels made of clear, patterned, or glazed glass set within wooden frames. The frames are equipped with rollers that slide along metal railings installed at the top and bottom of the door frame, allowing for smooth and effortless opening and closing.
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Komeido Bookstore at Gumyoji Shotengai

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Komeido Bookstore at Gumyoji Shotengai

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 17:12・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/140 sec. at ƒ/13
Classic Negative film simulation

Located at the eastern entrance to the Gumyoji Kannon Street Shopping Arcade (Gumyoji Shotengai), just a minute's walk from Gumyoji Station on the municipal Blue Line subway, lies the Komeido Shoten bookstore.

Rooted in its origins dating back to around 1940, Komeido Shoten is presently under the stewardship of its third-generation owner. The bookstore underwent renovation in 2008, expanding its offerings to encompass a diverse range of books within its 49.58 square-meter (533.67 square-foot) premises.

Among its collection, one can find a plethora of comics, magazines, and novels. Notably, the selection leans less towards business-oriented titles and more towards catering to the preferences of its core clientele, which predominantly comprises students, housewives, and retirees from the local community.

A unique feature of the bookstore is its practice of including small gifts and product samples with many of its books, a gesture that resonates particularly well with the cost-conscious women who frequent the establishment. Furthermore, in recognition of the large student population in the vicinity, the store maintains a well-stocked inventory of relevant textbooks to meet their academic needs.

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Gumyoji Shotengai

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Gumyoji Kannon Street Shopping Arcade East Gate

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 17:09・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/60 sec. at ƒ/13
Classic Negative film simulation

Gumyoji Kannon Street Shopping Arcade, known locally as Gumyoji Shotengai, lies nestled between Gumyoji Station on the Keihin-Kyuko Line to the east and Gumyoji Station on the Yokohama municipal subway Blue Line to the west.

This covered shopping arcade (typically called a shotengai in Japanese), sits along the path leading to Yokohama's oldest Buddhist temple, established roughly 1,300 years ago during the Nara Period.

The roofing that blankets the shopping street provides protection to visitors, particularly those en route to the temple.

Whether one seeks everyday essentials or indulges in gourmet delights, taking a leisurely stroll down this extensive shotengai is a regularly occurring pastime, especially following a visit to the temple located at the street's far western end.

Glossary:
  • 商店街 shotengai: A section or street in a town or urban neighborhood lined with shops.
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2024-03-20

Kawaguchi Asama Shrine Torii Gate

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A Glimpse into Torii Gate Architecture at Kawaguchi Asama Shrine

Location: Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi Pref., Japan
Timestamp: 15:24・2024/03/20

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
28 mm ISO 100 for 1/200 sec. at ƒ/7.1

The large torii gate warmly welcomes visitors to the cedar-tree lined approach to the Kawaguchi Asama Shrine. Many of these trees are 800 years old and have stood tall since the Kamakura Period (1185–1333).

Historical records indicate the original torii gate was built to a height of approximately 13 m (42.65 ft) in 1688, and rebuilt in 1697 to a height of 16.4 m (53.80 ft).

The current torii gate was built of concrete in 1965 and stands approximately 18 m (59.05 ft) high. One of the cornerstones of the original gate remains at the right foot of the current gate.

The inscription in green on the plaque of the torii gate reads "Sangoku Daiichisan,” In medieval Japan, "sangoku" referred to the three kingdoms of India, China, and Japan, which basically meant the entire world. “Daiichisan” means number one mountain or the highest mountain. So, when put together "Sangoku Daiichisan" means the "The World's Highest Mountain."

This particular naming of torii gates can be readily found at shrines surrounding Mt. Fuji. This naming is rather unique in that the name on a torii gate is usually the name of the shrine to which it belongs. Around Mt. Fuji, however, many torii gates belong to Mt. Fuji as it is a deity in its own rights, and are not named after the shrine to which they are physically attached to. In fact, there are historical records that indicate that some torii gates were put up as gates to Mt. Fuji herself, and the actual Shinto shrine followed later. 

Regardless of whether the torii was built for a shrine or Mt. Fuji, all torii gates are usually erected at entrances to a hallowed precinct (shrine, mountain, boulder, etc.) to demarcate a sacred place from its earthly surroundings.

The torii gate at Kawaguchi Asama Shrine uses an inari torii or daiwa torii design, which closely takes after the myoujin design that dates back to the 9th Century. Like the myoujin design, the daiwa torii design has top lintels with upward curving ends. The tie beam below the lintels is a straight, rectangular beam that extends beyond the pillars for about 1/5 of the tie beam’s length. Unlike the myoujin design, the daiwa design has a circular plate called the daiwa, which is placed on top of each pillar to prevent the seepage of rainwater into the crosscut of the pillar.

In the middle of the tie beam, there is often a framed inscribed panel or plaque called a gakuzuka. Unlike numerous torii gates around Mt. Fuji, typical inscriptions on the panel or plaque will bear the name of the nearby shrine.

Glossary:
  • 三国第一山 Sangoku Daiichisan: In medieval Japan, "sangoku" referred to the three kingdoms of India, China, and Japan, which basically meant the entire world for people at that time. “Daiichisan” means number one mountain or the highest mountain. So, when put together "Sangoku Daiichisan" means the "The World's Highest Mountain."
  • 台輪 daiwa: A circular plate placed at the top of the pillars used for torii gates to prevent the seepage of rainwater into the crosscut of the pillar.
  • 鳥居 torii: A traditional gate-like structure, composed of two pillars with one or two horizontal crosspieces at the top with a tie beam placed below the lintels and often erected at entrances to a Shinto shrine to demarcate a symbolic gateway between the earthly realm and the sacred realm of the spirits.
  • 稲荷鳥居 inari torii / 台輪 daiwa torii: Inari torii and daiwa torii are types of torii gates characterized by a circular plate, known as “daiwa,” placed on top of each pillar. This circular plate serves to prevent rainwater from seeping into the crosscut of the pillar, a feature unique to these designs.
  • 明神鳥居 myoujin torii: The myoujin torii gate, developed around the 9th Century, is the most common type of shrine entrance torii gate. It features upwards curving lintels, a tie beam below, and a framed inscribed plaque connecting the tie beam and the lintel in the middle. Additionally, it is often painted vermilion, adding to its visual prominence.
  • 額束 gakuzuka: Located at the center of the tie beam and connected to the upper lintel, this is a supporting strut that sometimes has a framed plaque attached to it with an inscription of the name of the shrine.
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Futahashira-Sugi Cedars

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Sacred Ancient Trees at Shinto Shrine

Location: Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi Pref., Japan
Timestamp: 15:11・2024/03/20

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
28 mm ISO 6400 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/8

Situated approximately 20 meters (65 ft) to the east of the Kawaguchi Asama-Jinja Shrine stand two ancient trees known as the Futahashira-Sugi (両柱杉) cedars. The cedar on the right reaches a height of approximately 47.5 meters (156 ft), making it the tallest among the renowned seven cedar trees at the shrine.

The cedar on the right is named after Izanagi-no-Mikoto, a male deity from Japanese mythology who, according to legend, fathered Japan, the sun, the moon, and storm gods. On the left stands a cedar named after Izanami-no-Mikoto, a female deity known for giving birth to numerous gods and being the wife of Izanagi-no-Mikoto.

The origin story of the two trees is fused with the belief that the roots of the right tree gradually grew and intertwined with those of the smaller tree on the left, a process said to have begun around 1,200 years ago. This physical and metaphorical union of the two majestic trees symbolizes a sacred bond, transforming them into revered entities worshiped for their association with successful matchmaking, fertility, and safe childbirth.

To symbolize this sacred union, the two trees are bound together by a shimenawa rope, signifying their holiness and serving as protection against malevolent spirits, thus preserving their status as revered landmarks. Adorned with shide paper streamers, the shimenawa rope further delineates the area surrounding the two trees as a consecrated space.

Glossary:
  • 両柱 futahashira: Two (or both) pillars, posts, cylinders, or support. In the above context, the two deities (large cedar trees), one a male and the other a female, are intertwined as one at their roots.
  • 杉 sugi: Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica)
  • 注連縄 shimenawa: A straw rope hung before or around a site to demarcate sacred or pure space.
  • 垂 shide: folded strips of paper suspended from shimenawa ropes to demarcate a sacred or ritual space.
  • 伊耶那岐命 Izanagi-no-Mikoto: A male creator deity (kami) of both creation and life in Japanese mythology.
  • 伊耶那美命 Izanami-no-Mikoto: A female creator deity of both creation and death in Japanese mythology, as well as the Shinto mother goddess.
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Kawaguchi Asama-Jinja Shrine

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Kawaguchi Asama-Jinja Shrine

Location: Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi Pref., Japan
Timestamp: 15:09・2024/03/20

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
28 mm ISO 2500 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/8

Situated just 1.28 km (4,186 ft) from the shores of Lake Kawaguchi, which lies northeast of Mt. Fuji, Kawaguchi Asama Shrine boasts an ancient history dating back to the Jogan Eruption of Mt. Fuji in 864. The shrine is oriented toward the source of the lava flow rather than Mt. Fuji’s peak, to appease the volcano deity known as Asama or Sengen. Establishment of this shrine marked the beginning of the building up of shrines on the northern flank of Mt. Fuji, which centuries later, would welcome thousands of lay pilgrims every year.

After the devastating Jogan Eruption, which wreaked havoc on the Asama/Sengen shrines located on the southern slopes of Mt. Fuji, the imperial court decreed the construction of a new shrine to the north. This decision aimed to appease the angered deities and safeguard the shrine from potential future eruptions.

The architecture of Kawaguchi Asama Shrine follows the wari-haiden ("divided worship hall") style typical of Sengen shrines. This style features two distinct structures connected by an open space beneath a single roof. In my accompanying photo, you can see a prime example of wari-haiden: the expansive main worship hall (haiden) on the left and the sanctuary housing the shrine's central object of veneration (honden) on the right, both unified under the same roof.

The haiden, positioned on the left side, functions as the primary worship hall within the shrine complex. Depending on factors such as the shrine's size and location, the haiden may also double as a platform for ritual performances, ceremonies, and direct worship of the shrine's kami. Typically situated at the forefront of the sanctuary (honden), the haiden is often constructed on a larger scale compared to the honden. Consequently, it tends to be the most noticeable structure by regular worshippers.

The honden, positioned on the right side, holds paramount significance within the shrine's architecture as it houses the essence of the deity, typically represented by a sacred mirror or, less commonly, a statue. The honden is situated at the rear of the shrine complex and is accessible only to shrine priests or, in the case of major shrines, the Emperor.

The standout feature of this shrine that immediately captivated my attention is its remarkable nagare-zukuri (流造) design, showcased in the roofs of both the worship hall and the sanctuary. Characterized by gently sloping curves that seamlessly extend to the eaves, this style of gabled roof is distinctive for its integrated roof-eave structure. Nagare-zukuri roofs can be crafted from a variety of materials, such as thatch, cypress bark, and copper plating, contributing to the shrine's aesthetic appeal.

I'm also fascinated by the metal fittings positioned at the ends of the rafters, which extend to the edge of the eaves. Typically crafted from iron, copper, or gilt bronze, these fittings serve not only as decorative elements but also play a functional role in safeguarding the structural components from weather-related wear and tear.

Terminology:
  • 割拝殿・wari-haiden: A specific architectural style commonly found in Shinto shrines, characterized by a long structure under a single roof that is divided in the center by a passageway. This passageway connects the haiden, the main worship hall, with the honden, which houses the shrine's central object of veneration. The wari-haiden design allows for a seamless flow between the two essential components of the shrine while maintaining structural integrity and aesthetic unity.
  • 拝殿・haiden: Primary worship hall within a Shinto shrine, typically positioned on the same axis as the main sanctuary (honden). It serves as a space for ritual worship, ceremonies, and offerings to the shrine's deity or deities. The haiden is often the focal point of religious activities and is designed to accommodate worshippers during various religious observances.
  • 本殿・honden: The sanctuary of a Shinto shrine, revered as the most sacred building because it enshrines the deity (kami). This central structure serves as the spiritual heart of the shrine, where worshippers offer prayers and reverence to the divine presence believed to reside within.
  • 神・kami: Divine beings in Shinto belief, encompassing a wide range of entities, including deities, spirits of nature, ancestors, and even revered objects or phenomena. They can be symbolized by various items such as amulets, mirrors, swords, carved statues, as well as natural elements like trees, rocks, and animals. Kami are revered for their power and influence over different aspects of the world, including the elements, natural forces, and human affairs.
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Kayabuki Farmhouse for Silkworms

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From Silk Worms to Scarves: Inside the Historic Farmhouses of Saiko Iyashi-no-Sato Nenba

Location: Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi Pref., Japan
Timestamp: 12:24・2024/03/20

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
28 mm ISO 400 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/11

This farmhouse stands as the epitome of a traditional Japanese rural dwelling, characterized by its iconic thatched roof and adorned with a few unique features tailored for silk production.

A defining trait of many restored farmhouses in the Saiko Iyashi-no-Sato Nenba open-air museum is their incorporation of second-floor windows. These windows play a pivotal role in regulating airflow, light, and temperature, essential for the cultivation of silkworms. This industry was central to the village's existence, tracing back to the Edo Period (1603-1867).

The houses in this village used a distinctive thatched roof design, known as kabuto-zukuri (兜造り), owes its origin to the necessities of sericulture. The name, kabuto-zukuri, translates to "helmet structure,” and derives from the roof's resemblance to the helmet worn by samurai warriors.

Ventilation and ample sunlight were indispensable for successful sericulture, thus these dwellings were crafted to cater to the needs of silk production, reflecting one of the primary livelihoods of the local farmers .

Today, this meticulously restored farmhouse serves a new purpose as the home of Fujisan Silk, a gift shop offering a variety of silk products. From scarves to ties, these items are crafted by Kashiwagi Co., Ltd., a silk textiles manufacturer with a rich history spanning over 300 years in the neighboring town of Fujiyoshida.

Terms:
  • 茅葺屋根 kayabuki yane: thatched roof
  • 民家 minka: rural dwelling or farmhouse
  • 茅葺き民家 kayabuki minka: thatched roof house
  • 兜 kabuto: a type of helmet first used by ancient Japanese warriors and later by the samurai class 
  • 造り tsukuri: structure
  • 兜造り kabuto-dzukuri: structure of roof resembling samurai helmet
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