Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/1/125 sec. at ƒ/5.6
Astia Soft film simulation
Approach to Famous Yokohamabashi Japanese Shopping Street in Yokohama, Japan for Street and Documentary Photography
Location: Yokohamabashi, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 17:19 on December 19, 2023
After a nearly 10-year gap, I rediscovered the Yokohamabashi shopping street, or 横浜橋商店街 (Yokohamabashi Shotengai), nestled a mere 4-minute stroll from Bandobashi Station on the Yokohama Municipal Blue Line subway. As it was decades ago, the shopping street feels like stepping into a living legacy that has withstood the test of time since the conclusion of World War II.
In this shot, I set my sights on encapsulating the essence of this shotengai signboard through the lens of my camera. The focal point? The glowing [よこはまばし] streetlight that proudly heralds the entrance to the shopping street.
Nightscapes are enchanting, and my admiration for the vibrant colors inherent in nocturnal street photography led me to experiment with a 5% diffusion filter on my lens. The result was a delicate halo cast around the brilliantly illuminated signboards, adding a touch of ethereal allure to the scene.
As I framed the shot, a family of foreigners strolled ahead of me. Intrigued, I couldn't help but wonder if they were on a quest for affordable holiday delights to adorn their Christmas tree. The shotengai, with its array of shops and festive ambiance, seemed like the perfect destination for such a quest.
For those interested in experiencing the charm of Yokohamabashi Shotengai firsthand, it's conveniently accessible with just a 4-minute walk from Exit 1A of Bandobashi Station on the Yokohama Municipal Subway Blue Line.
I worry whether or not this shotengai can survive into the future as a surprisingly high number of shops have closed their doors due to lack of an heir to take over and run the shop, which have been doing well being run by the same family over multiple generations right after the war.
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/4.0
Astia Soft film simulation
Ring of Nostalgia: Japan's Vanishing Pay Phones
Location: Yokohamabashi, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 17:20 on December 19, 2023
Four decades ago When I stepped foot in Japan, pay phones were an indispensable tool for daily communications on a par with the modern cell phone.
Securing a landline number demanded a hefty deposit of ¥75,000 (approximately $300 USD in 1984 or $522 USD in 2023). Alternatively, I was able to bypass this substantial expense by relying on the widespread network of local pay phones and a pocketful of change or prepaid telephone cards.
Pay phones dotted the landscape of my neighborhood, from small shops and train stations to cafes, schools, a random street corner, and even the high-speed bullet trains.
Fast forward to today, where nearly every individual owns a cell phone, rendering the maintenance of pay phones and their networks a challenging proposition for Japan's primary service providers, NTT East and NTT West. In response to the changing norms of personal communications, the Ministry of Internal Affairs and Communications contemplated the reduction of mandatory minimum pay phone numbers in 2021. This was a shift from the previous requirements, such as one phone for every 500 sqm in urban areas and one phone for every one kilometer in rural areas.
Despite their dwindling usage in our digital age, the ever present prospect of natural disasters in Japan, particularly earthquakes, positions pay phones as vital communication lifelines. Cell phone networks typically fail to handle the surge of calls during such crises, underscoring the enduring significance of pay phones.
Explore further insights and detailed instructions on the various types of pay phones in Japan and how to use them. This information can be a lifesaver when your phone has no battery life or, heaven forbid, you find yourself needing to reach out to friends or family after a major disaster:
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/60 sec. at ƒ/8.0
Astia Soft film simulation
Northern Entrance to Historic Yokohamabashi Shopping Street
Location: Yokohamabashi, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 19:32 on December 19, 2023
The Yokohamabashi Shopping District was my go-to spot for groceries and everyday items when I lived nearby several years ago.
From what I learned later, this shopping street has been the primary destination for many locals since pre-war times. As a local shopping hub, it's not only won the hearts of the locals but has also drawn in shoppers from far and wide.
Right after the war, volunteers got together and set up a market dealing in essential everyday products. That was just the start. The Yokohamabashi Shopping District Trade Association came into play, bringing stall owners together, boosting trade, and post-war, they kept at it, earning everyone's ongoing support and trust.
And here's the scoop on its location: a mere 4-minute walk from Bandobashi Station on the Blue Line of the Yokohama Municipal Subway.
Now, picture this: a 350-meter-long arcade decked out with about 130 shops. You've got your greengrocers, butchers, fishmongers, and delis – the whole shebang. It's not just a shopping gig; it's a shopping fiesta with a variety of affordable, quality items and an all-around friendly vibe.
But it's not just about shopping; taking a leisurely stroll through the district is a treat in itself. Check out the old-school mom-and-pop shops, each with its unique product displays, and the charming alleyways that exude a strong Showa-Era atmosphere. It's a blast just soaking it all in!
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/8.0
Astia Soft film simulation
Plums and Pipes: Unveiling the Unique Charms of Mukoyama Shoten in Yokohamabashi
Location: Yokohamabashi, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 17:33 on December 19, 2023
Step into the vibrant Yokohamabashi shopping district, and one of the first shops you'll encounter on your left is an establishment named Mukoyama Shoten, offering an quirky mix of tobacco and plum products.
Several years ago, the store underwent a renovation, transforming its appearance into a more modern and inviting space. Originally specializing in tobacco-related items, Mukoyama Shoten has expanded its inventory to include a totally unrelated selection of renowned plum (ume) and pickled plum (umeboshi) products, notably the Nanko-Ume.
Nanko-Ume, a distinctive plum variety, thrives in the historical region known as “Kishu,” encompassing present-day Wakayama Prefecture and southern Mie Prefecture. The coastal climate in this area is particularly conducive to the cultivation of these flavorful plums.
Beyond their unique origin, pickled plums (umeboshi) are served with vinaigrettes, salad dressings, noodles, sandwiches, and rice balls. A popular way to enjoy umeboshi is to pair them with rice, complemented by side dishes such as fish, meat, or vegetables like cucumbers and carrots.
For those inclined towards homemade drinks, buying unripened green plums in late spring or early summer opens up the possibility of crafting umeshu—a delightful fruity liqueur. Made by steeping unripened ume in distilled liquor with sugar, the steeping time is left to the brewer’s discretion. Many of the older parents of my Japanese friends, treasure personal umeshu recipes passed down through generations. These homemade concoctions are served warm in winter and served cold in the summer months.
Yokohamabashi, like many other shotengai shopping streets in Japan, boasts the charm of small mom-and-pop shops, each with its own quirky blend of products. The juxtaposition of tobacco items and plum specialties at Mukoyama Shoten exemplifies the unique character of these establishments, making a visit a fun exploration of diverse offerings.
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/8.0
Velvia/Vivid film simulation
Taiseido—A Small High-End Apparel Shop Since 1954
Location: Yokohamabashi, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 17:36 on December 19, 2023
Import Shop Taiseido specializes in retailing both Japanese and imported name-brand apparel and shoes, including rare and sought-after labels. While I don't consider myself a fashionista, the staff at Taiseido introduced me to a plethora of brands, some of which were familiar, such as The North Face, Moncler, Emporio Armani, Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana, and more. However, the real revelation for me was discovering that the unique and exclusive Japanese brands carried the same hefty prices of their overseas counterparts! 😂
Established as a corporation in August 1954, Taiseido has been a staple at Yokohamabashi for over 69 years. Witnessing the store's transformation over the past several decades, the recent interior renovation caught my eye. The latest design is characterized by a more open space and bright white tones, which offers a refreshing contrast to its previous darker and slightly dated appearance.
Nestled between a recently completed modern 10-story apartment building and a time-honored mom-and-pop grilled eel shop, the store reflects a delightful blend of the past and the present. This juxtaposition captures the quintessential charm of a Japanese shotengai, where the coexistence of the old and the new creates a unique and appealing atmosphere.
For foreigners seeking name-brand apparel and shoes in sizes that might be challenging to find elsewhere, Taiseido might be a potential one-stop destination—provided, of course, that your budget allows for indulging in the world of high-end fashion. The shop claims to boast the best selection of numerous name brands in Kanagawa Prefecture, making it a must-visit for those with a penchant for distinctive and internationally renowned and high-end Japanese fashion.
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/8.0
Astia Soft film simulation
Edokko Shoten: Over 60 Years as Grilled Eel Masters
Location: Yokohamabashi, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 17:37 on December 19, 2023
Embark on a culinary journey at Edokko Shoten, an esteemed establishment boasting a legacy of over 60 years. Nestled in tradition, this hidden gem specializes in grilled eel, offering a small variety of flavors that transport diners to the heart of authentic Japanese cuisine.
At Edokko Shoten, the culinary experience extends beyond the exquisite kabyaki grilled eel. Complementing this specialty, the shop offers an array of side dishes perfect to accompany a bowl of white rice. Among these delights are candied herring, tamba black soybeans, dried sweet squid, dried sweetened river shrimp, and more, each carefully prepared with sweet soybean-based sauces.
To ensure the freshest possible grilled eel, the shop starts each day by acquiring live eels from Shizuoka Prefecture, preparing them from start to finish.
The term “kabayaki” refers to the method of grilling, a popular technique for cooking seafood. The eel undergoes a careful process—it is gutted, boned, and butterflied before being marinated in a mixture of soy sauce, sake, sugar, and other seasonings, culminating in the flavorful grilled dish that is dearly loved in Japan.
Dating back to the Edo period (1603—1868), kabayaki eels were a staple in Japanese cuisine, known for their affordability and widespread popularity. In modern times, due to dwindling eel populations, kabayaki has become a more expensive delicacy, often enjoyed as a luxurious treat.
For those seeking an authentic Japanese dining experience, Edokko offers a selection of 4 kabayaki eel dishes, with prices ranging from ¥1,500 to ¥2,400 ($11 to $17 USD). Additionally, the menu features tantalizing side dishes, elevating your simple lunch or dinner into a slightly luxurious meal with the unmistakable taste of Japan.
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/6.4
Provia/Standard film simulation
Tachinomidokoro Maimeri: A No-Frills Standing Bar Serving Takoyaki in Japan
Location: Yokohamabashi, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 17:42 on December 19, 2023
Tachinomidokoro Maimeri, despite its signage emphasizing takoyaki (octopus dumplings), is actually a no-frills standing bar that serves beer, whiskey, nihonshu (Japanese sake), and shochu (distilled spirits made from grains or vegetables), along with non-alcoholic drinks, accompanied by takoyaki and other small side dishes.
This establishment, like many others in Japan, caters to those seeking a quick drink and affordable side dishes in a communal setting.
Originating from the Edo Period (1603-1867) in Tokyo's Kanda district, standing bars were initially operated in front of liquor stores. Today, places like Maimeri, often located near train stations and in working-class neighborhoods, preserve the tradition of offering a space for salarymen to unwind after a hard day's work.
Maimeri stands out in that it focuses on selling ready-made takoyaki in the afternoon that customers can take home and enjoy with their lunch or as a quick snack, a popular street food.
While the aging demographic of standing bar patrons is noticeable, the allure lies in the accessibility of these establishments. Affordability and proximity attract individuals of varying ages, backgrounds, and professions, providing an opportunity to experience the history and atmosphere of the local area.
However, enjoying a standing bar comes with its own set of manners. It's advisable to visit alone or with a friend, leaving ample space for others. Attempting to gather in large groups may overcrowd the place, disrupting the communal experience these bars offer.
Whether you're a local or a visitor, experiencing a standing bar like Maimeri provides a unique glimpse into Japan's culture and social dynamics. So, next time you find yourself near one, step in, savor the affordable drinks and snacks, and try to make a new acquaintance in the process.
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 1000 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/6.4
Provia/Standard film simulation
Yokohamabashi's Produce Tapestry: Chinese Influence and Japanese Traditions
Location: Yokohamabashi, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 17:47 on December 19, 2023
Numerous produce shops grace the entirety of the Yokohamabashi Shotengai shopping arcade. Through the years, a distinct pattern has emerged – the proprietors of these shops predominantly fall into two categories: Japanese or Chinese.
Japanese-run establishments specialize in high-end or bespoke produce cultivated in Japan. Their prices reflect not only the superior quality of the items but also the elevated level of customer interaction and the overall presentation of the shop. These pricier fruits aren't intended for personal consumption but rather as opulent gifts, boasting near-perfect shapes, enticing aromas, exquisite flavors, and impeccable textures.
In contrast, Chinese-run shops prioritize cost-cutting measures by procuring produce in bulk, often sourced from both domestic and predominantly overseas growers. The experience of shopping at these more affordable stores carries a distinct ambiance, but the silver lining is the opportunity to provide substantial savings for your family's food budget.
The Tsunokami Produce Shop, featured in this photo, stood out to me with its large traditional Japanese curtain adorned with red and white stripes and the words "daiuridashi," which translates to "big sale." Interestingly, the shop has been hanging this banner daily for over 7 years, despite not actually having a big sale. However, for first-time visitors, the low prices compared to typical supermarket prices might come as a pleasant surprise.
What caught my eye at this shop wasn't the low prices, but the large red and white banner, known as "kohaku-maku" (紅白幕) in Japanese. Kohaku-maku is a traditional decorative fabric panel with vertical red and white stripes. The term "kohaku" derives from "ko," meaning "red," and "haku," meaning "white." The Japanese have long considered this kohaku pattern a symbol of happiness. Specifically, red symbolizes peace and prosperity, while white represents spiritual and physical purity.
I have seen kohaku-maku hanging on the wall or in the background of formal occasions such as graduation ceremonies, groundbreaking ceremonies, new store openings, wedding ceremonies, and New Year’s parties. Additionally, I have seen the banner used at less formal occasions like outdoor tea ceremonies, local summer festivals, and local cherry blossom viewing parties to demarcate or decorate a space.
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 800 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/6.4
Astia/Soft film simulation
From Orchard to Arcade: Unveiling the Legacy of Fruit Tokunaga
Location: Yokohamabashi, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 17:49 on December 19, 2023
The Fruit Tokunaga shop, in operation for over 75 years, stands as a classic example of Japanese fruit stores renowned for their premium quality offerings, often chosen and wrapped with care for gifting purposes.
At the store's entrance, more budget-friendly fruits are available, though slightly pricier than those at nearby supermarkets or Chinese-run produce shops just a few doors down.
Venture towards the back of the shop, and you'll find the true gems showcased in a display case. Not immediately visible in the photo, these treasures include cantaloupes priced at ¥5,500 each (approximately $39 to $50 USD, depending on the exchange rate).
Specializing in seasonal fruits cultivated in Japan through contracts with carefully selected local farmers, the shop's motto, "Face to Face," underscores the owner's commitment to quality. The emphasis on face-to-face interactions with independent growers ensures a meticulous chain of quality control, guaranteeing that bespoke fruits become delectable gifts.
When purchasing fruit as a gift, customers can request separate gift wrapping for either refrigerated or room temperature storage.
Meet the shop's owner, Mr. Hirotaka Tokunaga (pictured on the right, wearing glasses), a local celebrity in the Yokohama Shotengai shopping arcade.
Apart from successfully running his family business for decades, he is an avid design and photography hobbyist. Mr. Tokunaga generously volunteers his time and talents, creating flags, banners, promotional materials, and posters for the shotengai association members.
These creations are strategically placed throughout the shopping arcade, serving to announce upcoming festivals, convey public service announcements, and promote special events scheduled throughout the arcade.
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 1250 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/6.4
Astia/Soft film simulation
Chiyoda Sushi: Bridging Tradition and Accessibility in Every Bite
Location: Yokohamabashi, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 17:50 on December 19, 2023
Chiyoda Sushi is a chain store that strives to make sushi more accessible to the masses by offering lower prices while ensuring freshness and quality.
The particular shop situated in the Yokohama Shotengai shopping arcade is one of the many establishments that have been operating in the arcade for decades, reflecting its popularity among the locals. It seamlessly fits into the local shotengai, where most businesses cater to the needs of the working class.
The origins of Chiyoda Sushi can be traced back to 1959 when they began sourcing fresh fish directly from wholesalers at the historic Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo. They would then prepare sushi to be consumed onsite, near the fish market.
In the post-war era, sushi had transformed into a luxury food. Chiyoda's mission was to provide a means of making Edomae sushi available to the masses at affordable prices, similar to how it was during the Edo period (1603-1868).
Edomae sushi was the fast food of Edo (modern-day Tokyo) during that period, focusing on using fish easily and quickly acquired at the local fish markets on Tokyo Bay to ensure freshness. Popular fish included tuna, bonito, halibut, sea eel, shellfish, and others. Some of the fish were cured with salt, vinegar, or soy sauce to add complementary flavoring and to help preserve the fish due to a lack of refrigeration. The fish were served with rice mixed with vinegar, providing complementary flavor to the rice and aiding in its preservation as well.
Today, Chiyoda Sushi remains a popular destination for locals, foreign residents, and tourists alike. The shop exclusively sells take-out Edomae sushi for later enjoyment at home, a departure from more traditional high-end sushi shops where prices can be as eye-watering as the flavors and service.
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 2000 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/6.4
Astia/Soft film simulation
Traditional Japanese Fishing Fleet Flags
Location: Yokohamabashi, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 18:11 on December 19, 2023
The Sanwa Fisheries shop caught my eye with its pronounced use of traditional Japanese fishing fleet flags called tairyo-bata (大漁旗) or tairyo-ki in Japanese. These flags were traditionally flown off the coast to inform people waiting at the port in advance that there was a lot of work to be done to unload the big catch of fish, allowing them to prepare accordingly. The colorful designs made the flags easy to identify before the fishing boat reached the port.
These days, ship owners commission local craftsmen working in small ateliers to create uniquely original flags, hoping that their fishing operations will be blessed with abundant catches for many years to come.
Flags may include the name of the boat, the name of the local fish market or fishing port, the name of the fisherman’s coop, etc. Additionally, the flag will almost always feature the characters “大漁” promptly shown, announcing a large fish catch (大漁=tairyo; lit. big+catch), as well as other elements and motifs that bring good fortune, such as a golden sea bream, Japanese crane, a tortoise shell, Mount Fuji, a rising sun, and auspicious plant symbols including pine, bamboo, plum blossoms, and more.
The flags are typically handcrafted by skilled artisans who have been using techniques and methods handed down for generations. Some artisans working today have been making flags for more than 300 years, covering a span of 16 generations.
If you visit your local fishing port, there is a good chance you can sign up for a workshop and try your hand at making tairyo-bata, taught by the same artisans who service the local fishermen.
The use of these beautiful flags has extended to eye-catching decorations in Japanese izakaya pubs, fishing markets, and the fish section of fresh fish retailers. Some artisans have recently started accepting commissions for flags to be used for special occasions such as births, marriages, and store openings. Tairyo-bata make great family keepsakes while communicating a sense of hope for the future, for both the recipient and the artisans wishing to preserve their traditional craft.
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/6.4
Astia/Soft film simulation
Traditional Japanese Noodle Restaurant
Location: Yokohamabashi, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 18:21 on December 19, 2023
Iroha, a charming mom-and-pop soba restaurant with roots tracing back to the Meiji era (1868-1912), has a rich culinary legacy. The time-honored recipes for their delectable soba noodle broth have been passed down through generations and are still used today.
Nestled in a quaint space, this establishment, now managed by an elderly couple and their son, is renowned not only for its soba but also for its tantalizing tempura and seasonal vegetables sourced from Shizuoka Prefecture. Originating from Niigata Prefecture, the couple even adds their hometown's maitake mushrooms into the menu.
With a capacity for just 20 diners, the intimate setting of handwritten menu items tacked onto the interior walls adds to the authentic atmosphere. A noteworthy touch is the display of excess seasonal vegetables for sale outside the shop, a thoughtful approach to minimizing food waste.
The entrance is adorned with a captivating noren (flag-like curtains hung at the entrance of many different kinds of Japanese shops), its deep indigo hue standing out against a backdrop of handwritten notes and advertisements, creating a lively announcement board. A closer look at the photo reveals the owner's wife's talent for crafting soft plush dolls, displayed with notes inviting passersby to freely take one home.
For those unfamiliar with handwritten Japanese, the exterior and interior walls showcase the menu items, while a convenient standard menu with photos inside the shop allows patrons to point to their desired dishes. Iroha is not just a dining experience; it's a heartfelt journey through time and tradition, a testament to the enduring passion of its proprietors.
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/6.4
Velvia/Vivid film simulation
Yokohamabashi Shotengai: A Resilient Hub in Changing Times
Location: Yokohamabashi, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 18:23 on December 19, 2023
Shotengai, the quintessential Japanese shopping street of mom-and-pop retailers found in towns and cities, are deeply rooted in local communities. Often run by multi-generational families, these shops provide daily necessities, services, and actively participate in community events like festivals.
However, since the 1990s, shotengai across Japan have faced a decline due to competition from supermarkets, malls, department stores, and online shopping. Despite these challenges, Yokohamabashi shotengai in Minami Ward, Yokohama, has stood resilient.
Pre-World War II, it was the heart of the community, offering a diverse range of household goods and food. Post-war, it rebuilt itself from ashes, focusing on food and daily necessities during the post-war reconstruction period. Over time, it evolved to include boutiques, produce and fish markets, clinics, cafes, bars, restaurants, specialty shops, and much more.
In the 1960s, Yokohamabashi installed a roof and restricted vehicular traffic for safer foot and bicycle flow. In 2013, the roof was refurbished, enhancing the shopping experience even on rainy and windy days.
Today, spanning 350 meters with 135 shops, Yokohamabashi shotengai faces challenges as elderly owners retire, leading to closures. Despite this, I cherish the hope of continuing to visit for years to come, enjoying shopping, conversing with elderly shopkeepers, capturing street photography, and partaking in seasonal festivals.
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 160 for 1.0 sec. at ƒ/6.4
Astia/Soft film simulation
Discovering Tsukasa: A Quaint Hideaway in Yokohamabashi's Back Streets
Location: Yokohamabashi, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 18:40 on December 19, 2023
Venturing into the dark, narrow alleys branching off from the brightly lit main drag of Yokohamabashi Shotengai shopping street, I discovered a quaint bar and eatery named “Tsukasa.”
The establishment, run by an elderly woman, served homemade dishes and drinks to customers engrossed in the sports news broadcast from a tiny TV perched atop a refrigerator in the corner behind the kitchen counter.
Inebriated salarymen in business suits and equally red-faced blue-collar workers, still in their factory uniforms, laughed loudly and became vocally excited about the baseball news emanating from the small screen.
This shop, absent from Google Maps with zero online reviews, barely seems to exist in the modern world. The only way to discover it is through word of mouth or by stumbling upon it while meandering through the back alleys branching off from Yokohamabashi Shotengai’s brightly lit main street.
As mentioned in previous posts, I appreciate the wide variety of noren curtains, particularly those with charming, traditional designs that hint at the owner's character, the establishment's vibe, and sometimes reveal a shop’s heritage.
I love the understated noren of this shop with its classic indigo blue called “ai” (藍) in Japanese. This indigo, made from the leaves of the Japanese indigo plant, was initially used by aristocrats and samurai. It can now be found adding color to everything from kimonos, blue jeans, linen, and of course, noren curtains.
The young bamboo plant motifs in the noren blend well with the real potted bamboo plant positioned just below it.
The storefront sign indicates “Sapporo” (the type of beer served at the shop) and, from top to bottom, right to left, reads “家庭料理・katei ryōri,” which means homemade cooking, and “つかさ・Tsukasa,” likely the owner’s name. Next time I visit, I hope to remember to ask about the origin of the name!
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 160 for 1.0 sec. at ƒ/5.6
Astia/Soft film simulation
A Mama-san's Oasis: A Warm Glow in Yokohama's Nightlife
Location: Yokohamabashi, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 18:46 on December 19, 2023
The warm glow of the rusty orange paper lantern (提灯・chochin), adorned with the signage “居酒屋・izakaya” (Japanese pub), hangs and casts its soft radiance on the similarly colored rusty brown exterior of the pub/tavern. This sight immediately captured my attention, standing in stark contrast to the vibrant Yokohamabashi shotengai street visible at the end of the alley.
While you might feel a bit hesitant to step into this tavern due to its lack of reviews, location on a dark alleyway, absence of a website, and minimal presence on Google Maps, I urge you not to hesitate. A delightful surprise awaits you upon entering, where you'll be warmly greeted by the sweet, elderly Mama-san who runs the well-kept and clean pub.
The establishment is a unique blend, functioning both as an izakaya, offering a diverse range of foods that go well with Japanese liqueurs, and as a bar for those seeking a purely drink-centric experience.
Once inside, you'll find a long, narrow space divided by a counter with seven seats. As soon as you step in, the regulars are eager to strike up a conversation (in Japanese), creating an easygoing atmosphere to connect with your new drinking buddies. (Non-alcoholic drinks are also available.)
While the food may lean towards the pricey side, every dish is lovingly home-cooked by the Mama-san and boasts a delicious flavor. Notably, the prices for the sashimi (sliced raw fish) are competitive with other local taverns and sashimi restaurants.
Personally, I plan to return with my camera on a quieter day, hoping to capture the charm of the interior and perhaps gain the Mama-san's trust to photograph both the shop and her in action.
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 160 for 1.0 sec. at ƒ/5.6
Astia/Soft film simulation
Relaxed and easy-going atmosphere at Pii.
Location: Yokohamabashi, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 18:48 on December 19, 2023
Right across the alleyway from a Japanese tavern called 'Wa' is a small Thai restaurant named 'Pii.'"
Right across the alleyway from a Japanese tavern called “Wa” is a small Thai restaurant named "Pii.” Although the green signboard says it’s a curry restaurant, it's actually a Thai restaurant.
The restaurant seems to be well known among the locals for its authentic flavors and popular 600-yen lunch, which is less than $5.00 USD.
Upon peeking inside, it transported me to the late Showa era, reminiscent of old teahouses or coffee shops from the 1970s to 1989.
Unlike a typical Japanese restaurant where the staff yell out a healthy “Iraishamasse” (Welcome!), and quickly take you to your seat with a menu, the husband running this shop barely noticed my presence as he focused on a sports game on the TV while his wife was busy in the open kitchen.
Perhaps the Thai culture promotes a more relaxed and easy-going atmosphere compared to the typical Japanese setting. I felt like I was popping in for a meal at an old friend’s or relative’s house! LOL!
The Yokohamabashi shotengai shopping street and the small narrow dark alleys leading off from the main drag have a visible presence of Koreans, Chinese, Thai, Filipino, Indians, and few other foreigners whose language I wasn’t able to identify.
The small groups of other foreigners creates a multicultural ambiance in the local neighborhood where various Asians seem to work in harmony with each other to meet the needs of the local community.
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 160 for 1.0 sec. at ƒ/10
Astia/Soft film simulation
Savoring Korean Tradition: Exploring Yokohama's Kimchi Haven
Location: Yokohamabashi, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 18:52 on December 19, 2023
The Yokohamabashi Shotengai, a bustling covered shopping street, boasts around nine Korean shops specializing in kimchi—a traditional Korean banchan crafted from salted and fermented vegetables, typically featuring napa cabbage or Korean radish.
While most kimchi vendors draw in crowds on the main drag, Namusanya Kimuchi stands apart, tucked away in a small, narrow shop facing a dimly lit alley. The store showcases its delectable array of kimchi in a large refrigerated glass display, each variant boasting tantalizing colors and a delightful aroma of spices. Additionally, they offer popular Korean instant ramen brands at the storefront, creating a perfect pairing with their signature kimchi.
Despite the subtly lit surroundings, Namusanya Kimuchi earns a plethora of four-star reviews. Numerous housewives rave about the shop, expressing their appreciation for the affordable bulk quantities of kimchi available at reasonable prices. These patrons commend the store for staying true to the traditional recipe, capturing the homemade essence reminiscent of the flavors crafted by aunties and grannies back in Korea.
As a kimchi lover myself, the temptation to purchase a bag was strong. However, with expensive camera gear in tow, I hesitated, unwilling to risk even the slightest chance of a kimchi leak compromising my equipment.
Intriguingly, the shop's owner, Shin-san, a third-generation Korean proprietor, revealed in a local interview that the establishment has been a thriving mom-and-pop shop for over 40 years. According to Shin-san, the enduring success is attributed to the authenticity of their kimchi, a cherished taste that resonates with local Koreans seeking a nostalgic flavor of home.
She shares that their most popular kimchi variant undergoes a meticulous preparation process, taking a day to create and fermenting for 2 to 3 months until it achieves the distinctive flavor and aroma that has made the shop a local favorite.
She claims their long and enduring success is based on the authentic taste of their kimchi, which is close and dear to the hearts of local Koreans looking for a taste of home.
Explore other kimchi shops at Yokohamabashi Shotengai:
1. 南山家キムチ（Namusany Kimchi):
2. 美味キムチ (Bimi kimchi):
3. オモニの味 ()Omoni-no-Aji):
4. 福美 (Fukumi):
5. 実家 惣菜店 (Jikka sōzai-ten):
6. 木浦食品 (Kiura shokuhin):
References for further reading:
- Google Maps—Namusanya Kimuchi (南山家キムチ)
- Hama Report—Kimchi Shops in Yokohama (Japanese)
- Iwao-Ccaco—Discovering Fascinating Kimchi (Japanese)
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 1600 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2.0
Astia/Soft film simulation
Kei Truck at Yokohama's Children Fire Prevention Event
Location: Yokohamabashi, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 19:07 on December 19, 2023
Odori-Koen is a long, narrow park subdivided into several sections, including the Water Plaza and Stone Plaza. This grassy, tree-dotted space is home to numerous sculptures by renowned artists like Henry Moore. Stretching approximately 1.18 km (3,883.26 ft) in length, the park spans above the subway line between Kannai Station and Bandobashi Station in Yokohama, Japan.
Near the southwestern end of the park, close to Bandobashi Station, lies the Yokohamabashi Shotengai (covered shopping street). Adjacent to the shotengai's entrance, within Odori-Koen park, I encountered a small group of volunteer firefighters concluding an event aimed at promoting public awareness of fire prevention and firefighting activities for children.
In the photo, a kei truck, a compact Japanese vehicle converted into a small fire truck, caught my eye. Specifically designed to navigate the narrow streets still present in urban neighborhoods throughout Japan, these vehicles play a crucial role in firefighting efforts.
Kei trucks belong to an ultra-small class of Japanese vehicles that must meet specific criteria:
Maximum length: 3.4 m (134 in)
Maximum width: 1.48 m (58 in)
Maximum height: 2.0 m (79 in)
Maximum engine displacement: 660 cc (40.26 cubic inches)
Maximum weight: 700 kg (1,500 lb)
The primary purpose of these converted kei trucks is to easily access fires on narrow streets, a common occurrence in urban neighborhoods developed before modern zoning laws ensured wider streets for emergency vehicles.
During my conversation with the leading volunteer firefighter hosting the event, I discovered that Yokohama city had requested the event to provide children with hands-on experience with the fire truck, basic instructions on using fire extinguishers and firefighting safety gear, and fundamental fire prevention measures. This event occurs about 3 or 4 times a year for several consecutive days.
In the shot, a placard reads “ちびっこ消防士,” translating to “Kiddy Firefighter,” underscoring the child-focused nature of the event. Silver helmets and coats, available in various sizes, allow elementary school children to try them on and pose for photos with the firefighters.
Odori-Koen is spacious enough to host multiple events simultaneously. Throughout the year, the park hosts various events, art shows, flea markets, and community festivals. If you find yourself in Yokohama’s Kannai district, be sure to explore Odori-Koen – you might chance upon a delightful event to enjoy.
References:
- Google Maps—Odori-Koen near Yokohamabashi Shotengai Entrance (大通公園・横浜橋商店街入口):
- Hamakore Yokohama—Photos and details about Odori-Koen park (Japanese):
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 1600 for 1/60 sec. at ƒ/8.0
Provia/Standard film simulation
Revitalizing Odori-Koen Park: Yokohama's Winter Art Exhibition
Location: Odori-Koen Park, Naka Ward, Yokohama, Japan
Timestamp: 17:29 on December 19, 2023
After spending several hours capturing street photography at the Yokohamabashi Shotengai shopping arcade, I made my way to Bandobashi Station through Odori-Koen Park near the shopping arcade entrance. To my delight, the path to the station was lined with 30 beautiful traditional Japanese paintings. These artworks had been enlarged and reproduced onto large acrylic panels, which were backlit and mounted on wooden frames.
This exhibition features paintings from Yuzawa in Akita Prefecture. The paintings are actually a part of Yuzawa’s annual Tanabata Picture Lantern Festival that is held every summer in August. The festival dates back to over 300 years and typically features over 100 woodblock-like paintings.
The exhibition here in Yokohama showcases 30 of the paintings used in Yuzawa’s festival. The paintings are modern creations using both modern techniques and traditional techniques and are based on Edo period woodblock prints (浮世絵・ukiyo-e) portraying bijinga (美人画), a genre of paintings depicting the beauty of women's appearance, manners, and customs from as far back as the 8th century, but more closely associated with bijinga paintings that had gained widespread popularity among the masses during the 17th and 19th centuries.
The exhibition staff shared that this event was part of a promotional initiative supported by both the city of Yuzawa in Akita Prefecture and the Eastern Yokohama Revitalization Association—a local civic group in Yokohama dedicated to revitalizing the neighborhood by optimizing the abundant space in Odori-Koen Park.
Expressing their hopes for the event to become an annual December feature, one of the staff mentioned that they aim to bring warmth and light to what would otherwise be a dark and cold winter evening in the park while simultaneously promoting exciting cultural events and local delicacies of Yuzawa.
Having frequented Odori-Koen park for many years, I had always sensed that its potential was not fully realized, considering its vast open space and proximity to Yokohama's historic Kannai district. Apparently, this sentiment was shared by many local residents and shop owners who recently formed the revitalization association to enhance the quality of life and economy of the neighborhood by leveraging the park as a valuable resource.
References:
- Google Maps—Odori-Koen (大通り公園)
- How are the paintings made? (Japanese)
- Who are the artists? (Japanese)
- Tanabata Edoro Festival (Japanese)
- Town News—Painting Exhibition at Odori-Koen (大通り公園に絵どうろう) (Japanese)
- Japanese Architecture and Art Net Users System—Art History/Paintings (English)
- Wikipedia—Woodblock Printing (English)
