Pix4Japan: Kyu-Iwasaki-Tei

Kyū-Iwasaki-tei Garden: A Historic Meiji-era Western-Style Estate in Tokyo
旧岩崎邸庭園：東京の歴史ある明治時代の洋風邸宅

After spending the earlier part of my day photographing around Shinobazu Pond in Ueno Park, I continued on to Kyū-Iwasaki-tei Garden (旧岩崎邸庭園, Kyū-Iwasaki-tei teien), located just south of the park.

The grounds were home to various clans from the Edo period (1603–1868) into the early Meiji period (1868–1912). A major transformation occurred in 1896, when Hisaya Iwasaki, the son of the founder of the Mitsubishi group, acquired the land. He commissioned British architect Josiah Conder to design more than 20 buildings on the expansive 49,500 m² (532,813 ft²) estate, creating a residence that reflected both Western influence and Japan’s growing international outlook during the Meiji era.

Like many elite properties in Tokyo and Yokohama, the estate’s history took a dramatic turn after World War II. The residence was requisitioned by the GHQ under the authority of Douglas MacArthur during the Allied occupation of Japan.

After the occupation, the property was returned to Japan and subsequently used by the Japanese Ministry of Justice until 1970. During this period, many of the original structures were demolished, leaving only three buildings and an estate reduced to less than half its original size. What once were elaborate gardens are now largely open lawn, punctuated by a few surviving stone monuments, lanterns, and a stone hand-washing basin dating back to the Edo period.

Given Tokyo’s relentless urban development, it is perhaps unsurprising that much of the land was sold off. In my photographs, a towering university hospital, high-rise condominiums, corporate offices, and government buildings loom over the estate from all sides; a stark visual reminder of how the city has grown around it.

Fortunately, local citizens recognized the historical value of what remained, and in 1991 the surviving structures were designated an Important Cultural Property, affording them legal protection. Today, the estate is managed by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government, which charges a modest entrance fee of around 400 yen for a leisurely self-guided tour.

One small disappointment during my visit was that interior photography was prohibited that day due to the holiday crowds, a measure intended to ensure a smooth flow of visitors. I would very much like to return on a quieter weekday to spend more time carefully observing the well-preserved British Renaissance style and the unexpected Islamic motifs incorporated into the wooden carvings and decorative detailing.

I was especially impressed by the colorful, textured Japanese leather paper and embroidered silk wall and ceiling coverings used in the guest rooms. Seeing such craftsmanship made me wonder whether artisans in Japan today still possess the knowledge to produce similar work, or whether one would need to travel back to Europe to find comparable handiwork created in the modern era.

Links to Google Maps and sources for a deeper dive: