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A Midday Scene at an Izakaya Beneath the Tracks
ガード下の居酒屋、昼のひとコマ
Positioned between the elevated railway tracks of bullet train and commuter lines, several traditional Japanese pubs were already drawing in lunchtime customers, advertising seasonal dishes and freshly caught seafood delivered earlier that morning.
I’m not a foodie in the slightest, so I have no firsthand knowledge of the menu at this particular izakaya. However, while researching its backstory, I learned that it operates under Asakusa Mugitoro (est. 1929), an upscale kaiseki restaurant known for traditional Japanese haute cuisine. There, elaborate multi-course meals emphasize seasonality, artistic presentation, and precise cooking techniques in stark contrast with this gritty, down-to-earth pub, snugly crammed beneath rumbling train tracks and catering to the everyday working man.
While learning about the contrast between this modest izakaya and the refined kaiseki traditions of its parent restaurant, I was reminded of how differently I experience these two kinds of spaces.
Upscale restaurants often leave me feeling self-conscious and wondering whether I’ve dressed appropriately, or struggling to make the kind of effortless small talk that seems expected in more formal settings. In contrast, mom-and-pop shops and small neighborhood izakayas allow me to relax almost immediately.
Conversations with the owners or staff come naturally, and the atmosphere feels grounded and unpretentious. As someone who isn’t a food connoisseur, I’m rarely able to tell the difference between an expensive, meticulously plated dish and a simpler homemade one anyway, which makes these everyday places feel not only more comfortable, but also more welcoming and fun.
- Location: Ameya-Yokocho, Taito Ward, Tokyo
- Timestamp: 2026/01/02・13:39
- Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
- 23 mm ISO 320 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/2.2
- Classic Negative film simulation
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Lively Alley Tucked between Shinkansen Tracks, Ueno, Tokyo北陸新幹線と上越新幹線の高架下に挟まれた上野の路地
Positioned between the elevated railway tracks of the Hokuriku Shinkansen (北陸新幹線) on the left and the Jōetsu Shinkansen (上越新幹線) on the right, this narrow alley is lined with shops that make use of every last centimeter of space beneath the bullet trains and commuter trains rumbling overhead.
Set slightly apart from the wider, busier thoroughfares of the Ameyoko shopping district, this alley is easy to miss. While the main streets draw budget-conscious shoppers and steady flows of overseas tourists, this tucked-away stretch has a different character. Alongside the usual mix of eateries, bars, and cafés, there are a few adult-oriented shops that give the alley a more candid, less polished atmosphere.
I likely would have walked right past this alley if I hadn’t been intentionally slowing down and exploring every nook and cranny of the neighborhood. It was the kind of overlooked, in-between space that often catches my attention when I’m out shooting street photography.
- Location: Ameya-Yokocho, Taito Ward, Tokyo
- Timestamp: 2026/01/02・13:39
- Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
- 23 mm ISO 320 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/6.4
- Classic Chrome film simulation
If you’d like to see more from this area, you can find other related posts (1-minute reads), with links to sources for a deeper dive here:
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