2025-01-02

Seimon-Ishibashi Bridge

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Reflections of Edo in Tokyo’s Urban Landscape
皇居の正門石橋と二重橋：歴史と現代が交わる場所


Just before entering the main courtyard, where thousands had gathered in an orderly fashion to hear the annual New Year’s greeting from Japan’s emperor and the imperial family, I crossed the moat via Nijubashi Bridge (二重橋). From here, I had a fantastic vantage point looking east—Seimon-Ishibashi Bridge (正門石橋) reflected on the moat’s still waters, the expansive Kokyo-mae Hiroba (皇居前広場) gardens stretched out in the midground, and the steel-and-glass towers of Tokyo’s Marunouchi financial district rose in the background.

It took about 90 minutes to reach Nijubashi Bridge from the plaza, where visitors patiently lined up for their turn to access the palace grounds.

Looking across the plaza, with its neatly sculpted pine trees and golden winter grass set against the gleaming skyscrapers, I closed my eyes and tried to imagine the scene from this bridge over 400 years ago—when the urbanscape was still a saltwater bay.

Back in 1592, the Hibiya Inlet (日比谷入江) was an estuary that fed into Tokyo Bay. Its proximity to the Pacific Ocean allowed ships to navigate inland, transporting essential materials like lumber and quarried stone for the construction of castle structures, bridges, and fortifications. Over time, the moat before me was excavated, forming part of a vast 12-kilometer (7.5-mile) system that spiraled outward from Edo Castle. These waterways not only served defensive purposes but also enabled the marine transport of building materials and goods from distant regions, fueling Edo’s rapid expansion.

As the moats were dug, the excavated soil was repurposed to reclaim land from the Hibiya Inlet. This newly created land became the site of grand estates and meticulously designed gardens for approximately 300 daimyo feudal lords. Today, those once-private spaces have transformed into public areas—the Kokyo-mae Hiroba garden, visible in the mid-ground of my photo, and the Marunouchi district, now home to towering business complexes and Tokyo Station, hidden just beyond the skyscrapers.

What was once an undeveloped settlement along the shores of Tokyo Bay has, over four centuries, evolved into one of the world’s largest metropolises. Yet, beneath the modern cityscape, traces of old Edo remain. Many of Tokyo’s automotive expressways follow the paths of former water channels, now filled in, while railway and subway lines often align with the castle’s outer moats. Even the sites of former daimyo residences have found new purposes—housing government buildings, schools, parks, and commercial centers.

Standing on this historic bridge, I was struck by the layered history beneath my feet—a seamless blend of past and present, where echoes of Edo still shape the rhythms of Tokyo today.
 
  • Location: Imperial Palace, Chiyoda Ward, Tokyo
  • Timestamp: 10:29・2025/01/02
  • Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
  • ISO 320 for 1/500 sec. at ƒ/5.6
  • Provia/Standard film simulation

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