Pix4Japan: January 2025

2025-01-02

New Year's Greeting

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Welcoming the New Year: Emperor at Chōwa-Den Hall
新年の皇居、長和殿に響く歓声

The Imperial Family greeted visitors at the Imperial Palace in central Tokyo, Japan, during the New Year’s celebration—a modern tradition that dates back to 1951.

Upon entering the palace gardens, we underwent security checks, including bag inspections and a body scan with a metal detector wand. Once cleared, volunteers handed out paper Japanese flags to visitors, a small but symbolic gesture that added to the festive atmosphere.

The wait to enter the courtyard lasted about 90 minutes, as security personnel guided groups of several hundred visitors at a time. Once inside, we only had to wait another 15 minutes before the Imperial Family appeared behind the protective glass barrier of the Chōwa-den (長和殿) Reception Hall veranda. This year, the number of visitors was notably limited, with only about 14,000 people granted access to the palace grounds.

In his greeting, Emperor Naruhito expressed his concern for those affected by natural disasters, particularly the massive earthquake that struck the Noto Peninsula on New Year's Day 2024. Acknowledging the hardships many still endure, he stated, “I am concerned about the many people who are still living a life full of hardships.” He concluded with a heartfelt wish: “I wish for the happiness of people in our country and around the world.”

Although barely visible in my shot, Emperor Naruhito and Empress Masako stood at the center, with other members of the Imperial Family to their left. To the emperor’s right, I was pleased to see Emperor Emeritus Akihito and Empress Emeritus Michiko. At 90, Michiko-sama had undergone surgery for a broken right femur in October, yet she attended the event without the aid of a cane. It was reassuring to see both the former emperor and empress present and seemingly in good health.

Having lived in Japan through the reigns of three emperors, I find that imperial succession has little impact on my daily life—except when dealing with official documents. Legal contracts, health insurance cards, driver’s licenses, tax forms, and even my car registration all adhere to Japan’s traditional era-based calendar system, where years are counted according to the reign of an emperor. For example:

・Emperor Hirohito’s reign: Showa 1 to 64 (1926–1989)

・Emperor Akihito’s reign: Heisei 1 to 31 (1989–2019)

・Emperor Naruhito’s reign: Reiwa 1 to present year 7 (2019–2025)

At my day job, unlike most of my peers, I regularly handle legal contracts and documents that use the era-based system. As a result, I keep a conversion chart on my desktop to ensure I correctly match Gregorian years with their corresponding era years when translating documents.

Location: Imperial Palace, Chiyoda Ward, Tokyo
Timestamp: 11:03・2025/01/02
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 320 for 1/500 sec. at ƒ/8
Provia/Standard film simulation

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Seimon-Ishibashi Bridge

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Reflections of Edo in Tokyo’s Urban Landscape
皇居の正門石橋と二重橋：歴史と現代が交わる場所

Just before entering the main courtyard, where thousands had gathered in an orderly fashion to hear the annual New Year’s greeting from Japan’s emperor and the imperial family, I crossed the moat via Nijubashi Bridge (二重橋). From here, I had a fantastic vantage point looking east—Seimon-Ishibashi Bridge (正門石橋) reflected on the moat’s still waters, the expansive Kokyo-mae Hiroba (皇居前広場) gardens stretched out in the midground, and the steel-and-glass towers of Tokyo’s Marunouchi financial district rose in the background.

It took about 90 minutes to reach Nijubashi Bridge from the plaza, where visitors patiently lined up for their turn to access the palace grounds.

Looking across the plaza, with its neatly sculpted pine trees and golden winter grass set against the gleaming skyscrapers, I closed my eyes and tried to imagine the scene from this bridge over 400 years ago—when the urbanscape was still a saltwater bay.

Back in 1592, the Hibiya Inlet (日比谷入江) was an estuary that fed into Tokyo Bay. Its proximity to the Pacific Ocean allowed ships to navigate inland, transporting essential materials like lumber and quarried stone for the construction of castle structures, bridges, and fortifications. Over time, the moat before me was excavated, forming part of a vast 12-kilometer (7.5-mile) system that spiraled outward from Edo Castle. These waterways not only served defensive purposes but also enabled the marine transport of building materials and goods from distant regions, fueling Edo’s rapid expansion.

As the moats were dug, the excavated soil was repurposed to reclaim land from the Hibiya Inlet. This newly created land became the site of grand estates and meticulously designed gardens for approximately 300 daimyo feudal lords. Today, those once-private spaces have transformed into public areas—the Kokyo-mae Hiroba garden, visible in the mid-ground of my photo, and the Marunouchi district, now home to towering business complexes and Tokyo Station, hidden just beyond the skyscrapers.

What was once an undeveloped settlement along the shores of Tokyo Bay has, over four centuries, evolved into one of the world’s largest metropolises. Yet, beneath the modern cityscape, traces of old Edo remain. Many of Tokyo’s automotive expressways follow the paths of former water channels, now filled in, while railway and subway lines often align with the castle’s outer moats. Even the sites of former daimyo residences have found new purposes—housing government buildings, schools, parks, and commercial centers.

Standing on this historic bridge, I was struck by the layered history beneath my feet—a seamless blend of past and present, where echoes of Edo still shape the rhythms of Tokyo today.

Location: Imperial Palace, Chiyoda Ward, Tokyo
Timestamp: 10:29・2025/01/02
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 320 for 1/500 sec. at ƒ/5.6
Provia/Standard film simulation

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Guard Tower

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Fushimi-Yagura: One of Tokyo’s Last Edo Castle Towers
皇居西ノ丸に残る江戸城伏見櫓

While visiting Japan’s Imperial Palace in Tokyo, the historic Fushimi-yagura (伏見櫓) guard tower came into view, standing gracefully atop its stone wall with an ornate lamp post nearby, just beyond the main gate to the palace grounds.

This two-story tower, originally part of Edo Castle in the 17th century, is flanked by two galleries (多聞・tamon), which served multiple purposes: a hiding place for troops during wartime and an armory or storehouse in peacetime.

The name Fushimi supposedly comes from Fushimi Castle in Kyoto, as some theories suggest that this tower was originally built there before being dismantled and reassembled at Edo Castle during the reign of Tokugawa Iemitsu (1623–1651), the third shōgun of the Tokugawa dynasty. However, historical records remain inconclusive, and this story is considered speculative.

At its height, Edo Castle had 19 fortified towers, but due to fires, earthquakes, and the Tokyo air raids of WWII, most structures were lost. Today, only three of these historic towers remain.

Location: Imperial Palace, Chiyoda Ward, Tokyo
Timestamp: 10:28・2025/01/02
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 320 for 1/500 sec. at ƒ/14
Provia/Standard film simulation

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Silent Vigilance

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Silent Vigilance: The Imperial Guard of Japan’s Imperial Palace
静かなる威厳：正門石橋の皇宮警察

During my visit to Japan’s Imperial Palace in Tokyo, I encountered an imperial guard standing in silent vigilance before the massive main gate. His unwavering presence embodied the discipline and tradition that have safeguarded the palace for generations.

The Imperial Guard, officially established in 1886, is now a specialized division of the National Police Agency. Their primary duty is to protect the Emperor, Crown Prince, and other members of the Imperial Family, as well as imperial properties like the Tokyo Imperial Palace. Beyond security, their responsibilities extend to fire-fighting within the palace grounds—complete with their own fire engines and trained firefighters.

What surprised me most, however, was the breadth of their training. In addition to rigorous police instruction—covering judo, kendo, drills, and pistol handling—imperial guard recruits also study traditional Japanese arts such as waka (classical poetry), shodo (calligraphy), ikebana (flower arranging), and chado (the way of tea). English conversation is also part of their curriculum, highlighting the blend of tradition and modern needs.

Whether it’s a King’s Guard sentry at Buckingham Palace, a U.S. Marine at the White House, or a Swiss Guard at the Vatican, elite guards worldwide share a common thread—character, self-discipline, and an unwavering commitment to duty. Standing before this imperial sentry, I couldn’t help but admire the dedication required to uphold such a revered tradition.

Location: Imperial Palace, Chiyoda Ward, Tokyo
Timestamp: 10:25・2025/01/02
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 160 for 1/450 sec. at ƒ/2.5
Provia/Standard film simulation

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Hinomaru

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Hinomaru Flag on New Year’s Day・お正月の「日の丸」

Although the Hinomaru (日の丸 / "Ball of the Sun") was officially designated as Japan’s national flag through legislation in 1999 as the Nisshōki (日章旗 / "Flag of the Sun"), it had already been in use for centuries. References to its iconic design date back as early as 645, with the first written record appearing in 797.

Regardless of the name used, one common thread is the symbolism of the sun, which has been deeply rooted in Japanese mythology and religious traditions since ancient times.

The first official use of the Hinomaru flag was during the Edo Period (1603–1868) when the Tokugawa Shogunate required Japanese merchant ships trading with countries such as Holland, China, the United States, and Russia to hoist the flag.

However, during Japan’s imperial expansion in the early 20th century, the Hinomaru became a symbol of militarism, leading to deep-rooted controversy in many parts of Asia.

After World War II, the Allied Occupation prohibited public display of the flag without permission from GHQ (General Headquarters). It wasn’t until 1949 that the restriction was lifted, allowing the Hinomaru to be flown again without special approval.

Today, I see thee flag on national holidays—waving in front of some homes in my neighborhood, adorning tiny bumper flags on my local commuter bus, and flying at government buildings, including my local ward office.

For many younger generations visiting Japan as tourists, the Hinomaru carries a different meaning from that of their grandparents. Rather than viewing it through the lens of history, they associate it with other national symbols of modern Japan—Mt. Fuji, bullet trains, cherry blossoms, sushi, temples, and shrines.

In contrast, most of my younger Japanese friends and family are largely indifferent to the flag. This apathy may stem, at least in part, from its overt use by nationalist groups, who can often be seen fanatically waving it on the streets of Yokohama, particularly in areas where large groups of tourists gather on weekends.

Personally, I’ve always appreciated the colors and patterns of various national flags. The Hinomaru, in particular, fascinates me as a photographic subject due to its simple, minimalist design and striking contrast.

Location: Imperial Palace, Chiyoda Ward, Tokyo
Timestamp: 9:57・2025/01/02
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 160 for 1/2200 sec. at ƒ/8.0
Provia/Standard film simulation

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Kokyo-mae Hiroba

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Kokyo-mae Hiroba: From Samurai Mansions to Open Spaces
武家屋敷から開かれた広場へ：皇居前広場の歴史

I went on a photowalk at the Imperial Palace in central Tokyo on one of the rare occasions when the palace grounds were open to the public. This special access was for the official New Year’s greeting by the emperor.

While waiting in line to enter the inner courtyard, I captured this shot of the urban landscape—towering steel-and-glass office buildings rising with sharp, modern lines, contrasting against the neatly manicured lawns and sculpted curves of Japanese pine trees (matsu) under a crisp winter morning sky.

During the Edo Period (1603–1868), this area just outside the Edo Castle moat was lined with the grand mansions of feudal lords. When Japan transitioned from a military dictatorship to a constitutional monarchy during the Meiji Era (1868–1912), Prime Minister Hirobumi Ito confiscated these estates, replacing them with trees and open spaces. Over time, this transformation gave rise to the expansive plaza we see today, a serene green space in the heart of Tokyo.

Location: Imperial Palace, Chiyoda Ward, Tokyo
Timestamp: 9:46・2025/01/02
Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 320 for 1/900 sec. at ƒ/4.0
Provia/Standard film simulation

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2025-01-02

New Year's Greeting

Welcoming the New Year: Emperor at Chōwa-Den Hall新年の皇居、長和殿に響く歓声

Seimon-Ishibashi Bridge

Reflections of Edo in Tokyo’s Urban Landscape皇居の正門石橋と二重橋：歴史と現代が交わる場所

Guard Tower

Fushimi-Yagura: One of Tokyo’s Last Edo Castle Towers皇居西ノ丸に残る江戸城伏見櫓

Silent Vigilance

Silent Vigilance: The Imperial Guard of Japan’s Imperial Palace静かなる威厳：正門石橋の皇宮警察

Hinomaru

Hinomaru Flag on New Year’s Day・お正月の「日の丸」

Kokyo-mae Hiroba

Kokyo-mae Hiroba: From Samurai Mansions to Open Spaces武家屋敷から開かれた広場へ：皇居前広場の歴史

Welcoming the New Year: Emperor at Chōwa-Den Hall
新年の皇居、長和殿に響く歓声

Reflections of Edo in Tokyo’s Urban Landscape
皇居の正門石橋と二重橋：歴史と現代が交わる場所

Fushimi-Yagura: One of Tokyo’s Last Edo Castle Towers
皇居西ノ丸に残る江戸城伏見櫓

Silent Vigilance: The Imperial Guard of Japan’s Imperial Palace
静かなる威厳：正門石橋の皇宮警察

Kokyo-mae Hiroba: From Samurai Mansions to Open Spaces
武家屋敷から開かれた広場へ：皇居前広場の歴史