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Ryueiinari-jinja: A Hidden Inari Shrine in the Heart of Tokyo
隆栄稲荷神社：下谷神社の境内に佇む小さな稲荷社
Ryueiinari-jinja is a small Inari shrine located within the same shrine courtyard and tucked away under some trees of Shitaya Shrine, which I have introduced in recent posts. While Shitaya Shrine is a traditional Shinto shrine, Ryueiinari-jinja is specifically dedicated to Inari, the deity of rice cultivation and harvest.
Inari shrines can exist independently, but they are often found within the grounds of larger Shinto shrines. This made me wonder—why would an Inari shrine be located in this urban neighborhood of Tokyo, a city that has been a major metropolis for over a century?
To answer this, it’s important to remember that not all of Edo (modern-day Tokyo) was fully developed. By the mid-1800s, Edo had a population exceeding one million, making it one of the largest cities in the world at the time. However, some areas still had land dedicated to agriculture.
While researching historical maps, I came across two—one from 1824 and another from 1854. The older map depicted numerous rice paddies north of the imperial palace, along with many Inari shrines concentrated in what is now the Asakusa area of Tokyo. By 1854, the map showed a much more urbanized landscape, with fewer rice paddies and a noticeable decline in the number of Inari shrines.
Yet, despite these changes, both Shitaya Shrine and Ryueiinari-jinja remained, even though the remaining rice fields had shifted farther north, beyond the Sumida River. This suggests that while the immediate area may have transitioned away from agriculture, the shrine continued to serve the community, preserving its historical and spiritual significance.
Standing before the small shrine today, several traditional elements caught my eye. Hanging from the eaves is a thin shimenawa (標縄), a sacred rice straw or hemp rope that marks a ritually pure space. Attached to it are shide (紙垂), zigzag-shaped paper streamers, which further signify the presence of the divine.
In front of the shrine, a thick rope hangs for ringing the suzu (鈴), a round, hollow bell with a jingling sound, used to call upon the deity before offering prayers. Below it sits the saisenbako (賽銭箱), a wooden offering box where visitors leave monetary donations.
Flanking the shrine are two stone fox statues, each adorned with a red bib. In Shinto belief, the kitsune (fox) serves as Inari’s messenger, protecting rice fields and ensuring bountiful harvests. One theory suggests that foxes earned this role by hunting rodents in rice paddies, inadvertently safeguarding the precious crop. The red bibs, commonly seen on Inari shrine foxes, are thought to ward off illness and evil spirits, reinforcing their protective role.
Ryueiinari-jinja may be small, but it offers a fascinating glimpse into Tokyo’s past—one where agriculture and urban life coexisted, and where traditions persist even as the landscape changes.
- Location: Shitaya Shrine Grounds, Taito-ku, Tokyo
- Timestamp: 14:38・2024/12/10
- Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter
- ISO 1250 for 1/30 sec. at ƒ/10
- Astia/Soft film simulation
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