Pix4Japan

2024-03-20

Tetsubin, Irori, and Hinamatsuri

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From Doll Displays to Irori Hearths: Discovering the Seseragiya Crafts Museum

Location: Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi Pref., Japan

Timestamp: 11:37・2024/03/20

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP

28 mm ISO 100 for 2.0 sec. at ƒ/11

Exploring the Saiko Iyashi-no-Sato Nenba open-air museum is like stepping back into a time of traditional Japanese culture.

One of restored thatched roof buildings, Seseragiya (せせらぎ屋), not only showcases traditional Japanese handicrafts but also serves as a hub for workshops where visitors, including local school children, can learn the art of crafting traditional toys from wood or bamboo.

From the melodies of a Japanese warbler whistle (うぐいす笛) to the charm of a cicada spinner whistle (ブンブンセミ), Seseragiya offers a hands-on experience to learn some of the craftsmanship of toys of yesteryears.

In the attached photo, the enchanting Hina-matsuri display steals the show, commemorating the health and happiness of young girls and women during for the Girl’s Day holiday.

Modeled after a Heian Period (794 to 1185) wedding, the display features meticulously arranged tiers, with the Emperor and Empress gracing the uppermost tier, surrounded by court attendants and musicians adorned in traditional attire.

The intricate details of the dolls and tiers can vary widely, from simple folded paper figurines to exquisitely carved three-dimensional masterpieces, depending on one’s budget—unless one is fortunate enough to inherit an exquisite family heirloom from parents or grandparents.

In this shot, we can also see a traditional cast iron kettle hanging from a pothook over a sunken hearth. In a traditional house, the hearth (irori) was used to provide heat, light, and in many cases a place for cooking with the use of a tripod, or suspended from the beams above using a pothook.

Depending on one’s social status, the design of the irori varied significantly. For those of lower classes, an irori might have been a simple pit dug directly into the dirt floor, partially filled with sand and ash, and edged with stones or timber. Conversely, higher-class households boasted irori constructed around a raised floor, adorned with edging crafted from wood, metal, or occasionally stone.

Among the lower classes, the irony served as the focal point of everyday life, where meals were shared and informal visitors entertained. In contrast, upper-class households might have boasted multiple irori, including some in kitchens or tea houses attached to the main residence.

Whether marveling at the elegance of Heian Period dolls or relaxing to the rustic charm of a traditional hearth, Saiko Iyashi-no-Sato Nenba allows you to immerse yourself in a few of the timeless traditions of Japan's cultural heritage.

Terms:

ブンブンセミ (bunbun-semi): Cicada spinner whistle
うぐいす笛 (uguisu-fue): Japanese warbler whistle
雛祭り (Hinamatsuri): Doll's Day or Girls' Day
鉄瓶 (tetsubin): Japanese cast iron kettle
囲炉裏, 居炉裏 (irori): a traditional Japanese sunken hearth fired with charcoal
自在鉤 (jizaikagi): pothook—an iron rod within a bamboo tube – used for raising or lowering a suspended pot or kettle by means of an attached lever which is often decoratively designed in the shape of a fish.

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Seiryutei Tea House

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Nenba Village: Where Tragedy Led to Cultural Renewal

Location: Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi Pref., Japan

Timestamp: 11:29・2024/03/20

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP

63 mm ISO 100 for 1/20 sec. at ƒ/8

Nenba Village, also known as "Saiko Iyashi-no-Sato Nenba," stands as a testament to resilience, nestled in Minamitsuru Village on the western shores of Saiko Lake in Yamanashi Prefecture.

Originally known as Ashiwada Village, it flourished as a center for the silkworm industry, with the distinctive feature of glass windows on the second floors of its thatched-roof homes, where silkworms were diligently raised for their silk.

Tragedy struck on September 25, 1966, when a devastating mudslide, triggered by the relentless rains of Typhoon No. 26, cascaded down the mountain, engulfing the entire village in a sea of mud.

The magnitude of the catastrophe prompted a massive rescue operation, with over 16,000 personnel from the Self-Defense Forces tirelessly searching for survivors until October 7th.

Despite their efforts, the toll was grim: 94 lives lost, with 13 souls never to be found. The grim aftermath saw Lake Saiko become an unexpected resting place for both human and animal victims, with many cows tragically buried in the mud.

Decades later, amidst the distant echoes of tragedy, the villagers rallied to resurrect their once-thriving community. In 2006, the transformation began with the establishment of an open-air museum, initially comprising a handful of restored structures.

Today, visitors can wander through approximately 20 meticulously reconstructed thatched-roof houses, each serving a unique purpose as souvenir shops, restaurants, sweet shops, craft exhibits, and museums. Notably, in 2011, the former main house of the Watanabe family which is nestled in the northwest corner of the village, earned recognition as a national registered Tangible Cultural Property, anchoring the village's historical significance.

One such enchanting spot within the village is the traditional Seiryutei Tea House (see photo). Seiryutei Tea House, once a humble abode from the Edo Period, now invites visitors to savor the essence of Japanese hospitality with a tantalizing array of delicacies. From Japanese matcha sweets to homemade soy milk pudding and sweet rice dumplings (dango), the menu offers a delectable journey through local flavors. Additionally, guests can indulge in light meals, featuring seasonal vegetable curries crafted from freshly harvested produce sourced from nearby fields.

Entry to the museum is affordably priced at 500 yen, with ample free parking nearby. The museum's allure transcends borders, drawing a diverse array of tourists, with over 80% hailing from overseas, according to a local shop owner.

In conclusion, Nanba Village stands as a testament to the resilience of the human spirit, where tragedy has been transformed into triumph through community effort and preservation. As you traverse the stone and dirt paths and explore the quaint thatched-roof houses, you're not just witnessing history—you're becoming a part of it.

- 茶処: chadokoro > tea house

- 青龍亭: Seiryutei > Name of shop

- 旧渡辺家住宅主屋: Kyu-Watanabe-ke Jutaku Shuoku

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Ryugu Cave

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From Desolation to Renewal: The Resilience of Nature in the Dragon Cave and Aokigahara-Jukai Forest

Location: Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi, Japan

Timestamp: 10:48・2024/03/20

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP

28 mm ISO 100 for 0.4 sec. at ƒ/10

Exploring the wide gaping mouth of the Dragon Cave (竜宮洞穴・Ryugu-Doketsu) provided me with an opportunity for intimate observation of the lava rock texture, evoking a profound appreciation for the awesome power of Mother Nature. Centuries-old hardened lava slowly eroded by the elements offers a vivid glimpse into the geological history of the region. The colors and textures of the rock bear witness to the complex interplay of minerals, gasses, and temperatures during the Jogan eruption of Mt. Fuji in 864 CE.

In stark contrast to the purplish-black and dark gray tones of the lava rock, which once symbolized a smoldering apocalypse, the landscape now teems with life. Varied tones of green moss and lichen adorn the rocky terrain, their presence signaling the gradual transformation from desolation to renewal. The once-barren land has given rise to the lush expanse of the Aokigahara-Jukai Forest, a testament to nature's resilience and capacity for regeneration.

As the forest flourished, so too did its inhabitants. Asian black bears, deer, foxes, boars, Japanese minks, and an array of bird and insect species now call this sanctuary home. Thanks to restrictions on tourist access and limited development, the forest remains a haven for biodiversity, attracting nature enthusiasts and researchers alike.

For those inspired to explore this remarkable landscape, Google Maps links and additional resources in English are available for further reading and planning (see below). The Dragon Cave and its surrounding environs stand as a testament to the enduring power and beauty of the natural world, inviting visitors to immerse themselves in its wonders.

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Senoumi Shrine

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Journey into Myth and Legend: Discovering Senoumi Shrine at Ryugu Cave

Location: Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi, Japan

Timestamp: 10:36・2024/03/20

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP

28 mm ISO 100 for 2.0 sec. at ƒ/10

Located at the mouth of Ryugu Cave, the Senoumi Shrine is just one example of ancient reverence for nature and mythology in Japanese culture. Enshrined within the shrine is Toyotamhime-no-Mikoto, revered as both a goddess of rain and safe childbirth.

The name "Ryugu," translating to "dragon palace," is steeped in local legends portraying it as the abode of a water deity manifested in the form of a dragon. Historical records, dating back to 907 CE, recount a time of famine where prayers were offered at the cave's entrance, beseeching for favorable weather to ensure a bountiful harvest.

Stretching approximately 96 meters (315 feet) into the earth, the lava-formed cavern is believed to reach Lake Sako. Note that entry beyond the shrine is strictly prohibited due to the risk of collapse.

Nestled within the lush Aokigahara-Jukai Forest, reaching the cave from Tokyo is a journey of less than three hours via the Chuo Expressway, although travel times may vary depending on traffic. Alternatively, visitors can opt for a scenic bus ride, disembarking at the Ryugu-Doketsu Iriguchi Bus Stop, a mere 6-minute walk from the shrine.

Touted in Japanese media as a "power spot," Senoumi Shrine is believed to be a focal point of spiritual energy and healing properties, its significance intertwined with the surrounding natural landscape and historical context.

Despite the shrine’s physical size and being off the beaten path of most tourists, the shrine hosts the annual Ryugu Festival on August 2nd, a vibrant celebration featuring floating lanterns and a spectacular fireworks display over the tranquil waters of nearby Lake Saiko.

竜宮洞穴・Ryugu-Doketsu: Dragon Cave

剗海神社・Senoumi-Jinja: Senoumi Shrine

豊玉姫命・Toyotamahime-no-Mikoto: goddess of rain, water, and safe birth

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Dragon Cave

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Dragon Cave: A Place of Reverence, Pilgrimage, and Sacred Tradition

Location: Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi, Japan

Timestamp: 10:32・2024/03/20

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP

28 mm ISO 100 for 0.6 sec. at ƒ/10

Ryugu-Doketsu, or “Dragon Cave” in English, stands as a testament to the awe-inspiring forces of nature. Designated as a nationally recognized natural monument, its origins trace back to the Jogan eruption of Mt. Fuji in 864 CE. During this cataclysmic event, lava flows engulfed the region, cooling and solidifying over time to form intricate natural caverns through the process of erosion.

Dragon Cave, and several others located throughout the Aokigahara-Jukai Forest are greeted by a display of nature's craftsmanship. Ice caves, where icicles stubbornly refuse to melt even under the summer sun, and rozen lava flows, captured in time, serve as a silent testament to the tremendous power unleashed by the volcano centuries ago.

The mystique of Ryugu-Doketsu Cave, a lesser-known gem, is waiting to be discovered. Nestled amidst moss-covered rocks, this intimate cavern offers a passage to another realm, connecting to a tranquil lake beyond its depths. At its entrance stands a modest shrine, home to Toyotamahime, the Goddess of Water, revered by locals for generations.

Senoumi Shrine, as the shrine is known, holds a special place in the hearts of worshipers who make pilgrimages to this location. Officially registered with the Shrine Agency, its name pays homage to an ancient legend of a dragon god dwelling within the cave. In times of drought, villagers would gather here, seeking divine intervention in the form of rain.

For adherents of the Fujiko sect, dedicated to the worship of Mount Fuji, Senoumi Shrine is more than just a place of worship—it is a sacred sanctuary steeped in history. With roots stretching back to the Edo Period, pilgrims flock to its hallowed grounds, offering prayers and reverence to the mountain that looms majestically nearby.

As visitors, it is our privilege to share in this sacred space. When visiting Dragon Cave and Senoumi Shrine, let us honor the traditions of those who came before us. Show respect to pilgrims in prayer, observing their rituals with quiet reverence. And as they depart, may we pause to reflect on the timeless bond between humanity and the natural world—a bond that finds its truest expression in places like Dragon Cave.

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Aokigahara Twisted Flora

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Twists of Nature: Discovering Aokigahara-Jukai's Beauty

Location: Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi, Japan

Timestamp: 09:39・2024/03/20

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP

88 mm ISO 100 for 0.3 sec. at ƒ/6.3

Nestled on the northwestern flank of Mount Fuji lies the Aokigahara-Jukai Forest, also known as the "Sea of Trees," standing at an elevation of 1,014 meters (3,327 feet). This remarkable forestscape is renowned for its extraordinary display of trees, which twist and contort themselves as they strive to find purchase in the shallow soil covering ancient lava flows.

The challenge for these trees is evident: the thin layer of soil above the hardened lava makes it difficult for their roots to penetrate deeply, leading to unique adaptations. While many trees manage to grow upright, external forces such as wind and snow often twist their trunks or cause them to lean under their own weight.

Adding to the mystique of this landscape is the abundance of moss and lichen, which blanket the jagged edges of the lava rock and soften its contours. These vibrant green accents lend a mystical aura to the forest, enhancing its natural beauty.

The origins of this captivating forest date back to the Jogan eruption of 864 CE, which blanketed the region in lava flows that eventually cooled and solidified, forming the foundation for what would become the Sea of Trees. Despite the thin layer of soil—only about 10 centimeters thick—life found a way. Lichens were among the first organisms to colonize the barren landscape, followed by moss and grasses, gradually building up the soil over time.

What makes Aokigahara-Jukai truly exceptional is its ability to support the growth of trees despite the challenging conditions. The nearby Pacific Ocean plays a crucial role, with ocean winds carrying moisture inland, providing the necessary hydration for moss and, ultimately, the trees themselves.

Predominantly populated by hinoki cypress and southern Japanese hemlock, both evergreen species, the forest presents a spectacle of intertwined roots spreading laterally across the rocky terrain. As trees reach a certain height, their precarious root systems can no longer bear their weight, leading to a fascinating landscape of fallen giants.

This forest, shaped by the direct influence of Mount Fuji, offers a glimpse into nature's resilience and creativity. Even as visitors traverse its designated trails, they are treated to the splendor of an ancient growth forest, where each twist of a tree trunk and each patch of moss tells a story of adaptation and survival.

Increasingly, Aokigahara-Jukai is drawing the attention of nature photographers and fine artists, drawn to its otherworldly charm and the myriad shapes formed by tree roots and moss intermingling with volcanic rock.

In the heart of Aokigahara-Jukai, nature's handiwork unfolds in myriad forms, inviting explorers to uncover the hidden wonders of this enchanting forest.

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Aokigahara-Jukai Forest

Faithful Companion Deep in Moss-Covered Sea of Trees

Location: Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi, Japan

Timestamp: 09:06・2024/03/20

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP

45 mm ISO 25,600 for 1/200 sec. at ƒ/6.3

I explored Aokigahara Forest (elevation 1,014 m / 3,327 ft) nestled on the northwestern flank of Mount Fuji in Yamanashi Prefecture, Japan, accompanied by my border collie for an early morning photo session, evading the crowds that typically flock to the hiking trails later in the day.

Access to the forest is convenient, just a short 2-hour drive via the Chuo Expressway from central Tokyo (depending on traffic). The trailhead boasts ample free parking and is also accessible by bus for those opting for public transportation.

Adjacent to the forest lie the Fugaku Wind Cave and the Narusawa Ice Cave. However, since these attractions charge a fee, prohibit pets, and open later at 9:00 a.m., they were not feasible options for me, considering my early arrival with my border collie.

Formed by the Aokigahara Lava Flow originating from Mount Fuji in 864 CE, the forest floor spans approximately 30 square kilometers (12 sq mi). Over 1,100 years, the lava cooled and solidified, enabling the growth of lichen and moss, creating a unique ecosystem.

The terrain, characterized by thick layers of uneven lava rock, presents a challenge for trees to establish deep roots, leading them to spread outward across the rock's surface, relying on the sparse topsoil available.

A notable feature of the forest is its porous lava bedrock, which absorbs sound, enhancing the solitude experienced within this pristine wilderness.

Locals refer to Aokigahara as Jukai (樹海), or “Sea of Trees” in Japanese, which aptly describes the lush, untouched landscape, fostering diverse flora and fauna. The forest hosts a plethora of mammals, birds, insects, conifers, broadleaf trees, and shrubs, as detailed in its Wikipedia entry.

Beyond its natural allure, the Sea of Trees has captivated folklore and popular culture, inspiring numerous novels, TV shows, and films in Japan. According to local legends, yurei, tormented ghosts, are said to haunt the area.

Regrettably, the forest's association with suicide has attracted sensationalism from traditional and social media, spurring a surge in dark tourism. Such visitors, who typically go off trail and trample the plants and litter the forest with trash, have prompted calls among some locals to close the forest to the public in an effort to preserve the sacredness of the forest.

Fortunately, the forest remains open to the public, inviting exploration of its cultural heritage and appreciation of its natural beauty, a testament to the awe-inspiring forces of Mother Nature.

Visitors are urged to adhere to designated trails, as the forest's landscape makes navigation challenging should you get lost. Moreover, as a national natural monument, the Aokigahara Sea of Trees is safeguarded by the Cultural Properties Protection Act, mandating respect for its preservation and conservation.