Pix4Japan

2024-04-09

O-Jizo-Sama

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Jizo Bodhisattva: A Beacon of Mercy in Ancient and Modern Japan

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:24・2024/04/09

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Just beyond the Niōmon Gate at Gumyoji Temple, I encountered a serene courtyard adorned with small stone statues of the Jizo Bodhisattva. Revered in Buddhism, Jizo is a beloved figure, often depicted as a gentle monk with a staff and a wish-fulfilling jewel.

These statues symbolize his role as a protector of travelers and a guardian of children, reflecting his compassionate nature and the cultural significance he holds within Buddhist temple grounds.

These small stone statues, affectionately known as O-Jizō-Sama or Jizō-san, represent the Buddhist Bodhisattva who has vowed to delay his own Buddhahood until all suffering souls are freed from the underworld. Jizo, often depicted as a humble monk, is revered as a deity of mercy, offering protection to travelers and children.

Throughout Japan, I have seen these statues near cemeteries and roadsides, frequently adorned with red caps and bibs, which symbolize prayers for the safety and well-being of children. Their presence in the Gumyoji Temple courtyard adds to the tranquil and compassionate atmosphere of the temple.

Jizo Bodhisattva holds a special place as the protector of children, particularly those who are stillborn or die young. In Buddhist tradition, these souls are believed to be in a state of limbo, unable to cross the river to the afterlife. They also dress the statues in red caps and bibs, symbolizing their prayers and the protective power associated with Amida Buddha. Beyond safeguarding children, Jizo is revered as a guardian of travelers, pregnant women, and lost souls, reflecting his boundless compassion and care.

In modern Japan, Jizo statues continue to be adorned with red hats and bibs, and are often surrounded by toys. These offerings are made by parents who believe Jizo has healed their child from a serious illness or to honor the memory of a deceased child, helping their soul in the afterlife. These longstanding customs are complemented by the contemporary practice of Mizuko Jizo, where grieving parents purchase small Jizo statues to pray for the souls of their aborted or miscarried children.

This blend of tradition and modernity highlights the enduring significance of Jizo Bodhisattva in Japanese culture, providing solace and support to families in times of deep emotional need.

Glossary

地藏菩薩 / Jizō Bosatsu: A Bodhisattva who will certainly attain Buddhahood, but for a time, has renounced the blissful state of Nirvana (freedom from suffering), and vowing to remain on earth in various guises (reincarnations) to help all living beings achieve salvation.
お地蔵様・地蔵さん / O-Jizō-sama・Jizō-san: An term of endearment among Japanese for the Jizō Bodhisattva.

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Niōmon Gate

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Gumyoji Temple’s Niōmon Gate: A Journey Through Time

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:19・2024/04/09

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The Niōmon Gate (仁王門), originally built during the Edo period (1603-1868), stands as a reminder of the rich architectural heritage that is abundant throughout Japan. Rebuilt during the Edo period, the gate underwent significant repair work in 2002 to preserve it for future generations.

Above the entranceway, just below the eaves, a plaque inscribed with “山應瑞・Zuiōsan” caught my eye. This inscription, written right-to-left as is traditional, is the work of Sasaki Genryu (Sept. 22, 1650-March 28, 1723), a distinguished calligrapher and envoy who served the Tokugawa Shogunate.

Though not visible in the accompanying photograph, the Niōmon Gate houses two formidable statues: the Kongō-rikishi (金剛力士) on the right and the Misshaku-kongō (密迹金剛) on the left. These statues, collectively known as Niō (仁王), are revered as guardian deities, entrusted with protecting the temple's main entrance.

Crafted by a master sculptor from the Kamakura period, these statues are exemplary of the early Unkei style (運慶様), a renowned school of Buddhist sculpture. Dating back to the late 13th century, they hold the distinction of being the oldest surviving medieval works in Kanagawa Prefecture. In 2001, these invaluable statues were meticulously restored to ensure their preservation.

Beyond the gate, stone stairs beckon visitors upward, leading them to the serene grounds of Gumyoji Temple, a place steeped in spiritual tranquility and historical significance.

Glossary

Niō (仁王): The Niō, or "Benevolent Kings," are fierce guardian deities standing vigil at the entrance of Buddhist temples. These powerful figures embody the duality and balance within the universe, and their presence is meant to protect the sacred grounds from evil spirits and negative influences.
Mon (門): Mon (門) is a Japanese term for "gate," commonly used to describe the entrances to various types of buildings, including temples, shrines, homes, factories, and other structures.
運慶・Unkei (1148-1224): Unkei was a preeminent Japanese sculptor of the Kamakura period, renowned for his approach to Buddhist statuary. His work is celebrated for its dynamic expressiveness, heroic spirit, and powerful physicality.

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Gumyoji Shotengai Gate

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Gumyoji Kannon Street Shopping Arcade West Gate

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:10・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter

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Nestled in the heart of Yokohama, the Gumyoji Kannon Street Shopping Arcade, commonly known as Gumyoji Shotengai, is a vibrant testament to Japan's cherished tradition of community shopping streets. Stretching 370 meters (approximately 1,206 feet), this covered arcade connects Gumyoji Station on the Keihin-Kyuko Line to Gumyoji Station on the Yokohama Municipal Subway Blue Line. Dating back to the 1920s, Gumyoji Shotengai is more than just a shopping street; it's a living piece of Yokohama's rich history!

Originally a red-light district with over 30 teahouses, Gumyoji Shotengai transformed significantly over the years. In 1921, the teahouses relocated, and by 1935, the area had evolved into a lively shopping district. Shops selling daily essentials like tobacco and dried goods lined the street leading up to the Gumyoji Temple.

Remarkably, the Gumyoji area escaped the devastating air raids that obliterated large parts of Yokohama and Tokyo during World War II. Post-war, the street adapted to the changing times, with a roof added to shelter shoppers and a pedestrian-friendly policy that prohibited vehicular traffic. The arcade flourished as a pedestrian paradise.

During the 1950s, Gumyoji Shotengai was a cultural hub, home to three bustling movie theaters: the Yurakuza, the Toa, and the Subaru. These theaters, along with a plethora of family-run shops, defined the vibrant community spirit of the area. However, in the past few decades, many of these beloved establishments have closed their doors. Aging owners without heirs to take over have led to a noticeable decline in the number of family-run shops.

Having visited Gumyoji Shotengai regularly for the past 40 years, I cherish the memories of its bustling atmosphere and diverse offerings. Despite the closures and changes, I remain hopeful that this historic street will continue to serve as a cherished venue for community festivals and gatherings, preserving its unique character for generations to come.

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Edo’s Fast Food

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Chiyoda Sushi: A Modern Twist on Edo’s Fast Food

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:08・2024/04/09

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High-quality sushi without the premium prices of a sit-in restaurant, Chiyoda Sushi is a shop to keep in mind. This popular chain specializes in take-out sushi, offering an array of delicious options that won't break the bank.

Chiyoda Sushi began its journey in 1959, establishing itself as a purveyor of sushi by sourcing fresh fish directly from wholesalers at the historic Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo. This direct supply chain ensured that Chiyoda's sushi was not only fresh but also affordable, standing out in a market where sushi was becoming increasingly viewed as a luxury.

In the post-war era, sushi evolved into a high-end dining experience, far removed from its origins. Chiyoda Sushi aimed to change that narrative. Their business strategy was inspired by the Edo period (1603-1868), an era when sushi, known as Edomae sushi, was a common food enjoyed by the general populace. By offering quality sushi at accessible prices, Chiyoda Sushi sought to return to these roots, making this beloved Japanese cuisine available to everyone, just as it was in the bustling days of Edo.

Edomae sushi, which originated in Edo (now Tokyo), was the fast food of its time. It focused on using fresh fish that could be easily and quickly acquired from the bustling fish markets on Tokyo Bay. This included popular varieties such as tuna, bonito, halibut, sea eel, and various shellfish. Given the lack of modern refrigeration, some of these fish were preserved with methods like salting, vinegaring, or marinating in soy sauce. These techniques not only extended the shelf life but also enriched the fish with complementary flavors.

The rice in Edomae sushi was also unique. It was mixed with vinegar, which added a tangy flavor and acted as a preservative. This practice of pairing seasoned rice with preserved fish made Edomae sushi a convenient and tasty option for the people of Edo, contributing to its popularity as a quick, accessible meal.

Fast forward to today, and Chiyoda Sushi continues to honor the tradition of Edomae sushi. It remains a beloved spot for locals, foreign residents, and tourists alike, standing out as a modern-day equivalent of Edo's fast food.

Chiyoda Sushi’s commitment to providing authentic Edomae sushi in a take-out format offers a unique culinary experience. It's a departure from the high-end sushi shops where both the price and the presentation can be as intense as the flavors. At Chiyoda Sushi, you get the same traditional flavors that once fed the busy streets of Edo, all wrapped up to take home and enjoy at your leisure.

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Teal and Red

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Changing Faces of a Teal Storefront

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:06・2024/04/09

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Opened in 2022 by a Vietnamese proprietor, this yakitori restaurant (serving pieces of chicken grilled on skewers) has received mixed reviews.

This rental space has seen numerous businesses over the years. In 2021, it housed a Taiwanese fried chicken restaurant. From 2015 to 2020, a green tea cafe thrived here. Prior to that, from 2011 until 2014, a cosmetics store with a beauty salon enjoyed a successful run.

For me, the shop's teal siding and the stark contrast of the red sign were the main attractions. This vibrant combination caught my eye during this photo shoot!

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Green Tea Shop

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Surviving War and Time: The Enduring Legacy of Hamaya from Groceries to Green Tea

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:03・2024/04/09

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Established in 1928 as a small family-run grocery shop, Hamaya has endured for nearly a century, including surviving the hardships of World War II. After the war, in 1945, it transitioned to specializing in green tea and roasted coffee beans.

The shop has two sections: on the left, they sell green tea, Chinese tea, and tea-related products; on the right, they sell roasted coffee beans.

Most of their Japanese green tea varieties are sourced from Shizuoka Prefecture, the heart of Japanese tea cultivation, offering over 50 varieties to choose from. A closer look at my photo reveals other products, including health-conscious teas, seaweed, teapots, tea utensils, and gift-packaged teas.

In only a few more years, this shop will be celebrating its centennial anniversary. I hope to return to Hamaya and chat with the owners to discuss their plans for the next 100 years!

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Ashina Bento Shop

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Healthy and Delicious: Ashina Bento Shop

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 17:55・2024/04/09

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The Ashina bento shop has been selling homemade Japanese boxed meals, called obento, here at the Gumyoji Shotengai shopping arcade since 1978!

Bento are single-portion take-out meals that are popular for lunches. They can be bought and taken back to your office or factory, enjoyed with little fuss, and require no heating, as they are prepared early in the morning and sold on the same day of preparation.

Bento boxes usually consist of rice with three or more side dishes of meat, fish, or egg, and a variety of fresh, pickled, or cooked vegetables. Ideally, you want to try to make the bento appear vibrant with colors of red, green, or yellow by using a wide variety of vegetables. As a result, the bento meal often includes the five flavors of sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami (savory).

Although many bento boxes sold at convenience stores are mass-produced in large factories, where they might be more likely to use some artificial coloring and preservatives, this shop takes pride in producing every meal onsite. Their meals are free of any artificial coloring and preservatives, ensuring freshness, full flavor, and a healthy meal.

This shop promotes their meals for elderly folks living alone, busy mothers and housewives, workers at local offices and factories, and more. They also sell side dishes that can supplement the family’s main dishes at the dinner table.