Pix4Japan

2023-01-31

Darumayama and Kinkanzan

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

88 mm ISO 100 for 1/160 sec. at ƒ/13

Location: Kinkanzan, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan

Timestamp: 13:04 January 31, 2023

View from Mountain Peak

View of the cities Numazu and Shimizu located on the coast of Suruga Bay in Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan, with a clear view of Awashima Island in the center. If you visit on a clear day, Mt. Fuji can be seen to the north.

This shot was taken from the peak of Mt. Kinkan (elevation 816 m/2,677 ft) in the northeastern region of the Izu Peninsula.

The trailhead to this peak is located near the Daruyama Kogen Resthouse parking lot, which is about a 2.5-hour drive from central Tokyo.

The hike to the peak is not very difficult, but is a bit steep in some sections. There were patches of snow on the trail with several locations becoming quite muddy.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

28 mm ISO 100 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/8.0

Tiny Fishing Port on the Bay

Location: Mt. Kinkan, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan

Timestamp: 12:58 January 31, 2023

View of Heda Port located on the eastern coast of Suruga Bay in Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan. In the far distance lies the city of Shizuoka on the opposite side across the bay.

The climb to Mt. Kinkan (elevation 816 m/2,677 ft) from the nearby parking lot took only about an hour and that was with a heavy backpack full of camera and video gear on a muddy and snowy trail.

If visiting on a warm spring day when the trail is dry, you can easily reach the peak in less than an hour. Just be sure to wear shoes that provide some traction on the soles so as to avoid slipping on rocks.

Bonus tip: Try to visit on a weekday with no crowds and be extra quiet—you might be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of some of the deer that live on these slopes. My dog and I saw two large bucks only 10 minutes from the trailhead!

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

105 mm ISO 100 for 1/320 sec. at ƒ/5.6

Location: Mt. Kinkan, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan

Timestamp: 13:00 January 31, 2023

Border Collie Resting on Mountain Peak

The winds were a bit chilly at the peak of Mt. Kinkan at an elevation of 816 m (2,677 ft), located about 136 km (84.6 mi) southwest of Tokyo.

She has a tendency to run ahead on the trail while I take my time pacing myself one step at a time. Here, she is taking a well-deserved rest after reaching the peak first.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

73 mm ISO 100 for 1/40 sec. at ƒ/13

Location: Mt. Daruyama, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan

Timestamp: 14:53 January 31, 2023

Sunlit Cape and Fishing Port under Cloudy Sky

With the help of a telephoto lens, the peak of Mt. Darumayama offers a clear view of Cape Mihama, which stretches south to north creating the calm and sandy shores of Heda Port located on the eastern coast of Suruga Bay in Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan.

The trailhead to Mt. Darumayama can be easily accessed from the Asebigahara Parking Lot located about 220 meters away on the Nishi-Izu Skyline toll road.

On this photo shoot, my border collie and I hiked directly from Mt. Kinkan to Mt. Darumayama via Mt. Kodarumayama, which took me about 2 hours.

Be forewarned that the trails for Mt. Kodarumayama and Mt. Darumayama include many wooden staircases going straight up the side of the mountain. No special hiking gear is required, but be sure to bring enough water with you since you will work up a sweat climbing all those stairs!

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 2500 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2.0

Classic Chrome film simulation

Location: Mt. Daruma, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan

Timestamp: 14:20 January 31, 2023

Trail to Grass-Covered Mountain Peak

The winding Nishi-Izu Skyline toll road is a popular route for both motor and cycling enthusiasts. At the second curve, you can see the Asebigahara Parking Lot and the trail to Mt. Kodaruma, which if you keep heading north, will take you to the peak of Mt. Kinkan.

This shot was taken on my way up to the peak of Mt. Daruma (approx. 982 m/3,221 ft), which is mostly covered in kuma bamboo grass (kumazasa/Sasa veitchii). The trailhead is at the bottom of the frame near the highway.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 200 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2.0

Classic Chrome film simulation

Location: Mt. Daruma, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan

Timestamp: 14:36 January 31, 2023

Snow-Covered Slopes on the Bay

Looking southwest from the peak of Mt. Daruma (982 m/3,221 ft), we can see northern slopes of nearby mountain ranges where sunlight is unable to reach the landscape and melt the snow.

Further out, rays of sunlight stream through a break in the clouds lighting up a patch of Suruga Bay–the deepest bay in Japan with a maximum depth of 2,500 meters (8,202 ft).

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

45 mm ISO 100 for 1/40 sec. at ƒ/13

Location: Mt. Daruma, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan

Timestamp: 14:50 January 31, 2023

Spotlights on the Bay

The peak of Mt. Daruma (982 m/3,221 ft) is most famous for its panoramic views of Suruga Bay and Mt. Fuji, which lies due west.

On this hike, however, Mother Nature presented me with an alternative view of sunbeams forming “stage lights” on the eastern shores of the Izu Peninsula.

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2023-01-25

Cape Tsumekizaki

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

28 mm ISO 100 for 1/800 sec. at ƒ/18

Sunrise at Beach

Location: Cape Tsumeki, Shizuoka Prefecture, on Izu Peninsula, Japan. Photo taken on January 25, 2023)

Located about 204 km (126 mi) southwest of Tokyo, Tsumekizaki Beach is just one of several attractions in the Tsumekizaki Natural Park, Shimoda, Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan.

It is easily accessible by car with parking only costing 500 yen on weekdays. My border collie and I arrived at the parking lot at 3:00 a.m. after only a 3-hour drive. However, trying to travel here on a weekend during summer might become a 4- or 5-hour drive depending on traffic.

If traveling on a weekend and you don’t have a large dog, you can access the beach by bus from Izukyu-Shimoda Station.

Although most of Japan was facing a major cold front with strong winds and snow on January 25th, the beach was relatively warm and calm!

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

105 mm ISO 100 for 1/30 sec. at ƒ/11

Silhouette of Island and Crashing Waves

(Cape Tsumeki, Shizuoka Prefecture, shot on January 25, 2023)

The view of Tsumeki Island (爪木島) off the coast of Tsumekizaki Beach makes for a nice subject with the morning sunrise creating wonderful golden light aided by low cloud cover over Sagami Bay in the far distance.

This shot is just one of the many beautiful views you can enjoy in the Tsumekizaki Natural Park located in the city boundaries of Shimoda in Shizuoka Prefecture.

If you are into fishing, there are several boats that you can charter to take you out to the eastern side of the island where you can go ashore and try your hand at catching medina, parrot fish, red sea bream, grunt, black snapper, etc., depending on the season.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

105 mm ISO 100 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/10

Coastline and Columnar Joints

Close-up shot of the hexagonal, geometric patterns of columnar joints that formed when lava cooled and hardened after an ancient underwater volcanic eruption that sometime during the past 20 million years when this whole peninsula was still a small number of undersea volcanoes off the coast of Japan.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

48 mm ISO 100 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/4.5

Coastline and Columnar Joints

Close-up shot of the hexagonal, geometric patterns of columnar joints that formed when lava cooled and hardened after ancient underwater volcanic eruptions that occurred during the past 20 million years when this whole peninsula was still a small number of undersea volcanoes off the coast of Japan.

Among many other natural wonders, this location of columnar joints has been included in the Izu Peninsula UNESCO Global Geopark.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

28 mm ISO 100 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/5.6

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 160 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2.0

Classic Chrome film simulation

Towering Lighthouse on Cape

The Tsumekizaki Lighthouse (爪木崎灯台) was built in 1937 and rises 17.32 m (17.32 ft) above ground level and 37.83 m (124.11 ft) above sea level.

The lighthouse is only a 10-minute walk from the Cape Tsumeki parking lot. It’s a flat approach, so even if you have mobility issues, it is still easily accessible.

On a clear day, you can see eight of the inhabited islands that are as far as 10 km (6.21 mi) offshore of the Izu Peninsula and are still accessible by ferry.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 160 for 1/480 sec. at ƒ/2.5

Astia/Soft film simulation

Crashing Waves on the Cape

Cape Tsumeki offers 360 degrees of views from the end of the cape just below the lighthouse with a near 30-meter drop to the sea. Although the strong winds can be a little scary, the cape offers fantastic views of the power and force that Mother Nature can release upon the coastline of the capes that jut out into the Pacific Ocean.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

28 mm ISO 100 for 1/640 sec. at ƒ/11

Tiny Island Off Coast of Cape

This view of Tsumeki Island, as seen from the bluff atop Cape Tsumeki, also shows Oshima Island in the distance, which is approximately 35 km (21.6 mi) offshore from where I took this shot.

Although the Izu Peninsula and its closest islands fall within the boundaries of Shizuoka Prefecture, Oshima Island and the seven other inhabited islands farther off the shores of Izu fall under the administration of Tokyo, which is 100 km north of the islands.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 2500 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2.8

Astia/Soft film simulation

Aloe Flowers in the Shade

Cape Tsumeki in the city of Shimoda on the Izu Peninsula is probably best known for its tall lighthouse, panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean from the bluff, and large beds of daffodils and aloe close to the quaint sandy beach nearby.

Unfortunately, I didn’t take any photos of the daffodils on this photo shoot as most had withered either due to the cold, time of year, or the ferocious winds we have had recently. The aloe plants, however, seem much more immune to the cold and strong winds!

To be honest, I had no idea that aloe had flowers! This was a pleasant surprise! I hope to return on another photo shoot to capture better shots of this beautiful flower.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

105 mm ISO 100 for 1/800 sec. at ƒ/7.1

Praying Mantis Sculpture

The Tsumekizaki Flower Park is a botanical garden located next to the parking lot of Cape Tsumeki. There are several wooden objects of artwork and shrubbery pruned to look like objects and animals. In addition, there are various flowering plants including buttercups, daffodils, rape blossoms, tulips, daisies, anemones, scarlet sage, and sunflowers.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

45 mm ISO 100 for 1/200 sec. at ƒ/5.0

Botanical Garden & Greenhouse

The Tsumekizaki Flower Park includes a greenhouse where you can appreciate tropical fruits and subtropical plants such as bananas, papaya, bougainvillea, and pandanus (screw pine or screw palm).

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

31 mm ISO 250 for 1/160 sec. at ƒ/11

Beach along Coastal Trail

Crossing to the other side of the Tsumekizaki Flower Park, there is a small gate hidden from view from overgrown grass and shrubbery where you can access a foot trail called the Suzaki Promenade, which that extends along the coast for about 2.7 km (1.67 mi) to the other side of the cape in the fishing village of Suzaki.

The trail starts out flat, but quickly evolves into lots of stairs going up and down along the coast and a few wood-plank bridges crossing over steep crevices.

At the beginning of the promenade is this quaint little beach in Tanoura Cove. I love the contrast of soft brownish sand and lovely greenish blue shallow waters.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
105 mm ISO 100 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/5.6

Lighthouse Overlooking Rocky Coast

The Tsumekizaki Lighthouse, located at the end of Cape Tsumeki on the western coast of the Izu Peninsula offers protection to ships sailing into Tokyo Bay.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

80 mm ISO 200 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/11

Lighthouse Overlooking Rocky Coast of Tokyo Bay

This scene of the Tsumekizaki Lighthouse caught my eye as it shows a cargo ship sailing out to sea from Tokyo Bay under the watchful eye of the lighthouse. The area around this cape is extremely dangerous as many low/flat rocks are hidden below the waterline during high tide.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

105 mm ISO 320 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/11

Lighthouse & Crashing Waves

This scene of the Tsumekizaki Lighthouse illustrates the winds blowing from offshore and clashing with waves crashing onshore.

Great conditions for shooting seascapes since I don’t have to worry about sea spray hitting my lens and gear!

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 160 for 1/340 sec. at ƒ/2.2

Astia/Soft film simulation

Fishing Village

This small fishing port is home to both commercial and chartered fishing boats in a cove where the local villagers live in houses that are densely packed in steps on the slopes facing the sea.

The cove was an active port-of-call between Edo (current-day Tokyo) and western Japan during the Edo Period (1603 to 1867) when ships needed to wait for favorable winds.

The winds were incredibly strong during this photo shoot, but this quaint little cove offered protection from easterly winds allowing for calm waters despite the crashing waves just outside the cove.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 160 for 1/350 sec. at ƒ/2.2

Astia/Soft film simulation

Historic Port

This small fishing port has a history dating back to the Edo Period (1603 to 1867). Just outside the seawall of this fishing port are old quarry sites where blocks of stone were removed for use in building Edo Castle in 1547. Remnants of Edo Castle can still be seen today in central Tokyo at the Imperial Palace.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 160 for 1/300 sec. at ƒ/2.2

Astia/Soft film simulation

Volcanic-Formed Island

On the opposite side of Suzaki Cove, we have a clear view of Ebisu Island. A 10-minute walk around this island offers fantastic views of the ocean, the Izu shoreline, and beautiful geological formations. Visitors can also visit a lighthouse and a small Shinto shrine located at the top of the island.

I hope to visit this island on my next photoshoot to this region.

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2023-01-17

Samukawa Shrine

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 3200 for 1/10 sec. at ƒ/11

Vilvia/Vivid film simulation

Purification Fountain before Visiting Shrine

Almost every Shinto Shrine has a “temizuya” (手水舎), which is a small roofed pavilion with a fountain of water where visitors wash their hands and rinse their mouths to purify oneself before entering the holy space of the shrine grounds.

At Samukawa Shrine, however, they use the reading of “temizusha” for 手水舎 instead of temizuya. This shot shows how large the pavilion is, which reflects the need to accommodate the nearly 2 million visitors to the shrine every year.

During my visit to Samukawa Shrine, I saw vehicle license plates from all over the Tokyo Metropolitan area including Saitama, Chiba, Kanagawa, and Shizuoka Prefectures! Clearly this shrine is well known far beyond the borders of the local farming and industrial community surrounding the shrine.

The shrine is in a class of its own in that it is one of the few major shrines in Japan that has been visited by a few members of the imperial family where they have planted commemorative trees during their visit.

Each tree is well looked after and placards are easily visible next to pathways where inscriptions state which member of the imperial family visited the shrine, when the tree was planted, and a short message from said family member.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 3200 for 1/160 sec. at ƒ/11

Vilvia/Vivid film simulation

Shrine Gate with Paper Float Display

The main gate to Samukawa Shrine is named Shinmon Gate (神門). The gate itself is relatively new having been built in 1993. What I find impressive is how they were able to find craftsmen and artisans who still have the skill and knowledge to build such a structure that appears no different from similar gates dating back hundreds of years.

In this shot, we are able to enjoy the view of Geishun Nebuta—a large paper float inspired by the moving floats paraded at night in the streets of Aomori city during the summer Nebuta Festival.

Each year, Samukawa Shrine commissions the creation of a float by Nebuta masters in Aomori. Then in late December, the paper float is mounted to the upper portion of the gate and displayed for about 2 months to welcome visitors and the new year.

This year’s design expresses hopes for peace in an unstable world of wars, an end to the pandemic, bountiful harvests, successful pregnancy, and safe childbirth.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 3200 for 1/200 sec. at ƒ/11

Astia/Soft film simulation

Stone Lion-Dog Statue

The komainu (狛犬) of Samukawa Shrine consists of the standard pair of lion-like dogs used to protect the shrine and shrine visitors by warding off evil

This shot is of the komainu on the right side of the shrine’s main gate, which was carved from stone and presented to the shrine in 1994.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 3200 for 1/55 sec. at ƒ/11

Astia/Soft film simulation

Shrine on Clear Winter Day

In this shot, I tried to capture the beautiful architecture of the shrine from under the eaves of a covered wall surrounding the courtyard of Samukawa Shrine in the sleepy rural town of Samukawa, in Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan.

The main structure is this shot is the haiden (拝殿), or worship hall, which is where visitors approach to offer prayers or make a wish after tossing some coins as a monetary offering into the saisenbako (賽銭箱), or offertory box.

The courtyard of a shrine is called a keidai (境内), and the wall surrounding such a courtyard is called a tamagaki (玉垣).

At Samukawa Shrine, the tamagaki is roofed with lanterns hanging from the rafters, and extends completely around the courtyard making it very convenient to visit the shrine even on a rainy or snowy day.

From under the roof of the tamagaki, there is a ramp leading up to the front of the haiden making access very easy for the elderly, mothers with baby strollers, or visitors using wheelchairs.

It is not always easy for many structures built hundreds of years ago to implement barrier free access, but Samukawa Shrine has done a good job of making the shrine accessible to all, which I think is partially due to it being located on a large plot of flat land surrounded by suburban homes and farmland.

Back to the courtyard, if you look closely at the hanging lantern on the left, you can see a version of the chrysanthemum seal, which is almost identical to the crest used by the emperor and the imperial family. The symbol is also the national seal of Japan and is used on the front cover of Japanese passports.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 160 for 1/70 sec. at ƒ/2.0

Provia/Standard film simulation

Shrine Main Hall Architecture

This unconventional shot aims to illustrate the beautiful architecture of Samukawa Shrine located in Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan.

By viewing the shrine at this angle, I hope to illustrate the use of metal fittings that are placed on the ends of rafters that extend out to the edge of the eaves and at the base of pillars.

Such fittings are often made of iron, copper, or gilt bronze, and are not only decorative, but also help to protect the ends of structural elements from weathering.

The earliest written records show that Samukawa Shrine was rebuilt in the year 727. The shrine structures predating the current shrine were rebuilt in 1927 after the Great Kanto Earthquake. The current structures were rebuilt in October 1997 using hinoki timbers (Hinoki cypress, Chamaecyparis obtusa) that were sourced from Mt. Ontake in Nagano Prefecture.

It is only natural for a shrine to be built from native trees, with hinoki being the number one choice for many temples and shrines for spiritual reasons in addition to structural and natural insect-repelling advantages of the wood.

Although Samukawa Shrine was becoming a bit worn and needed repairs, dismantling a shrine and rebuilding it with new timbers and fittings is not that uncommon regardless of the shrine’s condition.

With the fast pace of advances in technology, it is all too easy for centuries-old skills to become lost and forgotten. This process of rebuilding ensures that the skills and know-how of craftsmen and artisans in various fields of carpentry, sacred treasures, apparel, etc., will be passed on from generation to generation.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 160 for 1/300 sec. at ƒ/2.8

Astia/Soft film simulation

Paper Fortune Wrapped on Straw Rope

A popular activity when visiting a shrine or a temple is to pick a random omikuji (御神籤/おみくじ), which is a small paper with a fortune written on it.

Should you acquire an unlucky fortune, you can either take it home with you and hope for the best while keeping a watchful eye out for whatever misfortune might befall you, or you can take the unlucky omikuji and tie it to a straw rope, metal rack, or the branches of a pine tree on the shrine grounds in hopes that the bad luck will remain with the omikuji and not follow you home.

In this shot, the omikuji likely had a bad fortune, and the bearer would rather leave the fortune behind at the shrine for proper disposal in hopes of minimizing their chances of succumbing to misfortune in their daily life.

If you look closely, you can see a karakusa pattern (唐草模様) on the omikuji. Although this pattern is often associated with burglars in modern Japanese culture, this auspicious pattern is originally based on the stems and leaves of intertwined vines, which represent vitality, prosperity, and longevity.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 160 for 1/70 sec. at ƒ/2.2

Velvia/Vivid film simulation

Japanese Cypress Hinoki Torii Gate

There are three huge torii gates leading up to the Samukawa Shrine. The first one, Ichi-no-Torii, is 850 m from the shrine. The second one, Ni-no-Torii, is 240 m from the shrine. Finally the third one, San-no-Torii, is located at the entrance grounds of the Samukawa Shrine as shown in this shot.

Kamiike-bashi (Kamiike bridge) is made of stone and stands next to Kamiike pond to the right of the bridge. The bridge was rebuilt in 2022 due to decay.

The San-no-Torii was rebuilt with Japanese cypress (hinoki) in 1990 to celebrate the 2,650th anniversary of the accession of Emperor Jinmu, who is the legendary first emperor of Japan and founder of the imperial dynasty.

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2023-01-02

Enoshima Island Hatsumode

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

48 mm ISO 100 for 50 sec. at ƒ/16

Torii Gate and Bamboo

(Enoshima Island, Kanagawa Pref., Japan)

This torii gate is the first major landmark you come across as you make your approach up the narrow alley of shops that lead to the large set of stairs that take you up to the top of the island and all of its various shrines.

As is normal anytime of year, the torii gate is decorated with a straw or hemp rope called shimenawa with white zigzag folded rice paper called shide attached to the rope.

This shot was a 50-second exposure, so naturally, the shide and upper portions of the bamboo grass were moving in the wind resulting in blurry shots.

The bamboo are a symbol of strength and prosperity, and in this case are used to ward off evil during festivals, such as during New Year’s Day.

This particular gate is a bit unique in that it is made of a bronze or copper material and if you look closely, it has beautiful metal work of dragons and other traditional motifs.

Capturing a shot of this shrine is nearly impossible during the day time as so many tourists want to have their picture taken in front of the gate. To avoid the crowds, I arrived here at 5:00 a.m. several hours before sunrise.

The plaque at the top center of the gate is using a very old fancy script that is hard to read, but says “Enoshima Daimyo-Jin” (Enoshima Daimyo Shrine) and was originally constructed of wood in in 1747 for Enoshima Benzaiten worship.

The gate was later reconstructed in 1821. Names of the donors who helped finance the gate are inscribed onto the pillars with the names of modern donors being added to the columns even now.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

68 mm ISO 100 for 60 sec. at ƒ/22

Shopping Street to Shrine

Shot taken halfway up Benzaiten Nakamise-dori Street where you get a peek of the large vermilion torii gate where visitors begin their ascent to the shrines, temples, and gardens atop Enoshima Island in Fujisawa, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan.

This long, narrow street begins with the bronze torii gate (see previous post) and ends at the huge vermilion torii gate you can see in this shot.

The street is lined with many old mom-and-pop shops selling traditional Japanese dishes, fresh seafood, snacks, drinks, and souvenirs. There are also ryokan (traditional Japanese-style inns), western hotels, onsen (hot spring baths), and several narrow alleyways leading to small beaches and coves.

The term “Nakamise-dori” is actually the name of any street close to a shrine or temple that has come into being to serve the needs of visitors, tourists, and parishioners of temples and shrines since ancient times. This street, like many Nakamise streets, still retains its retro vibes, and hasn’t changed much since my first visit over 30 years ago.

This shot was taken at 5:30 in the morning, and even then, I had to wait for a clear shot as a newspaper delivery bike was buzzing by and New Year’s holiday visitors were already starting to make their way to the shrines atop the island.

On a normal weekend, the street is packed with both local visitors, tourists from outside of the prefecture, and foreign tourists from all over the world. The island is only a 60- or 70-minute train ride from Tokyo making it an easy and affordable destination for a one-day excursion.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

37 mm ISO 100 for 30 sec. at ƒ/29

Enoshima Grand Torii Gate

At the end of the Benzaiten Nakamise-dori Street, the Grand Torii gate of Enoshima Shrine will quickly come into view.

The vivid, vermilion lacquered torii is the gateway to the large Enoshima Shrine complex that consists of three main shrines located at the top of a winding set of stairs.

The original vermilion torii gate was built 1805, and rebuilt in 1936 as a gift from Toshiko Hayashi–the headmistress of the Yamada School of Koto (a Japanese half-tube zither instrument that has thirteen strings made of twisted silk), which was founded sometime between 1781 and 1801.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

28 mm ISO 100 for 1 sec. at ƒ/22

Gatehouse to Shrine

Zuishinmon, the gatehouse at the top of the first set of stairs, just past the grand torii gate, is modeled after the mythical Dragon King Castle (Ryugu-jo) that is depicted in the Japanese folktale “Urashima Taro.”

The kanji characters used for Zuishinmon (瑞心門) literally mean “pure” + “heart” + “gate” and named as such in hope that the hearts of visitors will be purified as they pass through the gate as they approach the shrines atop the island.

In this shot, we can also enjoy the sight of chochin paper lanterns that have been put out for the New Year’s holidays and used to light up the winding stairs leading to the top of the island.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

28 mm ISO 100 for 2 sec. at ƒ/16

Main Shrine atop Enoshima Island

Hetsumiya (辺津宮), is the main shrine atop Enoshima Island. The first structure was built in 1206 under direction of the third shogun during Kamakura Period (1185–1333).

As is the case with many shrines and temples in Japan, the shrine was rebuilt or renovated many times over the past 1,000 years with the current building having been renovated in 1976.

During the Kamakura Period, the shrine was visited by samurai warriors to pray for victorious battles. However, during the much more peaceful Edo Period (1603-1867), the shrine became associated with praying for prosperity, healing of illnesses, safe childbirth, and safe travels.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

80 mm ISO 100 for 1/15 sec. at ƒ/29

First Sunrise of the New Year

Catching the first sunrise of the new year in Japan dates back to ancient ceremonies of nobility during the Heian Period (794 to 1185). During the Meiji Period (1868 to 1912), the observance of the first sunrise spread to the common people and continues today.

Hatsuhinode (初日の出), the first sunrise of the new year, is enjoyed on the morning of January 1st often after many people have visited shrines or temples to pray for health and prosperity in the new year.

For some people who might be too busy on the 1st or need some time to rest, going out to catch the sunrise on the 2nd instead is a nice option if you want to avoid the huge crowds or need to accommodate for extra travel time to one’s hometown for the holidays.

In this shot, I waited for my first sunrise of the year on the northeastern shore of Enoshima Island just as a fishing boat was setting sail.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
88 mm ISO 100 for 1/200 sec. at ƒ/11

Mt. Fuji Across the Bay

On a clear day, you can catch a view of Mt. Fuji on the other side of Sagami Bay from the western shore of Enoshima Island.

According to visibility records maintained by the city of Fuji in Shizuoka Prefecture, you’ll have the best chance of seeing Mt. Fuji in its entirety between November and February.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

68 mm ISO 100 for 1/200 sec. at ƒ/11

Vermilion Bridge and Mt. Fuji

Following along the footpaths atop Enoshima Island, you will reach the furthermost western side of the Island. At the bottom of a steep set of stairs near the water is a newly restored pedestrian overpass called Iwayabashi Bridge (岩屋橋) that allows visitors to more easily access the Iwabashi Caves where you can find statues and deities dating back to the year 552.

Photographs from the Meiji Period (1868 to 1912) show a wooden bridge leading to the caves. An unsightly concrete bridge with a chain link fence was in use until a rockfall accident caused the bridge to be closed in 1971 for 22 years.

A new bridge was opened in 1993 but later destroyed when the combination of a high tide and storm surge from Typhoon Lan hit the region in 2017. The current bridge has proper railings, can be lit up at night during festivals, and is painted a lovely vermilion in tune with most of the other bridges on the island.

Although the caves are the main attraction on this side of the Island, you can also enjoy a lovely view of Mt. Fuji across the bay on a clear day.

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Katase-Suwa Shrine

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 3200 for 1/10 sec. at ƒ/2.0

Classic Chrome film simulation

New Year’s Decorations at Japanese Shrine

(Fujisawa, Kanagawa Pref., Japan)

Founded in 723, Katase Suwa Shrine was rebuilt in its current location in 1347 in Fujisawa, a coastal town in Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan.

This shot illustrates a typical Shinto shrine all decked out for the New Year’s festivities:

- stone lanterns, a torii gate, a temizuya where you wash your hands before approaching the shrine, chochin paper lanterns with the names of the shrine or names of devoted parishioners (both individual and corporate), and paper placards announcing the shrine is open for hatsumode (初詣)--the new-year festivities where locals visit the shrine to pray for a healthy and prosperous new year.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/13 sec. at ƒ/2.0
Provia/Standard film simulation

Torii Gate and Bamboo
(Fujisawa, Kanagawa Pref., Japan)

The long rows of pink lanterns cast a pink glow on all of the shrine grounds reminiscent of the cherry blossom season, which is why I pulled my car over and stopped to explore this shrine at 3:30 in the morning.

Torii gates are typically decorated with just the shimenawa straw rope with paper shide hanging from the rope. During the New Year’s holidays and a few other festivals, you can see bamboo tied to the torii gate.

Bamboo can mean a number of things in Japanese culture including strength and prosperity or be used to ward off evil.

Most likely, the bamboo shafts tied to the torii gate in this shot are being used to ward off evil and to ensure strength and prosperity for the visitors to the shrine as they make wishes for a safe and prosperous new year.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter
ISO 3200 for 1/50 sec. at ƒ/2.0
Provia/Standard film simulation

Chochin Paper Lanterns
(Fujisawa, Kanagawa Pref., Japan)

In this shot at Katase-Suwa Shrine, I tried to focus on the two types of paper lanterns (chochin) on display at the shrine during the New Year’s holidays of hatsumode.

I have an affinity for all the different kinds of chochin you can see in Japan, whether they are used at a shrine, temple, ramen shop, bar, pub, festivals, parks, Chinatown, etc.

The main lantern in this shot has the name of the shrine written from top to bottom: Katase | Suwa | Jin | Ja (Katase-Suwa Jinja) and includes the shrine’s crest of three oak tree leaves (side).

The importance of this lantern can be seen in that it has its own little roof. While all of the “lesser” lanterns are pink, have names of individual and corporate sponsors, and are more decorative for festive purposes.

2022-12-20

Hakone

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

28 mm ISO 100 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/4.5

Historical Teahouse

(Hakone, Kanagawa Pref., Japan)

According to a 2008 interview of the proprietor, Tatsuo Yamamoto, the Amazake-chaya Teahouse was established in the early 1600s during the Edo Period (1603 to 1867) to provide relief and refreshments to travelers on the ancient Tokaido Road, a cobblestone “highway” that linked the imperial court in Kyoto with seat of the Shogunate in Edo (modern-day Tokyo).

The interview with Mr. Yamamoto revealed that he had hopes that his son, Satoshi, would take over for him if and when the time was right. Since that interview in 2008, I can happily confirm that Mr. Yamamoto’s son, Satoshi, has indeed succeeded his father in operating the teahouse by the same family for 13 generations!

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

40 mm ISO 100 for 1/13 sec. at ƒ/11

400-Year-Old Teahouse

(Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan)

Amazake-chaya Teahouse has been serving travelers its famous amazake drink for most of its history dating back to the early 1600s.

Their menu is very simple and includes mochi (glutinous rice that is steamed and pounded into a paste) that is grilled over charcoals and coated in isobe soy sauce, uguisu sweet young soy bean powder, or uguisu mixed with black sesame seeds.

The shop’s namesake drink, amazake, is a traditional fermented rice drink. The teahouse has been using the same recipe for 13 generations where no yeast is used, thus resulting in a naturally sweet drink that has no alcohol.

The drink has a texture closer to rice porridge rather than sake, is loaded with lots of nutrients, and is often served or sold at temples and shrines during winter festivals.

Fujifilm X100V (23 mm) with 5% diffusion filter

ISO 3200 for 1/4 sec. at ƒ/2.0

Astia/Soft film simulation

Sunken Hearth at Teahouse

(Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan)

The Amazake-chaya Teahouse has retained its charm dating back to the early 1600s. The entrance still has the hard earthen floor where wooden tables and chairs are made available for guests.

Farther back are the more traditional woven straw tatami mats where guests sit on the mats and enjoy their drinks and food on knee-high tables.

The centerpiece of the interior is the irori (open sunken hearth), which has a unique figure-8 shape (typical irori are square or rectangular) surrounded by beautiful hardwood flooring.

In this shot, you can also see the jizaikagi—a contraption that includes a pothook attached to a rope that runs through a bamboo pole and extends up to the ceiling timber directly over the irori. The height of the pothook can be changed to adjust the temperature of the food or liquid in the pot.

Irori were common in the main living room of traditional Japanese homes where wood, charcoal, or even coal was burned. Upper-class homes would have had an additional irori in the tea ceremony room where smokeless charcoal was used.

Irori also provided homes with some lighting at night, heat for the main room, and could be used to dry wet laundry, cook food, boil water, and to dry fish and fruit.

Smoke from the irori, specifically the tar in the smoke, was also an essential component for preserving the structural integrity of thatched-roof buildings. While the heat from the irori drew moisture from the building’s timbers and thatched roof to prevent rot and mold, the tar from the smoke would coat and permeate the wooden beams and underside of the thatched roof helping to further prevent mold and rot, and was especially effective at repelling pests, and added an extra layer of waterproofing against rain and snow.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

28 mm ISO 100 for 1/200 sec. at ƒ/11

Ropeway Gondola Over Volcanic Vents

(Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan)

Owakudani Valley, a popular tourist site in the Hakone mountains, is occasionally closed for months at a time when there is unusual volcanic activity in the hot-spring resort area located a couple hours southwest of Tokyo.

The Hakone Ropeway carries visitors directly over the volcanic crater that still has active vents spewing hydrogen sulfide and steam, and geothermal hot springs.

Each gondola on the ropeway can carry up to 18 passengers, and on a clear day, passengers can take in panoramic views of Lake Ashi and Mt. Fuji.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

105 mm ISO 200 for 1/125 sec. at ƒ/11

Southeastern Slope of Mt. Fuji

Although Owakudani Valley in Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan, is more famous for its volcanic activity of vents spewing hydrogen sulfide and steam, the peak overlooking the valley offers fantastic views of Mt. Fuji on a clear day.

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6

53 mm ISO 100 for 13.0 sec. at ƒ/20

Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6
53 mm ISO 100 for 13.0 sec. at ƒ/20

Lake Ashi and Mt. Fuji

The Hakone Taikanzan Observatory in Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture, is on the list of Japan’s Top 100 Scenic Spots—a list that was originally compiled by two major newspapers in 1927.

After several visits to this site in 2022, I was finally able to catch a clear shot of Mt. Fuji towering over Lake Ashinoko in the foreground.

Prior to the pandemic, tour buses filled the nearby parking lot and the local city bus made regular stops at the Taikanzan bus stop. I have no idea if and when services will resume, but if you have a driver’s license, driving to the peak is half the fun of visiting this peak, especially if you take the Hakone Turnpike from Odawara.

Note that many online English articles of this mountain peak refer to “大観山” as Daikanzan, which is also how some Japanese visitors will assume the kanji is read. However, the correct name is Taikanzan, which you can see on the sign at the nearby bus stop, and is also the reading used by material provided by both the Odakyu train line and the Izu-Hakone bus timetable.