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Finding Stillness in the Waters of the Kinomata River
木の俣川の流れの中で感じたひとときの静寂
The Kinomata River (木の俣川; Kinomata-gawa) flows south from the steep southern slope of Mt. Megadake (女鹿岳; Mega-dake), dropping from roughly 1,700 m (5,577 ft) down to about 500 m (1,640 ft). This 1,200 m (3,937 ft) elevation loss over a short distance of only 17 km (10 mi) gives the river a surprisingly dynamic character, not unlike rivers such as the Little White Salmon in Washington State, the Highwood River in Alberta, or the Afon Glaslyn in Wales.
Despite its energy upstream, the Kinomata River is also known for its crystal-clear water and remarkably cold temperatures, even at the height of summer. The river falls under the jurisdiction of Nasushiobara City, which has invested heavily in preserving the area while keeping it accessible. Low-cost parking, clean lavatory facilities, and well-maintained trails and bridges make the river approachable for a wide range of visitors from elderly couples strolling under the shade of broadleaf trees to young families seeking a cool, nature-filled escape.
For visitors from the Tokyo area, its relative proximity is another advantage: just 132 km (82 mi) north of the metropolis, it takes about 2.5 hours by car when leaving before sunrise, as I did from my home in Yokohama. The river’s gem-blue color is also a major draw. This striking hue comes from the purity of the water and the way tiny mineral particles scatter the sunlight, producing a luminous turquoise glow. These pristine conditions also support healthy populations of ayu sweetfish (Plecoglossus altivelis), which thrive in clean, well-oxygenated streams like this one.
Near the Kyogan Suspension Pedestrian Bridge, the flow of the river slows noticeably compared to the faster currents upstream. This creates several natural swimming holes where adults can wade shoulder-deep into calm water. I also saw sections where parents felt comfortable letting small children splash around in shallow, gentle currents. These calmer conditions gave me enough confidence to stand midstream with my camera, something I rarely get the chance to do, while my border collie, Dale-chan, happily played in the cool water beside me.
What lingered with me most was not any single feature of the Kinomata River, but the quiet rhythm of the flowing water and rustling leaves. The cool air was a welcome break after weeks of summer heat, and the deep greens of the forest seemed to absorb whatever noise I carried in my head.
A quick note of appreciation to FE Sorensen, who helped me curate this set of photos and offered a few fun observations along the way. She pointed out that the large moss-covered boulder with a tuft of grass on its edge almost resembles a fish, which to my mind’s eye, is a mix between a white catfish and a black rockfish; now that I see it, I can no longer unsee it.
Standing in the cold water with my camera while Dale-chan waded nearby, I felt a kind of stillness that’s hard to find in my day-to-day life in Yokohama. The slower-moving water near the swimming holes, the soft light under the forest canopy, and the subtle shifts in the river’s turquoise color gave me a brief but much-needed sense of reset.
Postscript:
For anyone considering a visit, parking is available from 07:00 to 18:00. The fee is ¥1,000 between April 1 and September 30, and free between October 1 and March 31. Weekends tend to be crowded, and the parking lot fills up quickly. I went on a weekday in midsummer, and even then most of the spaces were taken up mostly by local visitors.
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Finding Stillness in the Waters of the Kinomata River・木の俣川の流れの中で感じたひとときの静寂
A quiet section of the Kinomata River in Tochigi, Japan, where clear freshwater flows gently through lush mountain forest. I photographed this scene while standing in the cool river on a summer weekday, surrounded by deep green foliage and the soft sounds of moving water and rustling leaves. The calm atmosphere and shifting turquoise tones of the river offered a brief but welcome escape from the heat and noise of daily life.
- Location: Nasushiobara, Tochigi Pref., Japan
- Timestamp: 2025/09/02・14:14
- Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
- 53 mm ISO 100 for 0.4 sec. at ƒ/9
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Cooling Off with My Border Collie in the Kinomata River
愛犬と一緒に、木の俣川の清流でクールダウン
The Kinomata River (木の俣川; Kinomata-gawa), its waters icy cold even in midsummer, flows south from the steep southern slope of Mt. Megadake (女鹿岳; Mega-dake) in Tochigi Prefecture, Japan. For Dale-chan, it was a fun escape from the summer heat of our urban home in Yokohama, offering the perfect combination of cold mountain water and wide-open forest scenery.
This stretch of the river includes walking trails on both sides of the shoreline and is a popular destination for locals, especially young families and groups of students enjoying their summer break. On weekends, the riverbank fills with the sounds of children splashing, couples picnicking beneath the trees, and hikers making their way down from the surrounding foothills.
Near the Kyogan Suspension Pedestrian Bridge, which is located about 520 meters (1,700 feet) downstream from the Kinomata-Enchi Kyogan-Tsuribashi Parking Lot, the flow of the river slows noticeably. Here, a series of natural swimming holes have formed: calm, shoulder-deep pools for adults and broad shallows where parents play with toddlers in gentle, ankle-high currents. The water is clear enough to see every stone on the riverbed, softened by the shade of dense summer greenery.
Although the first step into the water was enough to make me gasp, the chill quickly becomes refreshing. I stood midstream with my camera, letting the cold run around my calves while I worked on a few landscape and pet portraits. Dale-chan waited patiently beside me with her ears perked, dripping wet, and periodically seemed to beg me to splash her with more water.
Moments like these are what make photographing Japan’s mountain rivers so rewarding: a blend of natural beauty, quiet forest air, and the simple joy of sharing the scene with my loyal companion.
- Location: Nasushiobara, Tochigi Pref., Japan
- Timestamp: 2025/09/02・13:56
- Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
- 105 mm ISO 1600 for 1/200 sec. at ƒ/5.6
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After the Storm, Kinomata River Falls Silent
嵐の前、静けさに包まれる木の俣川
A storm was beginning to roll into the Kinomata Valley, where the Kinomata River has carved a winding mountain stream through lush vegetation. Fed by frigid waters flowing down the steep southern slopes of Mt. Megadake (女鹿岳; Mega-dake), the river moved gently through the forest, its clarity revealing every stone beneath the surface.
Just before I took this photograph, distant thunder echoed through the valley, sending the other visitors hurrying back to their cars. Within minutes, the riverbanks, shallow swimming holes, and quiet woodlands were left entirely to me and my border collie. The sudden solitude made the moment feel even more special.
Of the three rivers I’ve visited this year (including the Kawamata River and Gosensui River), the Kinomata River has quickly become one of my favorites. Its remote location keeps it far from boisterous crowds, yet it remains easily accessible by car. The shallow, gently flowing water also makes it a safe and enjoyable place for Dale-chan to wade and explore alongside me.
On my next visit, I’d like to come during the rainy season or arrive just after sunrise, before other visitors appear. I’m especially hoping to capture a glimpse of ayu sweetfish (Plecoglossus altivelis), which are said to thrive in these pristine waters.
After enduring weeks of intense heatwaves while making field visits throughout the Tokyo metropolis for my day job, I felt deeply grateful to have a day off and escape to the cooler air of the Nasu Highlands. Exploring one of its narrow, jagged river valleys felt like discovering a small piece of paradise, especially one that I could share with my dog.
I’m also thankful for a chance encounter with a local housewife I met while visiting the Aoki Villa (see my post from Nov. 27), who was out walking her dog. When I asked about dog-friendly spots loved by locals, she warmly recommended this stretch of river. Thanks to that brief conversation, I was able to experience a place I might otherwise have missed.
- Location: Nasushiobara, Tochigi Prefecture, Japan
- Timestamp: 2025/09/02・14:27
- Pentax K-1 II + DFA 28-105mm F3.5-5.6 + CP
- 28 mm ISO 800 for 1/160sec. at ƒ/4
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