Pix4Japan: April 2024

2024-04-09

Gumyoji Temple Belfry

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Resonance of History: Gumyoji Temple's Belfry

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:47・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter

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In the serene setting of Gumyoji Temple, the bell suspended within this traditional belfry holds an historical and cultural significance. Recognized as a Yokohama City Tangible Cultural Property, this cast bronze bell is more than just a relic; it is a testament to the temple's enduring legacy.

The bell we see today was re-cast in 1798 for the third time since its inception, meaning that at least two earlier versions once rang across these temple grounds. While the reasons for recasting remain unknown, one can imagine various possibilities. Perhaps the bells were casualties of natural disasters such as earthquakes or fires. It's also possible they were melted down for war efforts or replaced by a benefactor’s request, reflecting the temple’s evolving history and support over the centuries.

One of the common New Year’s traditions in Japan is participating in the Joya-no-Kane at a local temple. This Japanese Buddhist ceremony involves ringing the temple bell 108 times to cleanse ourselves of the earthly desires accumulated over the year. Each strike symbolizes the removal of these desires, aligning with the Buddhist belief that humans are troubled by 108 earthly passions, which must be eradicated to attain peace.

My most recent Joya-no-Kane experience was at Gumyoji Temple on December 31, 2012. The temple was bustling with visitors in stark contrast to my first encounter with this ritual. That initial experience took place in the late 1990s at a quaint rural temple connected to my family's cemetery. There, amidst local families, we all took turns striking the bell under the watchful eye of the monk, who carefully counted each toll by moving 108 stones from a small bag.

As I reflect on these experiences, the serenity and communal spirit of the Joya-no-Kane ceremony resonates with me. Whether in the crowded spaces of Yokohama or the tranquil rural temples of my youth, the ringing of the bell always marks a meaningful transition, a cleansing moment that ushers in the hope and possibilities of a new year.

Glossary

梵鐘・Bonshō: A large, hanging bell at a Japanese Buddhist temple, which is commonly found at Buddhist temples throughout Japan, and used to summon the monks to prayer and to demarcate periods of time. Instead of a clapper, bonshō bells are struck from the outside, using either a handheld mallet or a beam suspended on ropes.
鐘楼堂・Shorodo: Belfry. A building in which a bell bonshō (梵鐘) is hung.
除夜の鐘・Joya-no-Kane: A Japanese Buddhist event held annually on New Year's Eve where a large bell, or bonshō, is struck at midnight of December 31 for 108 times.

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Evening at Gumyoji Temple's Gate

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A Glimpse into the Past: The Niōmon Gate at Gumyoji Temple

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:38・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter

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The Niōmon Gate (仁王門), originally built during the Edo period (1603-1868), is a testament to Japan's rich architectural heritage. Such gates, which mark the entrance to many temples and shrines across Japan, stand as a symbol of resilience and cultural continuity. At Gumyoji Temple, the oldest Buddhist temple in Yokohama, the Niōmon Gate was meticulously rebuilt during the Edo period and underwent significant repair work in 2002 to ensure its preservation for future generations.

This photo captures the back side of the Niōmon Gate as seen from top of the stone stairs leading to Gumyoji Temple's sacred grounds. As I ascended the steps, I was struck by the serene beauty of the scene. In the soft evening light, the cherry blossoms swayed gently in the breeze, their delicate petals creating a fleeting dance of bright pink against the backdrop of the stone walls. The long, narrow nobori flags, with their vibrant colors and intricate calligraphy, lined the staircase, each one fluttering in anticipation of upcoming festivals and special events.

The Edo period, a time of relative peace and cultural flourishing in Japan, saw the construction and reconstruction of many significant buildings, including the Niōmon Gate at Gumyoji Temple. This era was marked by a deep appreciation for the arts, and the architectural styles of Niōmon gates found at both famous and obscure temples and shrines throughout Japan. This gate's imposing structure, flanked by two fierce guardian statues, serves as a protective threshold to the sacred temple grounds.

Cherry blossoms, or sakura, have long been celebrated in Japanese culture for their ephemeral beauty and their representation of the fleeting nature of life. Climbing the ancient stone steps to Gumyoji Temple, surrounded by these blossoms, I felt a connection to the past and a sense of peace that transcended time as I imagined millions of Japanese before me climbing the same stairs for the past 979 years.

Whether you're a history enthusiast or simply someone who appreciates the beauty of nature and architecture, the Niōmon Gate at Gumyoji Temple offers a glimpse into the enduring legacy of Japan's cultural heritage.

Glossary

仁王・Niō: The Niō, or "Benevolent Kings," are fierce guardian deities standing vigil at the entrance of Buddhist temples. These powerful figures embody the duality and balance within the universe, and their presence is meant to protect the sacred grounds from evil spirits and negative influences.
門・Mon: A Japanese term for "gate," commonly used to describe the entrances to various types of buildings, including temples, shrines, homes, factories, and other structures.
幟・nobori: A Japanese banner consisting of long, narrow flags, attached to a pole with a cross-rod to hold the fabric straight out and prevent it from furling around the rod allowing the banner to always be visible and identifiable.

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Jokoro Incense Burner

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Sacred Smoke and Symbols: The Incense Burner and Crests of Gumyoji Temple

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:35・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter

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In this photo, you can see the large, cauldron-shaped incense burner situated at the top of the stairs in front of Gumyoji Temple. Like when visiting a Shinto shrine, visitors are encouraged to purify themselves first. Near the entrance, you’ll typically find a temizuya or chozuya water basin, where you can wash your hands and rinse your mouth. However, unlike at a shrine, Buddhist temples often feature a jokoro or incense burner as well.

You can waft the incense smoke over parts of your body that feel unwell, with the belief that the smoke has healing properties. Directing the smoke toward your head is thought to bring wisdom and mental clarity. When I visited the temple late in the evening, the incense had already burned out, so I couldn’t capture the serene scene of smoke gently drifting over the temple grounds.

On the front of the jokoro, two decorative crests are prominently displayed, serving as distinctive symbols for the temple. Although I couldn’t verify the exact origins or connections of these symbols to Gumyoji Temple, such crests are typically chosen for several reasons. They may reflect legendary ties to the temple's founding monks, the geographical name of the area, or the family crest of a significant monk. They can also indicate an association with the imperial family. Most commonly, these crests adopt the family emblem of a benefactor who provided land for the temple or supported its construction financially.

The first symbol is a gosan-no-kiri crest, which is a traditional Japanese emblem featuring the paulownia plant. The crest typically consists of three leaves and clusters of flowers arranged in a specific pattern of three, five, and three flowers. The crest also serves as the official seal of the Japanese government, specifically the Prime Minister’s office, the Cabinet, and the executive branch of the Japanese government.

The second symbol is the hidari-mitsudomoe, a triple-tomoe motif that flows to the left. This emblem has been part of Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples since the Heian period (794-1185). Although its origins and meanings are not entirely clear, in Japan, it is often seen on roof tiles' eaves. Resembling flowing water and with the kanji for "tomoe" meaning "eddy" or "whirlpool," it is believed to help ward off fire.

Glossary

屋根付外置香炉・Yanetsuki Gaichi Kōro: This is a compound word describing an incense burner with a roof designed for outdoor placement.
常香炉・Jōkōro: A large incense burner that is typically used as part of a purification ritual where worshippers offer incense and bathe in its smoke before proceeding to the main hall of the temple. This ritual cleansing symbolizes purification of the mind and body before entering sacred spaces.
五三桐・Gosan-no-Kiri: a symbolic representation consisting of three leaves and an inflorescence with 3–5–3 flowers, derived from the paulownia tree. Originally a private symbol of the Japanese Imperial Family, Gosan-no-Kiri is now used as a governmental emblem. It has historical ties to imperial patronage, where it was bestowed upon head temples or given to temples by significant patrons.
左三つ巴・Hidari-Mitsudomoe: A three-tomoe symbol with tomoe spinning in the left direction. In Japanese, the character for tomoe (巴) means eddy or whirlpool.

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Gumyoji Temple

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Gumyoji Temple: From 1044 to Today

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:32・2024/04/09

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In this photo, we can see the main hall (本堂/Hondo) of Gumyoji Temple. The temple was originally founded on March 10, 1044, by the priest Koei (光慧上人/Koei Shonin). The current main hall, however, was rebuilt in 1766 under the guidance of the priest Chiko.

The building still incorporates some of the original materials from the 1044 structure, such as the hand-carved floorboards, beams, and rafters. Remarkably, after 930 years, the temple transitioned from a thatched roof to copper sheeting in 1976. This change likely reduced the labor needed for maintenance, lowered maintenance costs, and, most importantly, provided better weatherproofing and fire resistance.

The banner hanging from the eaves in front of the temple is a Japanese version of the Buddhist flag, featuring broad vertical stripes of blue, white, red, yellow, and green. Interestingly, I have also observed this banner at Shinto shrines, which likely reflects the historical fusion of Buddhism and Shinto traditions. This fusion was commonplace until 1868 when the Meiji government initiated efforts to separate the two belief systems.

Glossary

本堂/hondo: The main hall of worship at a Buddhist temple housing the principal images most revered by the particular sect of the temple.

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O-Jizo-Sama

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Jizo Bodhisattva: A Beacon of Mercy in Ancient and Modern Japan

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:24・2024/04/09

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Just beyond the Niōmon Gate at Gumyoji Temple, I encountered a serene courtyard adorned with small stone statues of the Jizo Bodhisattva. Revered in Buddhism, Jizo is a beloved figure, often depicted as a gentle monk with a staff and a wish-fulfilling jewel.

These statues symbolize his role as a protector of travelers and a guardian of children, reflecting his compassionate nature and the cultural significance he holds within Buddhist temple grounds.

These small stone statues, affectionately known as O-Jizō-Sama or Jizō-san, represent the Buddhist Bodhisattva who has vowed to delay his own Buddhahood until all suffering souls are freed from the underworld. Jizo, often depicted as a humble monk, is revered as a deity of mercy, offering protection to travelers and children.

Throughout Japan, I have seen these statues near cemeteries and roadsides, frequently adorned with red caps and bibs, which symbolize prayers for the safety and well-being of children. Their presence in the Gumyoji Temple courtyard adds to the tranquil and compassionate atmosphere of the temple.

Jizo Bodhisattva holds a special place as the protector of children, particularly those who are stillborn or die young. In Buddhist tradition, these souls are believed to be in a state of limbo, unable to cross the river to the afterlife. They also dress the statues in red caps and bibs, symbolizing their prayers and the protective power associated with Amida Buddha. Beyond safeguarding children, Jizo is revered as a guardian of travelers, pregnant women, and lost souls, reflecting his boundless compassion and care.

In modern Japan, Jizo statues continue to be adorned with red hats and bibs, and are often surrounded by toys. These offerings are made by parents who believe Jizo has healed their child from a serious illness or to honor the memory of a deceased child, helping their soul in the afterlife. These longstanding customs are complemented by the contemporary practice of Mizuko Jizo, where grieving parents purchase small Jizo statues to pray for the souls of their aborted or miscarried children.

This blend of tradition and modernity highlights the enduring significance of Jizo Bodhisattva in Japanese culture, providing solace and support to families in times of deep emotional need.

Glossary

地藏菩薩 / Jizō Bosatsu: A Bodhisattva who will certainly attain Buddhahood, but for a time, has renounced the blissful state of Nirvana (freedom from suffering), and vowing to remain on earth in various guises (reincarnations) to help all living beings achieve salvation.
お地蔵様・地蔵さん / O-Jizō-sama・Jizō-san: An term of endearment among Japanese for the Jizō Bodhisattva.

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Niōmon Gate

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Gumyoji Temple’s Niōmon Gate: A Journey Through Time

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:19・2024/04/09

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The Niōmon Gate (仁王門), originally built during the Edo period (1603-1868), stands as a reminder of the rich architectural heritage that is abundant throughout Japan. Rebuilt during the Edo period, the gate underwent significant repair work in 2002 to preserve it for future generations.

Above the entranceway, just below the eaves, a plaque inscribed with “山應瑞・Zuiōsan” caught my eye. This inscription, written right-to-left as is traditional, is the work of Sasaki Genryu (Sept. 22, 1650-March 28, 1723), a distinguished calligrapher and envoy who served the Tokugawa Shogunate.

Though not visible in the accompanying photograph, the Niōmon Gate houses two formidable statues: the Kongō-rikishi (金剛力士) on the right and the Misshaku-kongō (密迹金剛) on the left. These statues, collectively known as Niō (仁王), are revered as guardian deities, entrusted with protecting the temple's main entrance.

Crafted by a master sculptor from the Kamakura period, these statues are exemplary of the early Unkei style (運慶様), a renowned school of Buddhist sculpture. Dating back to the late 13th century, they hold the distinction of being the oldest surviving medieval works in Kanagawa Prefecture. In 2001, these invaluable statues were meticulously restored to ensure their preservation.

Beyond the gate, stone stairs beckon visitors upward, leading them to the serene grounds of Gumyoji Temple, a place steeped in spiritual tranquility and historical significance.

Glossary

Niō (仁王): The Niō, or "Benevolent Kings," are fierce guardian deities standing vigil at the entrance of Buddhist temples. These powerful figures embody the duality and balance within the universe, and their presence is meant to protect the sacred grounds from evil spirits and negative influences.
Mon (門): Mon (門) is a Japanese term for "gate," commonly used to describe the entrances to various types of buildings, including temples, shrines, homes, factories, and other structures.
運慶・Unkei (1148-1224): Unkei was a preeminent Japanese sculptor of the Kamakura period, renowned for his approach to Buddhist statuary. His work is celebrated for its dynamic expressiveness, heroic spirit, and powerful physicality.

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Gumyoji Shotengai Gate

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Gumyoji Kannon Street Shopping Arcade West Gate

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:10・2024/04/09

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Nestled in the heart of Yokohama, the Gumyoji Kannon Street Shopping Arcade, commonly known as Gumyoji Shotengai, is a vibrant testament to Japan's cherished tradition of community shopping streets. Stretching 370 meters (approximately 1,206 feet), this covered arcade connects Gumyoji Station on the Keihin-Kyuko Line to Gumyoji Station on the Yokohama Municipal Subway Blue Line. Dating back to the 1920s, Gumyoji Shotengai is more than just a shopping street; it's a living piece of Yokohama's rich history!

Originally a red-light district with over 30 teahouses, Gumyoji Shotengai transformed significantly over the years. In 1921, the teahouses relocated, and by 1935, the area had evolved into a lively shopping district. Shops selling daily essentials like tobacco and dried goods lined the street leading up to the Gumyoji Temple.

Remarkably, the Gumyoji area escaped the devastating air raids that obliterated large parts of Yokohama and Tokyo during World War II. Post-war, the street adapted to the changing times, with a roof added to shelter shoppers and a pedestrian-friendly policy that prohibited vehicular traffic. The arcade flourished as a pedestrian paradise.

During the 1950s, Gumyoji Shotengai was a cultural hub, home to three bustling movie theaters: the Yurakuza, the Toa, and the Subaru. These theaters, along with a plethora of family-run shops, defined the vibrant community spirit of the area. However, in the past few decades, many of these beloved establishments have closed their doors. Aging owners without heirs to take over have led to a noticeable decline in the number of family-run shops.

Having visited Gumyoji Shotengai regularly for the past 40 years, I cherish the memories of its bustling atmosphere and diverse offerings. Despite the closures and changes, I remain hopeful that this historic street will continue to serve as a cherished venue for community festivals and gatherings, preserving its unique character for generations to come.

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Edo’s Fast Food

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Chiyoda Sushi: A Modern Twist on Edo’s Fast Food

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:08・2024/04/09

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High-quality sushi without the premium prices of a sit-in restaurant, Chiyoda Sushi is a shop to keep in mind. This popular chain specializes in take-out sushi, offering an array of delicious options that won't break the bank.

Chiyoda Sushi began its journey in 1959, establishing itself as a purveyor of sushi by sourcing fresh fish directly from wholesalers at the historic Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo. This direct supply chain ensured that Chiyoda's sushi was not only fresh but also affordable, standing out in a market where sushi was becoming increasingly viewed as a luxury.

In the post-war era, sushi evolved into a high-end dining experience, far removed from its origins. Chiyoda Sushi aimed to change that narrative. Their business strategy was inspired by the Edo period (1603-1868), an era when sushi, known as Edomae sushi, was a common food enjoyed by the general populace. By offering quality sushi at accessible prices, Chiyoda Sushi sought to return to these roots, making this beloved Japanese cuisine available to everyone, just as it was in the bustling days of Edo.

Edomae sushi, which originated in Edo (now Tokyo), was the fast food of its time. It focused on using fresh fish that could be easily and quickly acquired from the bustling fish markets on Tokyo Bay. This included popular varieties such as tuna, bonito, halibut, sea eel, and various shellfish. Given the lack of modern refrigeration, some of these fish were preserved with methods like salting, vinegaring, or marinating in soy sauce. These techniques not only extended the shelf life but also enriched the fish with complementary flavors.

The rice in Edomae sushi was also unique. It was mixed with vinegar, which added a tangy flavor and acted as a preservative. This practice of pairing seasoned rice with preserved fish made Edomae sushi a convenient and tasty option for the people of Edo, contributing to its popularity as a quick, accessible meal.

Fast forward to today, and Chiyoda Sushi continues to honor the tradition of Edomae sushi. It remains a beloved spot for locals, foreign residents, and tourists alike, standing out as a modern-day equivalent of Edo's fast food.

Chiyoda Sushi’s commitment to providing authentic Edomae sushi in a take-out format offers a unique culinary experience. It's a departure from the high-end sushi shops where both the price and the presentation can be as intense as the flavors. At Chiyoda Sushi, you get the same traditional flavors that once fed the busy streets of Edo, all wrapped up to take home and enjoy at your leisure.

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Teal and Red

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Changing Faces of a Teal Storefront

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:06・2024/04/09

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Opened in 2022 by a Vietnamese proprietor, this yakitori restaurant (serving pieces of chicken grilled on skewers) has received mixed reviews.

This rental space has seen numerous businesses over the years. In 2021, it housed a Taiwanese fried chicken restaurant. From 2015 to 2020, a green tea cafe thrived here. Prior to that, from 2011 until 2014, a cosmetics store with a beauty salon enjoyed a successful run.

For me, the shop's teal siding and the stark contrast of the red sign were the main attractions. This vibrant combination caught my eye during this photo shoot!

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Green Tea Shop

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Surviving War and Time: The Enduring Legacy of Hamaya from Groceries to Green Tea

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 18:03・2024/04/09

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Established in 1928 as a small family-run grocery shop, Hamaya has endured for nearly a century, including surviving the hardships of World War II. After the war, in 1945, it transitioned to specializing in green tea and roasted coffee beans.

The shop has two sections: on the left, they sell green tea, Chinese tea, and tea-related products; on the right, they sell roasted coffee beans.

Most of their Japanese green tea varieties are sourced from Shizuoka Prefecture, the heart of Japanese tea cultivation, offering over 50 varieties to choose from. A closer look at my photo reveals other products, including health-conscious teas, seaweed, teapots, tea utensils, and gift-packaged teas.

In only a few more years, this shop will be celebrating its centennial anniversary. I hope to return to Hamaya and chat with the owners to discuss their plans for the next 100 years!

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Ashina Bento Shop

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Healthy and Delicious: Ashina Bento Shop

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 17:55・2024/04/09

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The Ashina bento shop has been selling homemade Japanese boxed meals, called obento, here at the Gumyoji Shotengai shopping arcade since 1978!

Bento are single-portion take-out meals that are popular for lunches. They can be bought and taken back to your office or factory, enjoyed with little fuss, and require no heating, as they are prepared early in the morning and sold on the same day of preparation.

Bento boxes usually consist of rice with three or more side dishes of meat, fish, or egg, and a variety of fresh, pickled, or cooked vegetables. Ideally, you want to try to make the bento appear vibrant with colors of red, green, or yellow by using a wide variety of vegetables. As a result, the bento meal often includes the five flavors of sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami (savory).

Although many bento boxes sold at convenience stores are mass-produced in large factories, where they might be more likely to use some artificial coloring and preservatives, this shop takes pride in producing every meal onsite. Their meals are free of any artificial coloring and preservatives, ensuring freshness, full flavor, and a healthy meal.

This shop promotes their meals for elderly folks living alone, busy mothers and housewives, workers at local offices and factories, and more. They also sell side dishes that can supplement the family’s main dishes at the dinner table.

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Pokémon and Ito En

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Vending Machines: From Pokémon Collaborations to Disaster Preparedness

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 17:45・2024/04/09

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Japan boasts an impressive array of vending machines, numbering around 2.6 million as of December 2023. In the span of the last four decades, I've witnessed significant shifts in this vending landscape. Notably, there has been a decline in machines vending alcohol and cigarettes, paralleled by a rise in machines offering both hot and cold beverages from a single unit. Among these innovations, my personal favorite is the advent of machines equipped with QR code scanning capabilities, allowing seamless payment through an app on my smartphone.

In my photo, two distinct elements immediately captured my eye: the presence of a Pokémon character adorning the vending machine, and upon closer inspection, the machine's disaster response capabilities.

Firstly, the Pokémon character quickly attracts passersby, drawing attention to a collaboration between Ito En, a prominent Japanese beverage company, and the Pokémon Go game.

Secondly, a conspicuous label on the machine reveals its designation as a “disaster response vending machine.” This designation indicates that in the event of a severe earthquake or other natural calamities surpassing a predetermined threshold, the machine can dispense drinks free of charge, even in the absence of electrical power. Additionally, I've come across information that some machines are even equipped with electronic bulletin boards to transmit disaster alerts and essential evacuation instructions.

While I sincerely hope to never have to utilize the services of a disaster response vending machine, it's reassuring to know that some large corporations are stepping up to make their services and products accessible to society during times of crisis. It underscores a sense of corporate responsibility and solidarity in supporting communities when they need it most.

Glossary:

災害救援・saigai kyūen: disaster relief
自動販売機・jidō hanbaiki: vending machine
災害救援自販機・saigai kyūen jihanki: a vending machine that can be operated manually to disperse products inside the vending machine in the event of a power outage due to a disaster.

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Hamadaya Kimono

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Three Generations of Tradition: Hamadaya Kimono Care Shop

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 17:41・2024/04/09

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Hamadaya, a kimono tailor and cleaning specialty shop, has a rich history dating back to the 1920s when it began as a dyeing workshop. Today, they specialize in the meticulous care and maintenance of kimono garments. Their services include professional cleaning, stain removal, tailoring to fit your body measurements, and various alterations.

With access to a wide range of silk materials, Hamadaya offers not only traditional kimono but also a variety of Japanese-style clothing items reminiscent of kimonos, along with tenugui towels and unique furoshiki cloths. Additionally, they provide a selection of souvenir silk items highly sought after by overseas tourists.

As a family-run establishment, Hamadaya is currently led by its third-generation owner, ensuring a legacy of craftsmanship and dedication to preserving the art of kimono.

Glossary:

手ぬぐい・tengui: A traditional Japanese towel, typically measuring about 90 cm (2.9 feet) x 35 cm (1.1 feet). It is made of flat-woven cotton and often dyed with plain colors or patterns. Tenugui have hemmed long sides and unhemmed short sides, facilitating faster drying through fraying. They are versatile, used for cleaning, drying hands, and for protective or decorative wrapping. During festivals, tenugui are worn as headwear, belts, or used as props.
風呂敷・furoshiki: A traditional Japanese wrapping cloth primarily used for transporting goods such as sake bottles, bento lunch boxes, and gifts of various sizes and shapes. Furoshiki may have hemmed edges and can be crafted from a variety of materials, including silk or cotton for traditional versions, and synthetic materials like rayon, nylon, or polyester for modern adaptations.

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Peko-chan and Fujiya

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From Papier-mâché to Pop Culture Icon: The Enduring Story of Peko-chan and Fujiya Corporation

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 17:39・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter

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② ISO 800 for 1/250 sec. at ƒ/2

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Fujiya Corporation, a century-old family business based in Tokyo, is renowned for its delectable confectioneries and iconic life-size mascot dolls known as Peko-chan, which proudly stand in front of Fujiya chain confectionery stores nationwide.

The company's founder embarked on a pivotal journey to the United States to study Western confectionery techniques and manufacturing processes. Upon his return to Japan the following year, he established a second shop, styled after a soda fountain, where he not only served coffee but also showcased his confectionery creations.

Founded in 1910 in Motomachi, Yokohama, Fujiya began as a modest venture that steadily expanded its reach. By the mid-20th century, it had established over eight new stores across Yokohama and Tokyo, signaling its growing prominence in the confectionery market.

In 1963, Fujiya experienced a significant leap forward with the implementation of franchising, a move that fueled its expansion even further. Notably, in 2010, the company proudly celebrated its centennial anniversary, marking a century of excellence in crafting delightful treats.

Peko-chan, the beloved mascot of Fujiya, made her debut in the 1950s as a papier-mâché doll adorned in traditional Japanese attire—a reflection of post-war cultural norms.

Her endearing expression, characterized by a playful tongue sticking out and a swaying head, captivated the hearts of many. However, her popularity led to frequent handling by fans, resulting in damage to her delicate papier-mâché structure. Incremental repairs became unsustainable, prompting a transition to more durable materials.

Over the years, Peko-chan evolved not only in material but also in her roles. Initially dressed in handmade clothes reflecting contemporary fashion trends, she eventually expanded her presence beyond the confines of Fujiya stores. From corporate ambassadorships to appearances in TV commercials and fashion magazines, Peko-chan became an enduring cultural icon.

In the 1950s, more robust models with wobbling heads were introduced, delighting children with interactive features. Subsequent iterations saw subtle changes, such as blue eyes, inspired by diverse cultural influences.

Fast forward to the 21st century, and Peko-chan's legacy endures. The “Peko-chan Exhibition” at the Hiratsuka Art Museum in Kanagawa Prefecture showcased her nostalgic charm, while the modern mascot—a hardened plastic and enamel rendition—remains a ubiquitous marketing symbol in Japan. Adorned in her trademark yellow T-shirt and red overalls, life-sized Peko-chan dolls continue to greet customers outside Fujiya stores nationwide.

For over 45 years, the Gumyoji branch of Fujiya has been a cherished fixture in the community. If you find yourself in the vicinity, I highly recommend paying a visit to sample their renowned strawberry sponge cake—an exquisite treat that epitomizes Fujiya's commitment to culinary excellence.

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Vintage Signage

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Signs of the Times: Vintage Signage Along Gumyoji Shotengai

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 17:35・2024/04/09

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As I continued strolling down the Gumyoji Shotengai shopping street during my photo shoot, I was captivated by the charm of a yakitori restaurant. Its exterior was designed to evoke the nostalgic ambiance of 1950s Japan, complete with a collection of vintage signs adorning one of its walls.

The first sign, situated in the upper-left corner, advertises Kanko Shirts, a company established in 1854. Originally specializing in the production and sale of cotton yarn, Kanko Shirts transitioned to mass-manufacturing school and work uniforms in 1923. By 1928, the company rebranded as Kanko and launched a nationwide PR campaign, prominently featuring billboards and signboards like the one captured in my photograph. Today, Kanko remains a leading manufacturer of Japanese school uniforms.

In the upper-right corner, the second sign showcases Kakui Cotton, tracing its origins back to 1881 as a cotton wholesaler. Rebranded as Kakui Co., Ltd. in 1971, the company has since diversified its offerings. Today, Kakui is renowned for producing consumer-use cotton puffs, pharmaceutical-grade gauze, and petrochemical absorbents.

Moving on to the third sign, located in the lower-left corner, we encounter White Ball Sauce. Originating in 1899, this sauce was first crafted by the Nomura Food Manufacturing Company, based in the Kanto region of Japan where Tokyo is situated. Inspired by Worcestershire sauce during a visit to the U.K., the company's founder returned to Japan and developed White Ball Sauce to complement the newly introduced Western foods gaining popularity during the Meiji Era (1868–1912). This innovative sauce quickly found its place in Japanese cuisine, catering to the evolving palate of the time.

The origins of the fourth sign (lower-right) trace back to Lion Mosquito Coils, a product manufactured by Lion Chemical Co., Ltd., established in 1885. Lion Chemical Co., Ltd. utilizes dried pyrethrum flowers, which naturally contain insecticidal properties. These flowers are processed into a fine powder and molded into hardened coils. When lit, the coils emit a pleasant incense-like fragrance (aromatic substances) that effectively repels mosquitoes. Over the years, Lion Chemical Co., Ltd. has expanded its product line to encompass a wide array of industrial and household chemical solutions.

With the increasing prevalence of modern electronic screens replacing traditional signboards, I worry that future generations may miss out on the nostalgic charm I've experienced from the signage of my parents’ and grandparents’ eras. The transition to digital displays not only changes the visual landscape and exacerbates light pollution in our cities but also prompts questions about preserving cultural heritage and the enduring significance of physical signage in an increasingly digital world. As technology advances, the once-familiar sights of printed or painted signs may become relics of the past, making current vintage signs even more precious and irreplaceable.

Glossary:

白玉ソース・Shiratama Sōsu: White Ball Sauce. A brand of sauce
菅公シャツ・Kanko Shyatsu: Kanko Shirts—a brand of shirts manufactured by a Japanese school uniform manufacturer.
カクイわた・kakui-wata: Kakei Cotton fabrics
ライオンかとりせんこう・Raion Katori Senko: Lion Mosquito Coils

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Yoroi-Bari Cladding and Gacha-Gacha

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Nostalgic Delights: Yoroi-bari Cladding and Gacha-Gacha Machines in Japan

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 17:30・2024/04/09

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter

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Two blocks west of the east entrance of the Gumyoji Shotengai shopping arcade lies a charcoal-grilled yakiniku shop. Its interior and exterior are meticulously designed to evoke a retro ambiance reminiscent of a Japanese house from the 1950s.

This quaint restaurant has garnered numerous positive reviews for its charming interior, menu offerings, and attentive service. Yet, it's not the restaurant itself that captivated my attention. What truly intrigued me was the striking contrast between the dark, classic traditional wooden “yoroi-bari” cladding and the shiny, late Showa era, gacha-gacha toy capsule machines.

Old wooden houses adorned with yoroi-bari cladding can still be spotted today, both in urban and rural areas. Many of these structures date back to the Showa period (1926–1989), while some have been meticulously restored from the earlier Meiji period (1868–1912) and are showcased in open-air museums.

Yoroi-bari cladding is characterized by grooves cut into the upper and lower portions of each plank, allowing them to interlock with the joints of adjacent planks. This ingenious design not only fortifies the walls against winds, rain, and temperature fluctuations but also provides flexibility during small to moderate earthquakes, allowing the structure to better withstand seismic stresses.

While gacha-gacha toy capsule machines were initially marketed towards children, they have evolved to be cherished by individuals of all ages, including adults, for nostalgic reasons. These machines have gained popularity even among adult tourists from abroad, many of whom were likely introduced to the machines through Japanese anime and manga.

Glossary:

鎧張り・yoroi-bari: A type of traditional cladding, often wooden, found on the exteriors of Japanese houses or other small structures. The term “yoroi” originates from the traditional Japanese armor worn by samurai warriors, consisting of numerous small metal plates laced together with silk or leather cords to provide flexibility and strength. Similarly, yoroi-bari cladding achieves these advantages by overlapping panels using interlocking joints.
ガチャガチャ・gacha-gacha: The term “gacha-gacha” is an onomatopoeic representation of the sound produced by the toy vending machine during the action of hand-cranking the handle to retrieve a toy encased in a plastic capsule.

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Fujikata Tofu Shop

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Tofu Delights: A Taste of Tradition, Innovation, and Community

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 17:18・2024/04/09

Fujikata Tofu Shop

Fujifilm X100V with 5% diffusion filter

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Nestled in the eastern end of the Gumyoji Shotengai, this charming mom-and-pop tofu shop boasts a delightful tradition: crafting fresh tofu onsite each morning. Upon approaching the shop, I was greeted by an array of tofu varieties, each promising a unique blend of flavors and textures, all at pocket-friendly prices.

From the nutty richness of sesame seed paste-infused tofu to the wholesome simplicity of edamame-infused creations, the shop offered a tantalizing selection. Yet, it is their prized silken tofu that steals the show. Renowned for its velvety smoothness and versatility, this delicacy requires minimal preparation and pairs seamlessly with any meal of the day.

Not to be outdone, cotton tofu stood ready for grilling, frying, or simmering, while the savory allure of grilled tofu hinted at its potential in myriad dishes, from sukiyaki to stir-fries.

During a brief chat with the owner's wife, I discovered the rich history behind the shop, which first opened its doors over 60 years ago in Showa Year 37 (1962). As she graciously offered me a sample of their signature silken tofu, I couldn't help but marvel at its delicate balance of lightness and flavor.

Despite its roots in traditional Japanese cuisine, the shop embraces diversity, catering to the tastes of its Korean and Malaysian clientele with popular toppings and accompaniments.

One visit wasn't enough to satisfy my curiosity—or my appetite. Intrigued by whispers of tofu donuts, I found myself drawn back to the shop, eager to indulge. With each bite, I savored the dense, moist texture and subtle sweetness, feeling a surge of energy that propelled me through the rest of my day's photo shoot.

Glossary:

枝豆・edamame: Green soybeans boiled or steamed while in their pods.
絹豆腐 / 絹漉し豆腐・kinudōfu / kinugoshidōfu: Referred to as silken tofu, this type of tofu that is formed without pressing, resulting in a delicate, silky texture., and helps to retain higher levels of vitamin B and potassium content, and served cold with a simple garnish and soy sauce.
木綿豆腐・momendōfu: Referred to as cotton tofu, this type of tofu is broken down and pressed to remove excess water, before re-setting, a process that results in a firmer texture compared to silken tofu, produces a tofu with a higher protein, calcium, and iron content.

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Homareyashuho Wine and Liquor Shop

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Sip the Essence of Spring: Discovering Gumyoji Sakura Beer at Homareyashuho

Location: Gumyoji, Minami Ward, Yokohama, Japan

Timestamp: 17:16・2024/04/09

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The Homareyashuho Wine & Liquor Shop, established in 1932, is renowned for its signature Gumyoji Sakura Beer. Brewed locally since 2010, this unfiltered beer derives its distinctive flavor from yeast sourced from cherry blossoms grown in the nearby Gumyoji Temple grounds. Known for its fruity and robust flavor, the Sakura Beer continues to captivate beer enthusiasts to this day.

As depicted in my photo, the shop's décor mirrors the vibrant ambiance of Japan's cherry blossom festivals, featuring pink displays and lantern shades that celebrate the famous Sakura Beer. These decorations, reminiscent of those found across Japan during the cherry blossom viewing season, contribute to the shop's quaint charm.

In addition to the Sakura Beer, the shop boasts a diverse selection of locally sourced sake, authentic shochu, and awamori. Visitors can indulge in a variety of flavors, all sourced directly from breweries spanning the breadth of Japan. The shop also offers unique non-alcoholic flavored cider drinks for other customers including children.

Whether you're a connoisseur or a casual enthusiast, a visit to Homareyashuho Wine & Liquor Shop promises a delightful experience steeped in Japanese tradition and flavor.

Glossary:

桜・sakura: This term typically refers to cherry blossoms (flowers) but can also refer to the actual cherry trees. In Japanese culture, sakura holds deep symbolic meaning, representing the beauty and transient nature of life.
酒・sake: This term can refer to all alcoholic drinks in general, but in the above context, it specifically refers to Japanese rice wine, which is brewed through a fermentation process using rice, water, yeast, and koji mold.
焼酎・shochu: Shochu is a Japanese liquor distilled from various ingredients such as sweet potatoes, barley, or rice. It typically has a higher alcohol content than sake and is enjoyed in various ways, including straight, on the rocks, or mixed with water or other beverages.
泡盛・awamori: Awamori is a type of shochu that is a specialty of Okinawa, a region in Japan. It is made from Thai-style indica rice and is aged in traditional clay pots. Awamori has a unique flavor profile and is often consumed as a straight drink or mixed with water or ice.